I'm looking to pick up an old road bike and would like some info on what bikes to run away from and what bikes are worth getting. My main usage for the bike would be to get myself into shape and just recreational usage. Thanks

That's a really tough question to answer. I guess in general look for anything with a lugged frame and cotterless cranks.

Keeping things very generic, I'd add aluminum rims to the above suggestion.

I would offer that any bike can be made into a rider. Avoid any bike with frame damage, and that includes hacked off bosses and stops.

If you want a steel frame make sure it says chrome moly main frame, not just chrome moly seat tube.
Cheap bikes usually say something like "High tensile steel" which means cheap steel.
I don't have a problem with lugless chrome moly frames-more an aesthetic thing than anything else.
Lots of older MTBs with 26" wheels make good, sturdy city bikes.You can get fairly skinny tires for them-trek 800,820,930,950 etc are mtbs and all but the 800's always seem to have full chrome Moly frames(some of the 800 have "seat tube" chrome moly just so they can say chrome moly.)

If you like aluminum just look for decent components/wheels. Decent components usually means good frame.
Luck
Charlie
ps since the weather is getting colder this is a good time to start looking-late spring is a bad time since folks are thinking about riding again.Take your time-there is ALWAYS another deal out there.Don't try to get too great a deal-you'll see lots of folks bragging about the great deal they got-yeah, but they spend there whole life looking,and never twel you about their not so good deals.Once you find what you like-fair price-offer 80%-and work up.Be polite-don't say "it needs this, or it is scratched" just say "nice bike, will you take x amount?"

Run fast and far from any bike with a stuck post or stem.

here is one to definitaly stay away from *giggle*

My main usage for the bike would be to get myself into shape and just recreational usage.

For the use you state there are many bikes that will serve that purpose. While the posts above give good advise don't just automatically pass on steel wheeled,hi ten framed vintage bikes. These bikes in good condition provide a economical alternative that you may find pleasing. If the choice is between a higher end bike that requires work vs. a vintage Varsity in good condition you may be ahead on the Varsity if you are only a sometime rider. A nice Fuji or similar bike are found at good prices in some markets but if it needs work it may cost more than it's worth.
The bottom line is condition,condition,condition.

I'd pass on:

1. 27" wheels
2. Steel wheels
3. Nutted axles
4. Hi-Tensile steel frames
5. Rust

In addition to what all fellow members have written : buy a bikes that WORKS..rolls... shifts etc. AND can be PROVEN to do so.
ZERO repairs : Perfect wheels, No unique shifting, No..." jest neeeds a little adjusting"
NONE of it, exept for tires & a nicer saddle.......maybe, even that's a push.
Unless you're a mavin in bikes and/or have an extra hundred or so, buy functional.

You stated yourself "into shape" I don't read anything pertaining to learning mechanics.

Well I did use for a long time a rather crappy looking Huffy 3 speed for commuting in Seattle - and it was perfect for the short trips I was making as well as being uninteresting to any bike thief that wasn't seriously whacked out on crack.

But it's not the bike I would have used if I wanted to ride for recreational purposes, or exercise - I had a Miyata 110 for that.

I wouldn't shy away from hi-ten framed bikes, unless you're planning on racing or something, you don't really need anything better.

Nothing wrong with 27 inch rims either. Quality tires are available, and there are a lot of old bikes out there still running them.,,,,BD

1. 27" wheels
2. Steel wheels
3. Nutted axles
4. Hi-Tensile steel frames
5. Rust


The only item on this list that is not a preferential issue is rust.
But rust in small amounts can be cleaned and therefore only quashes a deal if extensive.
The other items mentioned are completely reliable and serviceable if they are of quality.
While most riders who post on this forum prefer to have chromoly frames, alloy wheelsets and quick release hubs they are not absolute necessities for a usable ride.

Rob how much do you care to spend? your nerar Kutztown yes? how tall are you? will an older hybrid style bike do?

I can really enjoy riding heavy old Hi-Ten ('ordinary' steel), steel-wheeled beasts like my '70s Schwinn Le Tour or even a Schwinn Continental I reconditioned & passed along. For one thing, the frames are stiff and pedaling torque is efficiently transferred to rotation. With the heavy steel wheels and heavy overall weight, they are slow to accelerate, but once you're under way on level ground, it doesn't matter. A bit harsher ride. Cruising speed not much affected. I also do not tend worry about how much happier I'd have been with a bike costing 10x as much (all things considered, not happier really).

However, I live in a fairly flat place. If I had to haul the thing up mountains, then I might consider light weight more important.

Regardless, stiffness is important. I bought & sold a '70s vintage steel bike that was near the mfr's top of the line. It was light weight, but it was very flexy. When I was pedaling hard, felt like trying to push the thing through pudding. Might have been fine for a lightweight and less strong rider but I'm 200+ lbs. Some flex, especially in the fork, is helpful for reducing road harshness. Look for a Cr-Mo tapered fork, rather than a Hi-Ten fork.

