For the love of English 3 speeds...
#5651
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I did some reading last night, and it looks like clutch only sees any significant wear from high gear, which I'm not using super often and haven't had too many problems with. I'll leave it for now and wait until it causes a problem.
#5653
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Very interesting...after last night's cleaning and re-lubing, it started off fine, then started scraping again after a mile or so of riding. This is pretty much in line with what it's been doing, which makes me think there's some kind of heat expansion going on somewhere...although this morning is the coldest it's been so far this season.
#5654
Senior Member
What was the smallest size frame these 3-speeds came in? I have a 19" Sports ladies frame but it's too big for my 5'0" wife.
#5655
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@markk900, no, the clutch is a wear item. It can require replacement from wear, but I'm not an expert on when. I'd say when it causes a problem.
#5656
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Very interesting...after last night's cleaning and re-lubing, it started off fine, then started scraping again after a mile or so of riding. This is pretty much in line with what it's been doing, which makes me think there's some kind of heat expansion going on somewhere...although this morning is the coldest it's been so far this season.
#5657
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#5658
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Yeeeaaaaahhhh...I'm a little embarrassed here. Basically, my scraping sound was a product of not having the left side bearing adjusted properly. I was having difficulty fitting the cone wrench between the hub and the spacer washer, and then not getting the lock nut to jam against it tightly enough. As a result, it would feel fine for a little while, and eventually slip out of adjustment and start rubbing...I'm not 100% sure what exact parts were rubbing against each other, but after fighting with the adjustment for a while last night, I had a much smoother ride to and from work, with no scraping in ~18 miles' worth of riding in the rain, along with the bike sitting out in it all day.
#5659
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@agmetal, that's good to know.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#5660
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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@markk900, no, the clutch is a wear item. It can require replacement from wear, but I'm not an expert on when. I'd say when it causes a problem.
#5661
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I guess I'm missing something here. The AW's have clutches? I thought they were all-gear.
#5662
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The clutch probably wears faster than anything else but even then you are looking at a long service interval or after subjecting the hub to great deals of abuse and neglect... if you pull apart an AW for servicing and have replacement clutches then it is not a bad idea to replace it since they are not expensive.
It's not a clutch like a car clutch which you slip in gradually. This one is in or out. But shifting under load will wear it out, especially if the load is high.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#5663
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#5664
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
AW clutch
I have dealt with a few broken axle keys too but this is not really a wear issue.
I have dealt with a few broken axle keys too but this is not really a wear issue.
#5665
Count Orlok Member
Raleigh Colt came in 18" frames, such as this one on eBay.
#5666
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Well put. The pawls and pawl springs, on the other hand, are a tougher call, since they're tricky to replace.
It's not a clutch like a car clutch which you slip in gradually. This one is in or out. But shifting under load will wear it out, especially if the load is high.
It's not a clutch like a car clutch which you slip in gradually. This one is in or out. But shifting under load will wear it out, especially if the load is high.
#5667
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Raleigh Colt came in 18" frames, such as this one on eBay.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#5668
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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#5669
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Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#5670
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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#5671
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Self-restraint paid off yesterday. I thought all I had was a garden-variety chain-came-off-rear sprocket incident (1962 Phillips with Sturmey-Archer 3-speed), and was perplexed when I couldn't get it back on by putting it in place and then turning the cranks, nothing would move at all, sprocket wouldn't rotate.
So I considered just using a little more force, like pushing on the higher pedal. Nada.
Then (late for where I was headed, a short trip) I considered using a LOT of force, like really kicking or standing on the high pedal. But, I didn't. Don't ask me why, it's my usual "hammer mechanic" response, but I didn't. Something looked "wrong". It was the sprocket, it was cockeyed. Oh NO says I, something is fractured or broken, I'll need a new hub, where can i find one, why me God? (typical reaction).
But to my surprise, and acting against type, I actually calmed down, walked bike home, used car instead, then took the wheel off later. Turns out all it was, was the circlip had come free of the hub, and the sprocket was off the axle and out of position, so the chain jammed between it and the seat stay. The circlip probably was caught by a too-loose chain as it came off the sprocket followed by the sprocket coming free too. Nothing was damaged (because I hadn't tried to force it) and getting the clip back on wasn't easy, but after a few minutes with improvised tools, it finally snapped back on.
Now it's good as "new" I think (I've had this bike since new when I was a kid, no one ever stole it and gradually it has become "vintage", lucky me). And not losing my temper and breaking chain, clip, or even sprocket, paid off. Note to self, try this self-restraint thing a little more often?
