BigChief

Just google image searched Raleigh 20s. That is an extra long reach on those brakes. They must flex quite a bit. I'll bet a bolt on plate and those Tektros would improve braking a ton. I'd do it, even if it meant not having clearance for a rear fender

browngw 

After a few rides around town, I too found myself too close to the bars. I also found the saddle excruciating. The solution was actually in the saddle. It seems modern saddles are more oriented ton the rear of the clamp. The extra reach was just right and the saddle color looks good on the bike. Now perfect for leisurely around town rides.

markk900

Gorgeous. And looks showroom fresh. Much as I like the tradition of the black Raleighs, the coffee, gold, and other brighter variants are always a pleasure to see.

Velocivixen

[MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION] - the Tektro R559 is great for the front and too short for the rear. I ordered TEktro 800A and they're maybe 2mm too short for rear. They're dual pivot and the right side moves in an "up" motion, while the left side moves differently. I tried skinnier pads, but the right side still hits tire. Tried a Dremel attatchment to file down the slot for the right side brake pads, but was slow going. May need to buy a round file. So for now I reworked the original front caliper and am using it on the back...and it's terrible.

BigChief

Go with the drop bolt. You can get steel strips here:
McMaster-Carr
Cut to length, drill a couple holes and mount the Tektro where it needs to be.

Slash5

Just spent a couple of hours getting a Sachs Torpedo coaster hub working and adjusted on a junky Gazelle that I'm going to sell. Messed around for ages trying to get first gear working (it's a Sturmey Archer 3 speed shifter), finally checked the Internet and found out it's a 2 speed hub.
Bought it for a project but have decided to just move it on at cost, need the room.

Between the head angle and the fork, feels like riding a chopper.

Slash5

On my old Raleigh, the hub is dated 47 9 so I assume the bike is a 1948.
I assume that I'll just have to cut the grips off? They are broken and eroded. No chance of reusing them. Need them off so I can remove the levers and shifter to clean everything up. Marked "John Bull".

nlerner

Those John Bull grips are uber rare. If you can, I'd try to work a thin-bladed screw-driver under the open end, spray some WD-40 in there, and then try to rotate them while pulling them off. Perhaps there's a way to repair them.

Voere

All nice 3 speeds in this thread I have been working on this superbe almost done

Gasbag

I need some information when you remove the shifter. I'm presently resurrecting a 1948 CWS with an FW hub. It has the cloth covered cable but instead of the normally found crimped ferule to secure the cable in the shifter, it was knotted. It doesn't have the spread in the end to even accept a crimped stop. It does have a notched window on the back side to accept a cable with a molded end and there is even a chunk of one in there. I'm hoping that even though you have a GC3 trigger and mine is a GC4, the cable stop is the same. If you could post a picture of your cable as it attaches to the shifter, it would be of big help. Thanks.

Slash5

Sounds like the same. I assume I'm going to be sitting with a MTB brake cable and a file for a while.

Gasbag

Thanks for the quick response and the photo. That correctly answers what I assumed about the shifter.

Now a long shot of a question to the forum in general: The GC3 and GC4 appear to be identical in the cable slot. If the molded cable anchor is used, it only allows for three speeds. If you notice the slot at the outer end, that is where the cable needs to be for full 4-speed operation. The GC4 trigger unit appears to only have been used for two years, 1946 & 1947 and was replaced with the 3 or 4 speed GC2 and GC2A in 1948. The FW hub was introduced to the market in 1946 and mine has a date of 47-12. Does anyone have any idea how the cable would have been anchored or routed to actuate full four speed operation?

Here is my source of trigger information: https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanc...satriggers.pdf

Slash5

The disc is 2.9 mm thick. Just playing with an old normal shifter cable, reshaping the end with a hammer to the right thickness leaves the end close to the right size. A bit of touch up with a file will be close enough to work - I think.

gster

Variations on a theme.

Slash5

I was planning to go to that until I realized it was on the last day of the Pan Am games and right down where everything is happening. It will be nuts down there. Closing ceremonies start at 5.

gster

Not if you ride your bike!

Gasbag

I have a NOS ribbed cable of correct length. I am thinking I might try drilling a hardwood block as a jig mold and pouring an anchor using melted wheel weights. First I'll try with a test dummy cable to see if it will work. If it doesn't I'll follow your lead with a hammer and file. Fortunately my bicycle has stirrup brakes so I only have one cable to conjure. Unfortunately, the brakes are Phillips so I had to source Fibrax pads to keep it original. I cleaned my shifter in an ultrasonic bath and lubed it with a teflon oil and now it is real smooth. I was surprised how much crud was left in the tank after cleaning.

dweenk

Does anyone know if Sturmey Archer shifter pawl springs are available. I checked Harris Cyclery's website, but they only had springs for the hubs. Mine has this type of spring.



I was wondering if the more modern spring would work.

arex

Might be able to fabricate one from a suitable gauge of piano wire.

clubman 

I've tried to save a dozen or so pairs of those but the rubber just rots with time. I have one set and I'm afraid to let it see daylight.

3speedslow

I vote for the last one ! One drawback from moving to this coastal area is no vintage bike events.

Looks like fun.

Gasbag

I don't believe the SA triggers were serviceable and as many searches as I've done for English bike parts I have never seen individual components for them. I can't see it very well in the photo, but if it's a patent 498820 there are many variations through the years (1950 and up) that are marked with the 498820 patent number that could become parts donors. It's been a couple of years since I repaired one myself and I recall it being a booger to get back together with strong spring tension. If I recall correctly, I had to use a seal pick to align and hold it so that the rivet could be pressed back in.

BigChief

That doesn't look too hard to to do with some patience, a couple pairs of pliers and a bench vise. A hardware store would have a selection of springs to choose from. You should be able to find one with the same diameter wire.

Gasbag

A torsion spring won't work, it has to be a flat spring. A gunsmith possibly could provide the spring material if you have one in the area and you wanted to try shaping one.

BigChief

Oh, It looked like a wire spring in the photo. Making that part out of flat, spring tempered shim stock would be much more work. You can get material at McMaster-Carr, but it would be 15 dollars for a 1"x 16" strip. Not very practical, but the exact thickness of the stock is available. Cutting the width would be a bear.