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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 12-29-14, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Living in Oregon I cannot help but to love the color green.
Not that you have any choice!
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Old 12-29-14, 08:03 PM
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Funny thing about that Raleigh Bronze Green... it changes colour based on the model year as well as the model of bike. I have 5 or 6 different Raleighs that are all green, only the two Twentys come anywhere close to actually matching.

You can see a bit of the difference in these two (crappy picture) The big one is a 1971/72 Raleigh Superbe the other is a 1973 Raleigh Colt. The Colt is a darker color.

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Old 12-29-14, 10:18 PM
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For whatever it's worth, when I took my frame to the powdercoater, the closest match was a dark transparent green topcoat over a burnt orange metallic.
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Old 12-29-14, 10:30 PM
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OK, what's your opinion on this one? A Phillips Step through 3 speed touring bike. Seller says hub says: "Sturmey Archer AG 55 8 DYNO-THREE"

Vintage PHILLIPS Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Touring Bicycle Bike ENGLAND

I think $150 might be steep. Does the 55 on the hub mean 1955? Thanks.
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Old 12-29-14, 11:08 PM
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Yes! 1955 3-speed with the Dyno integrated into one hub. From the looks of it I would jump on it in a heartbeat. It looks like its fairly intact and original with only the pedals missing.
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Old 12-29-14, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
Yes! 1955 3-speed with the Dyno integrated into one hub. From the looks of it I would jump on it in a heartbeat. It looks like its fairly intact and original with only the pedals missing.
Those aren't the original pedals? Also isn't there supposed to be a clamp on cable stop type piece on the chain stay about 5" from dropouts? I don't see one.
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Old 12-29-14, 11:34 PM
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Coolest 3-speed I've seen in a long time. If it all works, or even if most of it works, that price is too low, but don't tell the seller I said so. I'm hoping you get this.
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Old 12-29-14, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
OK, what's your opinion on this one? A Phillips Step through 3 speed touring bike. Seller says hub says: "Sturmey Archer AG 55 8 DYNO-THREE"

Vintage PHILLIPS Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Touring Bicycle Bike ENGLAND

I think $150 might be steep. Does the 55 on the hub mean 1955? Thanks.
BUY! Pre-Raleigh Phillips+AG Dynohub+SA Light Kit+Phillips chainring=Too cool for school!
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Old 12-30-14, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
OK, what's your opinion on this one? A Phillips Step through 3 speed touring bike. Seller says hub says: "Sturmey Archer AG 55 8 DYNO-THREE"

Vintage PHILLIPS Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Touring Bicycle Bike ENGLAND

I think $150 might be steep. Does the 55 on the hub mean 1955? Thanks.
You really need to call in to work, cancel all appointments, skip breakfast, and get there first thing in the morning.
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Old 12-30-14, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Those aren't the original pedals? Also isn't there supposed to be a clamp on cable stop type piece on the chain stay about 5" from dropouts? I don't see one.
Cable stop is on the down tube, pulley behind the chain wheel.

Pedals don't look original, but they do look period... interesting.

It is worth a lot more than what they are asking. That thing is in amazing condition for being nearly 60 years old.

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Old 12-30-14, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Those aren't the original pedals? Also isn't there supposed to be a clamp on cable stop type piece on the chain stay about 5" from dropouts? I don't see one.
Sturmey Archer shift systems usually don't use a cable stop. Well, they have one, the one that stops the cable after it leaves the handlebars and first gets to the frame. But, true to proper English tradition, that is not called a 'cable stop'. Proper British etiquette demands a more proper title. They call it the 'fulcrum clip'

Once exiting the fulcrum clip the cable usually only encounters a pulley. The classier setups use a metal pulley, the newer ones are plastic.

I hope you got that bike already... It'll be good bones for a proper 3-speed ride and should be quite charming.
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Old 12-30-14, 11:21 AM
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1955 would be about right. The trigger shifter is a GC3A from around 1953-1956. Buy it.
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Old 12-30-14, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
Sturmey Archer shift systems usually don't use a cable stop. Well, they have one, the one that stops the cable after it leaves the handlebars and first gets to the frame. But, true to proper English tradition, that is not called a 'cable stop'. Proper British etiquette demands a more proper title. They call it the 'fulcrum clip'

Once exiting the fulcrum clip the cable usually only encounters a pulley. The classier setups use a metal pulley, the newer ones are plastic.

