I just got a bike that had suicide levers on it, which the previous owner smartly removed. However, I am now left with the ends of the red anodized pivot barrel type things where the turkey wings once attached (see pic below).



Is there a source for replacement barrels like these (pic below). I checked loosescrews which was my only lead but it looks like they don't have them. I have a couple other sets of Dia Compe / Weinmann levers I would like to give the same treatment, so I would potentially be looking for a bunch of these things.

You can saw them off and put a pair of hoods over them. Or hit an old time bike store and pickup some old levers from their junk bins.

You can keep trying on eBay to win single bidder auctions for a very low amount. This auction has about 10-12 pairs of levers with those non-suicide pivots #270479828947

I usually just saw them off with a bandsaw. A hacksaw would work too if you have something to hold them with.

I think just about any bike shop that has been around awhile has those shorter pivot pins for a couple of bucks

I sawed them off with a hacksaw, I screwed them down to a saw horse through the hole in the side. I did it with my sons bike as well and now he wants them back on as it is hard for him to reach the brakes. His aren't Dia-Compe, just some no name copy. They look the same though. I have been putting off putting them back on as I am afraid he will then complain about not having hoods.

Replace them with aero brakes and put a pair of cyclocross interrupter levers on the top of the bar. Your son will be most pleased, I guarantee it.

-Kurt

Funny, but I went the other way on my Fuji S12-s. Turkey leavers are only 'dangerous' if you don't have a clue as to what you are doing when riding and braking. On properly adjusted brakes, I don't see them as being much different from cable interrupters.

That said, if you really wanted the short pins I pulled out (and assuming I can find them...), maybe I'll trade you?

Funny, but I went the other way on my Fuji S12-s. Turkey leavers are only 'dangerous' if you don't have a clue as to what you are doing when riding and braking. On properly adjusted brakes, I don't see them as being much different from cable interrupters.

I bought a full-blown touring bike on the "cheap" that had been converted to turkey levers by a previous owner. They also got rid of the DT shifters and bosses, going with stem shifters. It was a "pro" job. The bike has Dia-Compe cantilever brakes, but they added on Shimano turkey levers and kept the original hoods with very extremely neatly cut holes. They are super-tight in a good way, and I think they are a smart move for a touring bike with fenders, rear rack, panniers, etc. They work well, and I have no problems with them, and I am actually very glad to have them.

On this bike - Link to a huge pic - I cut them down and put the screw back in. Worked fine. They're soft aluminum so the screw will thread itself if it runs out of remaining existing threads.

+1 My favorite option is to convert to aerolevers. You can buy no name aerolevers for $11 at Niagara Cycle. That price is close to what lever hoods alone would cost.

I have also installed the Cane Creek lever hoods (about $7 at Niagara last time I bought some) and just left that small tab exposed. It looked fine IMHO. Anymore, since there is only a $4 difference between the two options (and one gives you brand new levers which much more functional hoods), I just go with Aerolevers.


If you look at this pic, you will see the red tabs on the levers.








1986 Trek 400T as found with turkey levers (missing one lever hood). FWIW: bike originally came with regular levers (no turkey levers):



After installation of Aerolevers out of the parts bin, and completion of rehab:

The cheap aero levers are certainly an option but I don't really love the look on vintage bikes. Cutting them off is another option, but will probably be a last resort. I was hoping there was an online source (like loose screws maybe) that would have the pivots.

Funny I have that EXACT same Grand Prix...not in quite as nice shape and is currently spending time alone in the basement being punished for having a stuck seat post.


Thanks everybody!

From the perspective of period correctness there's nothing wrong with aero levers on a vintage bike, especially an 86. My 82 Dura Ace equipped road bike had Shimano BL-7300 aero levers. I've had the same ones on my 83 custom road bike for the last 26 years and just replaced them with R600 aero levers.

I still like the look of the Dura Ace levers but (a) it's impossible to get new hoods for them and I've been running them with BL-6403 hoods for the last fifteen years (which ironically are the hoods that come with the R600 levers) and (b) I've just switched to double pivot brakes (I needed something that could stop me on downhill runs, what can I say) and you need to match these with SLR levers that have the return spring.

+1 In 1986, Trek was putting Aerolevers on some of their models. And they were not putting turkey levers on any of their bikes. So the Aerolevers I installed are more period correct in my case than the levers I removed, as they were shoddy aftermarket levers.

I rode two of my turkey lever bikes (flips) today. And I have to admit, for recreational riding, they are pretty handy. For longer riding, I prefer the more comfortable hoods on aero levers.

I grew up in Australia and my first 10 speed, a Malvern Star SL had 'safety levers' (we don't have Turkeys in Australia, at least not the feathered variety ;-)). I rode pretty much exclusively with hands on the bar next to the stem, and used the safety levers for braking. Part of the issue is I'm very long in the body with short arms so the reach is difficult.

After that I had a full custom Columbus SL frame built for me and I've ridden on the hoods of the levers ever since. After 30+ years of riding I can almost shift using DT shifters without wobbling but going Brifter is expensive and those things look hideous to boot. For me nothing beats a short wheelbase racing frame with a decent set of wheels, aero levers with internal cable routing, and DT shifters.

NB: I also rode my Malvern Star ten speed in two speed mode in those days. First was for starting off and tenth was for everything else :-). 90RPM cadence spinning was for wimps!