different types of quill stems
#1
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Bikes: 1982 Trek 710; 2008 Cannondale F6
different types of quill stems
I need a longer stem and came across this:

Is this type as secure as the more common (i think) type with the offset piece?

When I sprint I basically try to rip the handlebars off the bike but I hope never to succeed so the stem needs to hold on tight!
Thanks
-cgb

Is this type as secure as the more common (i think) type with the offset piece?

When I sprint I basically try to rip the handlebars off the bike but I hope never to succeed so the stem needs to hold on tight!
Thanks
-cgb
#2
Cinelli was the standard race bar/stem combo back in the day. That's not the prettiest one I've seen, but no, I don't think you can break it.
[edit] btw, note that vintage Cinelli stems use a proprietary larger size (26.4 iirc) clamp size so you'll need Cinelli bars to go with that. Not that that's a bad thing, but it's more $.
[edit] btw, note that vintage Cinelli stems use a proprietary larger size (26.4 iirc) clamp size so you'll need Cinelli bars to go with that. Not that that's a bad thing, but it's more $.
#3
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Cinelli was the standard race bar/stem combo back in the day. That's not the prettiest one I've seen, but no, I don't think you can break it.
[edit] btw, note that vintage Cinelli stems use a proprietary larger size (26.4 iirc) clamp size so you'll need Cinelli bars to go with that. Not that that's a bad thing, but it's more $.
[edit] btw, note that vintage Cinelli stems use a proprietary larger size (26.4 iirc) clamp size so you'll need Cinelli bars to go with that. Not that that's a bad thing, but it's more $.
Nitto bars and stems are of equal quality and easily available new, if you're concerned about the robustness of used ones. The Pearl stem is typically around 45-55, and the B115 bar is typically 30-45.
Cinelli now makes 26.0 mm stems, which can be used with Nitto (or anyone else's) 26.0 mm bars. Same great quality.
#4
#5
common knowledge says that the "slit and cone" style wedge (shown on Cinelli) is not as good as the "angle cut" style (shown on the Ti) for a couple reasons: quill material must be somewhat elastic, yet resist cracking; round cone has more tendency to form a permanent bulge in thin steering columns.
I have used both styles with no problems of my own, but seen cracked and bulged examples of style #1...in either case USE GREASE.
I have used both styles with no problems of my own, but seen cracked and bulged examples of style #1...in either case USE GREASE.
#6
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From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Thats an XA stem. Cinelli introduced that one after flop of the 1R--it creaked and the binder clamp often bottomed out before the bar was secure. The XA was also available with a 26.0 clamp for compatibility with other manufacturers' bars. You'll need to measure to see which one you have.
#7
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
The Cinelli XA stem should be more than adequate for most mortal C&V bikers out there. The basic design was even copied/shared by other makers in the 80's including Atax, who supplied the middle model portion of makers like Peugeot in the 80's.
BTW, there's a seller at ebay that deals with mostly stems of all different types and brands, but mostly NOS Cinelli and Modolo. Do a search in ebay using "Cinelli 1R" and you will surely find his "store". I was just browsing around his ebay site last night and I can't believe where this person finds all his stems, some of them cool unusual designs by the different stem makers with models from the 60's to the early 90's.
He doesn't seem to stock any French diameter stems though (22.0mm quill diameter). I guess I will just have to stick with my 22.0mm Cinelli 1A I got for my Peugeot in the 80's. I was really hoping to upgrade to the sleeker looking XA or the 1R, but the French bike component sizes curse had struck again! :^(
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
BTW, there's a seller at ebay that deals with mostly stems of all different types and brands, but mostly NOS Cinelli and Modolo. Do a search in ebay using "Cinelli 1R" and you will surely find his "store". I was just browsing around his ebay site last night and I can't believe where this person finds all his stems, some of them cool unusual designs by the different stem makers with models from the 60's to the early 90's.
He doesn't seem to stock any French diameter stems though (22.0mm quill diameter). I guess I will just have to stick with my 22.0mm Cinelli 1A I got for my Peugeot in the 80's. I was really hoping to upgrade to the sleeker looking XA or the 1R, but the French bike component sizes curse had struck again! :^(
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
#8
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common knowledge says that the "slit and cone" style wedge (shown on Cinelli) is not as good as the "angle cut" style (shown on the Ti) for a couple reasons: quill material must be somewhat elastic, yet resist cracking; round cone has more tendency to form a permanent bulge in thin steering columns.
I have used both styles with no problems of my own, but seen cracked and bulged examples of style #1...in either case USE GREASE.
I have used both styles with no problems of my own, but seen cracked and bulged examples of style #1...in either case USE GREASE.
#9
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From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
^ pretty interesting answers about the wedges, glad this question got asked.
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#11
that's the first time i've run across this particular bit of "common knowledge" and this one just so happens to be wrong, of course. the angle wedge is popular for one reason-it's easier & cheaper to implement. as far as damage to steerer tubes, one is far more likely to distort a steerer with a wedge because it applies all the force in a single plane. a cone style expander distributes the forces more evenly around the entire steerer. either design is perfectly suitable and reliable for the function and both can damage a steerer if installed by a hamfisted moron .
I was merely repeating what I've heard, and we always must take that kind of "knowledge" with a grain of salt. But from my own experience (and sketchy memory), the only quills I have seen cracked were the round cone style, and the only steerer I have ever worked on that was bulged to a point of becoming unusable was on a low-end Raleigh and was caused by one of those round-cones...I'm sure installed (or "adjusted") by a moron.
#12
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From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Send all of those dangerous Cinelli stems to me and I'll see they are taken care of.
Only damaged quills I've seen were off old Schwinns or somebody had tried to put too small a handlebar in there and kept on cranking down to get it tight till they broke it.
Only damaged quills I've seen were off old Schwinns or somebody had tried to put too small a handlebar in there and kept on cranking down to get it tight till they broke it.
#15
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#16
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I just got a lot more info than I bargained for. My handlebars are pitted enough to warrant replacing as well so I guess I will shop around for the stem then find bars to match.
I did briefly consider a cheap carbon fork so I could go the threadless route, since I already ruined the classsic look with new wheels, but I think I will wait on that.
I did briefly consider a cheap carbon fork so I could go the threadless route, since I already ruined the classsic look with new wheels, but I think I will wait on that.