I hope you got that bike already... It'll be good bones for a proper 3-speed ride and should be quite charming.
Thanks so much for the clarification on what that part is called - the "fulcrum clip". I've found that it makes things so much easier if you know & use the correct terminology. That way everyone knows what you're referring to. Excellent information.

You're all enablers! I made contact with the seller and he's agreed to let me have first "dibs" on it. Likely won't see it today, but perhaps tomorrow or New Year's day (before the Oregon football game). Friday at the latest. I don't have what he wants in trade, and he is somewhat negotiable on the price, but not much.

He said it's a "barn find" with no rust, just grime. He said he's gone over it with a soapy rag to get most of the grime off. He's aired up both tires and one has a slow leak, so as far as he reports, just a tube replacement. He said it shifts and that the lights work. He said I can test ride it, so it's in rideable condition. It's sort of "maroon" at this point because the paint is faded.

OK, so I've done research on the forum and believe the following:

-since it's pre-Raleigh, it has standard, normal (not sure of the terminology) threading for bottom brackets, headset.
-tires should not be a problem. What size of wheels are these? Standard 26" or a different size?
-I'm guessing that, despite the lights "working" they may not put out enough light to be truly useful. Thoughts?

OK, that's it. I see it's got cottered cranks. If I get this bike I will spring for the SA Spanner and likely get a cotter press from bikesmithdesign. OR I might be able to buy an official one at one of the coops.
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Old 12-30-14, 02:35 PM
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You better get this bike. I'm really excited about it.

I wouldn't want to use the term Standard 26". Those wheels are what were *A* standard but not *THE* standard. They're called 26 x 1-3/8". The bead seat diameter is 590mm, which is the only accurate way of referring to them. It's much bigger than standard MTB size, which is 559mm.

Do not let price be the cause of not getting the bike! If someone else offers $175, you offer $200. This is an extra cool bike.
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Old 12-30-14, 02:42 PM
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I'm not as enthused about that Phillips as others seem to be. I've had a couple of pre-Raleigh Phillips 3-speeds, and they were nothing special. Chrome, rims, and components seemed lower end than your basic Raleigh Sports. I also have to say that the color of this one, at least in those CL photos, is very meh. Certainly, take it for a ride and see if you like how it feels. They're heavy as hell, particularly with that rear dynohub, and that saddle won't likely feel comfortable. I suppose the price is appropriate for your market, but seems on the high end, even for Boston. I bought a very nice and all-original (including tires!) 1966 lady's Raleigh Sports on CL a couple of weeks ago for $40, and that included a set of those ginormous double rear baskets. That leaves $110 to buy a very nice modern lighting system!

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Old 12-30-14, 02:48 PM
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The tire size is "26 x 1 3/8", which is different from 26 x 1.375".... When in doubt, 37-590 (Kendas are the most common, at many LBSs, but the Continental City Rides or the Michelins, both of which can run higher pressures, are more fun to ride). Its a traditional 3-speed size. If it were me regardless of condition I would replace the rims; Sun CR-18s are the usual choice as the size is available in the required 32 hole and 40 hole versions for front and rear wheels. I like a 22-tooth cog on the rear to climb hills better, you can get that from Wheelsmith where you are getting the cotterpress. He has spare cotters too. Completists might keep the steel rims, but replacing them is the one place where going from steel to alloy will be immediately noticeable.

The bike is well worth the price, regardless of its tires! That the lights work and the hub shifts is fine- and an indication of how reliable this stuff really is. There is a very good chance that the bulbs are original, but I would consider replacing them with LED replacements, which are readily available.

You will want to service out both the headset and BB bearings and I would service the front hub bearings too. BTW the cooler versions of the front hub have an oil port.

I fixed one of these up for a friend of mine and was amazed at how comfortable the seat was. The one she had was a Lycett.
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Old 12-30-14, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
You better get this bike. I'm really excited about it.

I wouldn't want to use the term Standard 26". Those wheels are what were *A* standard but not *THE* standard. They're called 26 x 1-3/8". The bead seat diameter is 590mm, which is the only accurate way of referring to them. It's much bigger than standard MTB size, which is 559mm.