Also, (not an expert here), are flexy bikes more prone to wobbles on fast descents than stiff bikes? Look into that if you envision going 30+ mph on descents.

Ive got a reynolds 531 framed bike and I find it far too flexy, and my weight gets as low as 120# around the middle of summer when im in serious riding phaze, I dont mind the frame flex so much its the flex in the fork that bothers me, anytime I get out of the saddle and im accelerating the brake pads will rub the rim whatever side im currently leaning on (and no its not the rim, its fine when I run it on other bikes), I really love the looks of the bike but im probably gonna strip it down and sell it, either that or maybe look into a different fork for it.

And yeah Ive heard high speed wobbles is usually a result of too much flex in the fork, its never something ive really exprienced, but descents around my parts don't really last that long anyway.

True, there is nothing really wrong with a plain steel frame and steel wheels in good shape.It is mainly weight.In the late 60's early 70's 10 speeds with cheaper steel frames and wheels weighed 35-40 LBS(like the Varsity etc)!!
But, usually older plain steel frame/wheel bikes are *** because folks didn't take care of them.The Chrome Moly aluminum wheel bikes are usually in better shape since folks took care of them.The older Schwinns in decent shape are just too expensive-$75-$150 for what you want.
If you find an older plain steel frame/wheeled bike(not a Schwinn since folks kinda' collect them, and it drives up the price) in good shape for $25, sure buy it.
Chrome Moly frame/fork is a decent marker for a bike worth buying.It will be 24-28 lbs.-really nice maybe $150.
Nothing wrong with aluminum frames, of course.
If the components are kinda' pretty(nice finish, not crudely stamped or cast), it usually means they are good quality.You can spend some time learning the component lines, but looks/finish/ will tell you something. Light weight is usually a decent marker for quality also.
Plain steel is fine, but tougher to find in good shape.Lots of WalMart bikes($70 new) are plain steel or cheap aluminum. If you don't mind the stigma, they are usually functional. I would rather pay $150 and get a better used chrome moly, but $80 more is $80.
Luck
Charlie

Don't worry about the type of steel. If you get a lugged frame or a Schwinn Varsity or Continental, a lower end frame is going to be plenty strong enough. It will just be a bit heavier. It will ride a bit more rigid too, but you can only tell if you run the narrowest tires at high psi

Steel rims are fine provided you don't ride in the rain or snow much. You will have to run a gumwall tire at a lower pressure because they won't have a hook bead, though.

You can get great, flatproof, skinwall, gumwall, modern, vintage, cyclocross knobby, road, touring, cheap, or high end 27" tires.

Looseness is something to look out for in the hubs, pedals, and steering. It may mean you need to replace parts, depending on how long the previous owner let it go. See for example if you can wiggle the rim from side to side in the frame.

Grease separates and the oil seeps out sometimes, depending on the type. See if there are dusty stains around the hubs, pedals, or steering. If so, drip some oil in there at a minimum, or get the parts repacked.

French bikes from before the mid 1980s come with unusual dimensions on certain parts, making them harder to replace.

Huffy (some bikes were OK, but none of the road bikes that I know of) , Murray, Sears (IMHO), Kent, Chiorda.... As you can see from the other comments...materials, components, workmanship, condition and fit are the major points to focus on. Don't forget you can look up bikes by manufacturer and model as well as old catalogs online, many of which can provide you with specs and placement within the product line. Don't forget, if you buy a bike and ride it and decide you don't like it (not a good fit, don't like the "feel" of the ride) ... it is easy to resell it. You may have to try a few bikes before you find one you really like. This is alot easier to do with $10 to $75 garage sale C&V finds then with a $4,500 bike from an LBS.

Really depends on your budget. A bike that might be considered low end junk at $200, might be a sweet deal at $50. The lower you go on the price scale, the more you have to accept certain flaws, unless you want to start looking for bikes full time!

That's my basement you're describing!

It might pay dividends to get the wheels trued and tensioned if the spokes are getting loose. It's a big boost to longevity.

Avoid any add that say,s "very RARE 10 speed Racer"/

here are a couple of rules of thumb (based on your question, and the premises: )

Avoid any bike that:

- you cannot lift and walk for a couple miles on your shoulder
- has tubular tires (based on the OPs premises)
- has visible rust on the chain and the drivetrain components (that would most likely be the rear derailleur)
- has broken teeth
- has bangs (or holes) on the frame (paint missing is fine, but actual bangs and dents will affect the structural integrity - i.e. the frame might "break")

Things to consider:

Ride the thing in a parking lot (preferably big and empty) looking down at your front wheel:

Hit that front brake a couple of times. If the wheel wobbles or you hear noises, you'll need a repair/parts.
Focus on the perimeter (edges) of the front tire while riding. If it looks like it's moving on anything else than a straight line, you will need a repair/adjustment/parts

Flip the bike and have it rest upside down on the seat and handlebars (don't do that if it is a pristine condition $1000+ italian steel bike that would make the seller get of the roof, with good reason):

spin the rear wheel and look at the same things as the front wheel (mentioned above)

-feel the bike... if it speaks to you, get it.