Anyway, that was my lesson in character-building and shade-tree bike mechanics, courtesy of this reliable old bike. For you gearheads (which I definitely am not) the part was the K 463 Circlip pictured, though of course I did not look it up til today:
https://www.google.com/search?q=stur...%3B3510%3B2550
So I considered just using a little more force, like pushing on the higher pedal. Nada.
Then (late for where I was headed, a short trip) I considered using a LOT of force, like really kicking or standing on the high pedal. But, I didn't. Don't ask me why, it's my usual "hammer mechanic" response, but I didn't. Something looked "wrong". It was the sprocket, it was cockeyed. Oh NO says I, something is fractured or broken, I'll need a new hub, where can i find one, why me God? (typical reaction).
But to my surprise, and acting against type, I actually calmed down, walked bike home, used car instead, then took the wheel off later. Turns out all it was, was the circlip had come free of the hub, and the sprocket was off the axle and out of position, so the chain jammed between it and the seat stay. The circlip probably was caught by a too-loose chain as it came off the sprocket followed by the sprocket coming free too. Nothing was damaged (because I hadn't tried to force it) and getting the clip back on wasn't easy, but after a few minutes with improvised tools, it finally snapped back on.
Now it's good as "new" I think (I've had this bike since new when I was a kid, no one ever stole it and gradually it has become "vintage", lucky me). And not losing my temper and breaking chain, clip, or even sprocket, paid off. Note to self, try this self-restraint thing a little more often?
Anyway, that was my lesson in character-building and shade-tree bike mechanics, courtesy of this reliable old bike. For you gearheads (which I definitely am not) the part was the K 463 Circlip pictured, though of course I did not look it up til today:
https://www.google.com/search?q=stur...%3B3510%3B2550
Last edited by nolatom; 12-15-14 at 10:30 AM.
#5672
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Same here- I've had a couple axle keys break over the years, but only had to replace one clutch.
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#5673
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Yes, Toronto.
#5674
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Three Fall Favourites.
Now that fall has arrived here in Canada it's time to think about putting the bikes away. I'm not an all season rider. These three 3 speeds are my everyday bikes with the Canadian built Superbe seeing the most action. I've probably spent the most money on the Superbe over the years from initial purchase @ $160.00 to adding new tires/chain/pedals/pump/brake pads etc.The vintage saddle bag was $10.00 and the vintage Brooks saddle $80.00.
From the left: 1964 Glider, 1973 Raleigh Superbe and a 1967 Dunelt.
I like to add some oil to the hub and pump up the tires before they're retired for the season. Also, I leave the shifter in the 3rd position to take the tension off the indicator chain.The bikes are hung in the garage and I will occasionally go out and give the back wheel a spin and run through the gears just to circulate the oil. Also, a little Proofide can be applied to the saddle(s).
From the left: 1964 Glider, 1973 Raleigh Superbe and a 1967 Dunelt.
I like to add some oil to the hub and pump up the tires before they're retired for the season. Also, I leave the shifter in the 3rd position to take the tension off the indicator chain.The bikes are hung in the garage and I will occasionally go out and give the back wheel a spin and run through the gears just to circulate the oil. Also, a little Proofide can be applied to the saddle(s).
Last edited by gster; 12-22-14 at 03:41 PM.
#5675
Senior Member
Here's an interesting Craigslist post I learned of through the Gentlemen Cyclist list:
Raleigh DL1 Tourist roadster
Raleigh DL1 Tourist roadster
Raleigh DL1 Tourist roadster - $200 (Lakeville )
Over the summer of 2014 I sold a very nice Raleigh DL1 with rod brakes. I believe it was a 76 (see picture) and I had put a lot of time and money into the bike. I sold it because I was moving out of state. Long story short, the move never happened.
I know it may be corny or tacky, but I am making this post in hopes that maybe the buyer will see it. I am curious if you would sell the bike back to me? I would be willing to pay more than what I had sold it for. Its the biggest sellers remorse I've gone through. Corny, I know.
Or if anyone else is reading this and you have one for sale, maybe we can work a deal.
Over the summer of 2014 I sold a very nice Raleigh DL1 with rod brakes. I believe it was a 76 (see picture) and I had put a lot of time and money into the bike. I sold it because I was moving out of state. Long story short, the move never happened.
I know it may be corny or tacky, but I am making this post in hopes that maybe the buyer will see it. I am curious if you would sell the bike back to me? I would be willing to pay more than what I had sold it for. Its the biggest sellers remorse I've gone through. Corny, I know.
Or if anyone else is reading this and you have one for sale, maybe we can work a deal.