Do not let price be the cause of not getting the bike! If someone else offers $175, you offer $200. This is an extra cool bike.
Great to know. I couldn't remember the term "bead seat diameter", but yes, I suspected that they were not the 26" wheels that I usually think of. So bb threading should be the more common "standard"?
I'm now getting excited because many of you are excited. I don't know enough about 3 speeds to know what/when to get excited about a particular feature, component, etc. So your source of knowledge is very insightful and helpful. I sure do appreciate it.

I called one of the coops in Portland and they do own a cotter press for the shop, and have a supply of various sized cotter pins. In the event I'd want to have them do a bb repack, they charge about $25, which seems alright. I'd likely do it myself, for the "fun" and experience, but it's good to know what's available, and that they don't consider hammer as their cotter press.

So for replacement brake pads I'm thinking Kool Stop "Continental" pads? Keep the original housing? Would I need to get any particular brake or shift cables? If so, and if they're particularly esoteric, any idea where to get?
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Old 12-30-14, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious

[...]
If it were me regardless of condition I would replace the rims; Sun CR-18s are the usual choice as the size is available in the required 32 hole and 40 hole versions for front and rear wheel
[...]
I like the CR 18s on my Sports very much. They are highly polished giving a chrome-like appearance -- very appropriate, I think. They are very good rims for $25 - $30 or so.

Raleighs with 32 spokes in the front and 40 in the rear allowed for using the same spoke lengths on the front and rear. The flange on the dyno-hub left side is bigger, though, so it will probably require 52 of one length and 20 of another -- if it's 40 rear and 32 front.

Last edited by desconhecido; 12-30-14 at 03:06 PM. Reason: Change 42 to 52
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Old 12-30-14, 04:04 PM
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@nierner - I appreciate your insights. It's often easy to get excited about something & end up buying something then realizing you really don't want/like it that much. I'll definitely ride it to see. Regarding the price - Portland, OR market is very high priced or as they say "hot" market for bicycles. So, while in other markets the seller's asking price may seem a little or a lot high, around here it doesn't surprise me. I really haven't been looking, in depth, at 3 speeds so it seems high to me personally, but then it's the market.

I'm not thrilled about the color either. The Raleigh bronze-green is my favorite, however my concern about a Raleigh is the non standard threading, etc. and my parts bin collection is extremely modest and does not include any Raleigh specific components. So, for my first 3 speed plus cottered cranks, this may be a better one to start out on.

I'll keep you posted as to what transpires. I've bookmarked some pages regarding specifics on SA hub adjustment, in particular, the inner workings of this particular hubs, etc.
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Old 12-30-14, 04:21 PM
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^^ Just so you know you are not going to be able to tell much about the bike's ride without giving it some TLC! The old tires are not going to handle or feel right, the brakes won't work right and all the bearings in the bike will be gummed up or dry. You'll just have to trust that British 3-speeds have a following for a reason. Its not a coincidence that this thread is the longest one in the C&V section of this site.
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Old 12-30-14, 05:22 PM
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There's a good chance you won't need to replace threaded stuff. Just overhaul it and see. Whether it's 24 or 26 tpi, you will find replacements. Generally, the headsets don't wear out. Sometimes the BB's do.
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Old 12-30-14, 11:58 PM
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Hopper 4 Speed SA

Checking back in y'all...

Whaddya think about this one from here in "Flyover Country"?

Vintage Hopper English 4 Speed Road Bike
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Old 12-31-14, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Checking back in y'all...

Whaddya think about this one from here in "Flyover Country"?

Vintage Hopper English 4 Speed Road Bike
That is pretty unusual, hopefully some the archivists will chime in. That is one brand I have never heard of.

I think he may be a bit high on his price given the location.

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Old 12-31-14, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
It's often easy to get excited about something & end up buying something then realizing you really don't want/like it that much.
That'd be the deal breaker for me - "Do I really need to get another bike that I probably won't ride much?"

Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Regarding the price - Portland, OR market is very high priced or as they say "hot" market for bicycles.
And that's the flip side of the argument (literally). You should be able to sell it for no loss, perhaps some profit when you decide it just ain't all that. You like messing around with bikes, so, eh, what the hell?
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Old 12-31-14, 03:08 PM
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Finished this one up today: 1969-ish Raleigh Superbe (rear hub is dated 1969, front is 1971). It came to me from CL, but needed lots of donor components to get it closer to original. Saddle is an RHM recovered Brooks B.66. I stuck a screw-in LED bulb in the lamp, and it works great. Schwalbe Marathon 590mm tires feel pretty good so far.







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