Removing a Maillard freewheel!
#1
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Removing a Maillard freewheel!
Hi,
I'm trying to remove an old Maillard freewheel from an equally old 197x Peugeot. It looks UO8-esque, but cant tell for sure due to a dodgy paint job, but cottered cranks, Sachs-Huret der. and bits of the frame would suggest so.
Does anyone have an idea which tool freewheel tool will enable me to remove it, and where I can get one in the UK?! I dont think Park make one to fit.
I have attached a pic to help
Thanks!!
I'm trying to remove an old Maillard freewheel from an equally old 197x Peugeot. It looks UO8-esque, but cant tell for sure due to a dodgy paint job, but cottered cranks, Sachs-Huret der. and bits of the frame would suggest so.
Does anyone have an idea which tool freewheel tool will enable me to remove it, and where I can get one in the UK?! I dont think Park make one to fit.
I have attached a pic to help
Thanks!!
#2
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Borrowed from another website
Park makes a freewheel tool that fits Maillard freewheels (FR-1), is this one not compatable with yours? Both Colorado Cyclist and Bike Nashbar sell this tool. If this one isn't compatable with your freewheel, I know a way to remove freewheels without a tool.
To remove a freewheel without a tool you need to dissasemble the freewheel and use a plumbing pipe wrench on the freewheel body. The cap on freewheels is reverse threaded, they usually have two indentations that you need a tool like the Park pin spanners to remove (they make several so you need to see which one will work). When you remove the cap there are many little bearings that might go flying (depending on how much grease is left in the freewheel). Remove the cap and dissasemble the freewheel with the wheel over a towel to catch the bearings if they do go flying. The exact count isn't absolutely criticle, but try to figure out how many of the bearings were on the inside and outside of the freewheel. Then dissasemble the pawl system. Most freewheels have two pawls on opposite sides held in place with a circular spring. After the pawls are removed you can use the pipe wrench to unscrew the freewheel body. It often helps to use a doorway, or wall area, for leverage. Put the wheel in the doorway so when you put reverse leverage on the freewheel body it wants to drive the wheel into the frame (wall). Place the pipe wrench on the freewheel's body in a way it won't damage the bearing races. You don't have to worry as much about the pawl seats as the races, but if you can avoid those too it can't hurt (although sometimes the pawl seats are needed to anchor the pipe wrench). You then apply the reverse pressure (as you probably know) and that will take it off. You might need to use a LOT OF PRESSURE, freewheels tend to get screwed on really tightly. Then after it's off put it back together before you forget how to do it.
To remove a freewheel without a tool you need to dissasemble the freewheel and use a plumbing pipe wrench on the freewheel body. The cap on freewheels is reverse threaded, they usually have two indentations that you need a tool like the Park pin spanners to remove (they make several so you need to see which one will work). When you remove the cap there are many little bearings that might go flying (depending on how much grease is left in the freewheel). Remove the cap and dissasemble the freewheel with the wheel over a towel to catch the bearings if they do go flying. The exact count isn't absolutely criticle, but try to figure out how many of the bearings were on the inside and outside of the freewheel. Then dissasemble the pawl system. Most freewheels have two pawls on opposite sides held in place with a circular spring. After the pawls are removed you can use the pipe wrench to unscrew the freewheel body. It often helps to use a doorway, or wall area, for leverage. Put the wheel in the doorway so when you put reverse leverage on the freewheel body it wants to drive the wheel into the frame (wall). Place the pipe wrench on the freewheel's body in a way it won't damage the bearing races. You don't have to worry as much about the pawl seats as the races, but if you can avoid those too it can't hurt (although sometimes the pawl seats are needed to anchor the pipe wrench). You then apply the reverse pressure (as you probably know) and that will take it off. You might need to use a LOT OF PRESSURE, freewheels tend to get screwed on really tightly. Then after it's off put it back together before you forget how to do it.
#3
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Borrowed from another website
Thanks anyway.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 536
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From: Issaquah, WA
Bikes: 2006 Specialized Tarmac Expert, 1990 Specialized Allez Epic, Specialized RockCombo (winter), 70's Motobecane Team Champion,
Originally Posted by alibell
The remover needs to be quite large, much more so than the Park tool (around 30mm diameter at best estimate). Also note the very narrow splines needed to fit the groves (if you can make them out in the photo).
Thanks anyway.
Thanks anyway.
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 536
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From: Issaquah, WA
Bikes: 2006 Specialized Tarmac Expert, 1990 Specialized Allez Epic, Specialized RockCombo (winter), 70's Motobecane Team Champion,
https://www.bicycletool.com/wheelt.html#anchor270825
Did a little more research..this links to Bicycle Research tool catalog..proper remover, if you decide to buy it is the CT-3, Normandy type.
Did a little more research..this links to Bicycle Research tool catalog..proper remover, if you decide to buy it is the CT-3, Normandy type.
#6
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,417
Likes: 1,882
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Originally Posted by Raiyn
Borrowed from another website
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by Tom Pedale
https://www.bicycletool.com/wheelt.html#anchor270825
Did a little more research..this links to Bicycle Research tool catalog..proper remover, if you decide to buy it is the CT-3, Normandy type.
Did a little more research..this links to Bicycle Research tool catalog..proper remover, if you decide to buy it is the CT-3, Normandy type.
Thanks Tom. The BRT site linked to a UK distributor (Townsends - Cambridge) which has the CT-3 in stock!







