Issues with my brakes...
#1
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From: Boston Burbs
Bikes: Bedford, IF, Hampsten, DeSalvo, Intense Carbine 27.5, Raleigh Sports, Bianchi C.u.S.S, Soma DC Disc, Bill Boston Tandem
Issues with my brakes...
This might be a stupid/noob question so I apologize in advance.
I can't seem to keep my rear brakes adjusted properly and it is kind of driving me crazy. I am pretty new at working on bikes but I'm pretty sure there is nothing I'm missing.
The brakes are Dia Compe G 500 with Dia Compe aero levers.
The caliper itself is tight, I line up the pads a few mm from the rim, pull the cable tight and tighten the nut that clamps on to the cable. Brakes beautifully..for about 20 minutes then I check and each pad is half an inch off the braking surface. I have done this 5 times or so now.
I know I am tightening the cable because it is not slipping, could there be something else causing them to keep loosening up. Caliper no good? Or am I just crazy?
Here are a few pictures for reference.



(mind the crappy front wheel/tire, I got a flat yesterday and just threw a spare on there for now)
I can't seem to keep my rear brakes adjusted properly and it is kind of driving me crazy. I am pretty new at working on bikes but I'm pretty sure there is nothing I'm missing.
The brakes are Dia Compe G 500 with Dia Compe aero levers.
The caliper itself is tight, I line up the pads a few mm from the rim, pull the cable tight and tighten the nut that clamps on to the cable. Brakes beautifully..for about 20 minutes then I check and each pad is half an inch off the braking surface. I have done this 5 times or so now.
I know I am tightening the cable because it is not slipping, could there be something else causing them to keep loosening up. Caliper no good? Or am I just crazy?
Here are a few pictures for reference.



(mind the crappy front wheel/tire, I got a flat yesterday and just threw a spare on there for now)
#5
Banned.
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What you describe is generally a problem when you loosen the cable, then tighten it, and the cable ends, at various points in the route, from the lever to the guides, etc, come out a bit and are not seating fully when you tighten it. Sixty Fiver has identified the most likely place, but check them all from front to rear. This is the time for a "3rd" hand, when you can somehow hold the calipers snug and pull on the cable with one hand, the lever with the other, and make sure there are no "catches" in the motion.
#6
Senior Member
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Yes get a third hand tool or have a friend help you. The bolt does look a little bit stripped. If it is too far gone just use the vice grips/say a prayer and cuss up a storm for it to work.
I give three MFER,MFER,MFER shouts and it often is like saying please and thank you to the velo-gods.
I give three MFER,MFER,MFER shouts and it often is like saying please and thank you to the velo-gods.
#7
Thread Starter
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From: Boston Burbs
Bikes: Bedford, IF, Hampsten, DeSalvo, Intense Carbine 27.5, Raleigh Sports, Bianchi C.u.S.S, Soma DC Disc, Bill Boston Tandem
Thanks guys. I think the bolt was tight enough but I scavenged another and replaced it anyway as it was pretty bad.
I will try to get a third hand to further diagnose as you have suggested.
I will try to get a third hand to further diagnose as you have suggested.
#8
Bianchi Goddess



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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
I agree with sixtyfiver check you housing at the lever. some older (first gen?) Dia Compe lever required a very special ferrule on the end of the housing. pull on the lever and look behind it where the cable comes out and be sure the housing is not pulling through. also you housing looks real short. a third or fourth or a friend is called for.
there is a small trick using the QR but it takes a bit of practice
BTW that is a great looking Delray. I worked on lots of those when I was living in the Quincy area years ago. a bit of elbow grease and some pledge and it will shine up real nice
there is a small trick using the QR but it takes a bit of practice
BTW that is a great looking Delray. I worked on lots of those when I was living in the Quincy area years ago. a bit of elbow grease and some pledge and it will shine up real nice
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#9
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From: Middle TN
Bikes: 2 Centurian Ironman, Rossin Genisis, Greenspeed GT3, Stowaway (wife)
For a third hand I use a small wood clamp that is sold at the do-it-yourself stores for about $4. If you are not carefull you can get the brakes too tight
#10
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From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam
#11
Bianchi Goddess



Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#12
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Middle TN
Bikes: 2 Centurian Ironman, Rossin Genisis, Greenspeed GT3, Stowaway (wife)
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri...5132775&sr=1-1
I think this will take you to the type of clamp that I use. The version I use is on the small side and they can be bought for less than $10 I am pretty sure. Off brand of course. One hand operation both clamping and unclamping. It is a real handy tool for lots of things and worth having in the tool box. The clamping surfaces are soft rubber like material so they won't scratch anthing. The C clamp above will work too but you need to be careful about scratches.
I think this will take you to the type of clamp that I use. The version I use is on the small side and they can be bought for less than $10 I am pretty sure. Off brand of course. One hand operation both clamping and unclamping. It is a real handy tool for lots of things and worth having in the tool box. The clamping surfaces are soft rubber like material so they won't scratch anthing. The C clamp above will work too but you need to be careful about scratches.
Last edited by dit; 10-09-09 at 06:08 PM.
#13
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From: Boston Burbs
Bikes: Bedford, IF, Hampsten, DeSalvo, Intense Carbine 27.5, Raleigh Sports, Bianchi C.u.S.S, Soma DC Disc, Bill Boston Tandem
I think it will clean up nice but the clear coat over the seat tube details is almost gone. Do they still make or sell vintage decals? Not just for the Fuji but for vintage bikes in general?
#14
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Smugglers Notch, Vermont
Bikes: Upright and Recumbent....too many to list, mostly Vintage.
I had the exact same problem as the OP with a set of new Dia-Cope inverse brake levers. Brakes would be set fine and ride well for a little while and then they'd go loose.
The problem in my case was on the Brake Lever end of things. The hole in the brake levers that you mate the housing up with appeared to just accept the housing directly. Turned out there was a step-down ferrule that you were supposed to use and the brake housing was supposed to sit in the ferrule, which in turn fits in the brake lever body.
The effect of not using the ferrule was the spiral housing was unravelling like a spring inside that hole causing the housing to shorten and effectively lengthening the wire.
perhaps your levers are similar...perhaps not.
The problem in my case was on the Brake Lever end of things. The hole in the brake levers that you mate the housing up with appeared to just accept the housing directly. Turned out there was a step-down ferrule that you were supposed to use and the brake housing was supposed to sit in the ferrule, which in turn fits in the brake lever body.
The effect of not using the ferrule was the spiral housing was unravelling like a spring inside that hole causing the housing to shorten and effectively lengthening the wire.
perhaps your levers are similar...perhaps not.




