Brooks saddle
#1
Brooks saddle
Has anyone reskinned their saddle? Is there a source for the rivets?
I'm asking cause I'm cheap and have this saddle from a 52' Raleigh sport.
Any Idea what model this is? TIA


I'm asking cause I'm cheap and have this saddle from a 52' Raleigh sport.
Any Idea what model this is? TIA


#2
#5
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,323
Likes: 5,232
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Tony Colgrave is the man for Brooks repair. He is an authorized Brooks agent, and even has the stamps to properly emboss the replacement leather.
tony_colegrave@hotmail.com
A. Colgrave Wellhouse
Northian Rye
East Sussex
TN31 6HY, England
01797 253177
tony_colegrave@hotmail.com
A. Colgrave Wellhouse
Northian Rye
East Sussex
TN31 6HY, England
01797 253177
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 813
Likes: 170
From: Adelaide, Australia
my attempt at recovering a tensioned leather saddle.
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
#7
my attempt at recovering a tensioned leather saddle.
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
A job well done!
#8
QUOTE=Big Block;10280034]my attempt at recovering a tensioned leather saddle.
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame[/QUOTE]
BRAVO! That's an inspired project, I love the results. I haven't done any leather moulding since I was a Boy Scout and into hand-making moccasins, back then I was making wooden forms and nailing the wetted leather to the form. I like the home-made vacuum bag method, but it would not have been "Scout-approved" back then for what we thought was authentic Navajo/Apache footwear technique.
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame[/QUOTE]
BRAVO! That's an inspired project, I love the results. I haven't done any leather moulding since I was a Boy Scout and into hand-making moccasins, back then I was making wooden forms and nailing the wetted leather to the form. I like the home-made vacuum bag method, but it would not have been "Scout-approved" back then for what we thought was authentic Navajo/Apache footwear technique.
#9
my attempt at recovering a tensioned leather saddle.
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
would have been much cheaper to buy a new one, but I wanted to keep the saddle frame
Welcome to BF
With my limited resources I may just sell a bike and BUY a saddle. lol
Last edited by michael k; 01-17-10 at 04:39 PM.
#11
Passista


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,243
Likes: 1,209
Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaņa pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility
My DL-1 saddle when I bought it:

I discarded the old cover, got some sole leather about 3-4 mm thick, cut a square oversize piece and soaked it in wather for 15 mins. Molded it by hand over the frame (took me some time and force, about 40 mins, since the leather tended to return to its flat shape). Let it dry overnight and trimmed it to shape. Got some hollow copper rivets from an auto clutch and brake shop, punched holes in the cover and put the rivets but not hammered them yet. Did the final trimming and hammered the rivets on. Rubbed some linseed oil and let dry. The shape was OK, but the leather was too soft and sagged after some riding. Took the saddle off and soaked it in boiling water for 4 mins. When dry it was very hard and worked ok since:

I discarded the old cover, got some sole leather about 3-4 mm thick, cut a square oversize piece and soaked it in wather for 15 mins. Molded it by hand over the frame (took me some time and force, about 40 mins, since the leather tended to return to its flat shape). Let it dry overnight and trimmed it to shape. Got some hollow copper rivets from an auto clutch and brake shop, punched holes in the cover and put the rivets but not hammered them yet. Did the final trimming and hammered the rivets on. Rubbed some linseed oil and let dry. The shape was OK, but the leather was too soft and sagged after some riding. Took the saddle off and soaked it in boiling water for 4 mins. When dry it was very hard and worked ok since:
#13
You can also find a good assortment of rivets at Tandy leather shops, also an obvious source for the leather. I've been wanting to re-cover a sagging B72, and I recently picked up another that's unusable, this will probably go into the project queue...
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Charles Wahl
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