Threadless vs. Threaded -- now I need headset help...
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 4
From: Collegeville, PA
Bikes: Ruckelshaus Randonneur, Specialized Allez (early 90's, steel), Ruckelshaus Path Bomber currently being built
You can pry my 1" threaded headsets and quill stems from my cold, dead hands.
* Better looking
* Easier to adjust stem height to suit rider position, especially on the road
* Greater range of adjustment
* Your fork and front wheel won't end up on the floor when you pull the stem out
Threadless steering system components only came about to save bicycle manufacturers money and to simplify their supply chain, with manufacturers saying "they're better" without any real data to back that up. And, because it was "newer, and therefore must be better", cyclists took the bait hook, line, and sinker. True, in the longer run, it allowed for things that could never happen with a threaded steerer, like carbon steerer tubes, but 99% of the population really doesn't need that.
/grumpy old man
Pete
* Better looking
* Easier to adjust stem height to suit rider position, especially on the road
* Greater range of adjustment
* Your fork and front wheel won't end up on the floor when you pull the stem out
Threadless steering system components only came about to save bicycle manufacturers money and to simplify their supply chain, with manufacturers saying "they're better" without any real data to back that up. And, because it was "newer, and therefore must be better", cyclists took the bait hook, line, and sinker. True, in the longer run, it allowed for things that could never happen with a threaded steerer, like carbon steerer tubes, but 99% of the population really doesn't need that.
/grumpy old man
Pete
#27
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,462
Stick with threaded. Just my opinion. Your LBS just wants to make money, avoid hassle, and get you out the door.
There are tons of stems that would look just great, and you really only have to "undo" one side of the bar to swap stems.
I'd find a different LBS. It's not their bike, it's yours.
There are tons of stems that would look just great, and you really only have to "undo" one side of the bar to swap stems.
I'd find a different LBS. It's not their bike, it's yours.
#28
Primate
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,579
Likes: 5
From: gone
Bikes: Concorde Columbus SL, Rocky Mountain Edge, Sparta stadfiets
I'd go for the new quill stem too.
If a fork change were absolutely necessary, only then would I upgrade to threadless. Which is what I did.
But not if the bike were actually C or V.
A 25.4 mmØ steerer tube can be made to be stronger, stiffer, and lighter than a 22.2mmØ stem quill, regardless of material.
If a fork change were absolutely necessary, only then would I upgrade to threadless. Which is what I did.
But not if the bike were actually C or V.
A 25.4 mmØ steerer tube can be made to be stronger, stiffer, and lighter than a 22.2mmØ stem quill, regardless of material.
#29
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 2000 Schwinn Paramount Ti, 1994 LeMond/Bilatto, 1985 Colnago Super
I'd go for the new quill stem too.
If a fork change were absolutely necessary, only then would I upgrade to threadless. Which is what I did.
But not if the bike were actually C or V.
A 25.4 mmØ steerer tube can be made to be stronger, stiffer, and lighter than a 22.2mmØ stem quill, regardless of material.
If a fork change were absolutely necessary, only then would I upgrade to threadless. Which is what I did.
But not if the bike were actually C or V.
A 25.4 mmØ steerer tube can be made to be stronger, stiffer, and lighter than a 22.2mmØ stem quill, regardless of material.
#31
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 2000 Schwinn Paramount Ti, 1994 LeMond/Bilatto, 1985 Colnago Super
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steadybreeze
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03-20-16 01:27 PM





