For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Miss Molly's problem was not the clutch spring, but the shifter. Specifically having to do with the pawl and spring. Used a screwdriver to pry it up, not it just hangs there loosey goosey. I had another one exactly the same only with a yellowed plastic face plate. Used that shifter and other clear face plate and all is well with the world.
With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.
With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.
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I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.
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New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
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New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.
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New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
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Beautiful bike.
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.






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Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!
Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)
Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..
Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)
Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..

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The bike ride from Lexington to West Newton can be quite nice!
I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.
I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.
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You are lucky - some of the local BBS's around here used to carry ball bearings years ago, but no more....when I need them I usually just go to the local bike shop and buy what I need from them. Not usually $0.20 each mind you, but not too bad.
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Both Ace and TruValue have been known to carry ball bearings. But each store is somewhat unique so it is not always the case. However, I am running BBs from TruValue in both my running E3Ss.
On these North Road bars, should the handle grip section be parallel to the TT, up or down? I had mine level and that seemed maybe a little awkward (maybe, maybe not) so I have rotated then down ever so slight. How do you guys set yours?
On those mattress type saddles with the springs under the saddle piece, do you set them higher than normal because the springs compress lowering effective saddle height?
On these North Road bars, should the handle grip section be parallel to the TT, up or down? I had mine level and that seemed maybe a little awkward (maybe, maybe not) so I have rotated then down ever so slight. How do you guys set yours?
On those mattress type saddles with the springs under the saddle piece, do you set them higher than normal because the springs compress lowering effective saddle height?
Last edited by Loose Chain; 05-15-16 at 09:44 PM.
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I did an overhaul of an AW 3-speed. I just love doing these. It's very relaxing.
Driver by velocivixen, on
Ball Ring by velocivixen, on
Gear Ring by velocivixen, on
Planet Cage with Sun Pinions by velocivixen, on
Assembled outside Hub Shell by velocivixen, on
Left & Right Cones, lock washers, etc. by velocivixen, on Flickr






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Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!
Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)
Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..
Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)
Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:

Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread

All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell

And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?

Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..

No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.
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Though my Raleigh Superbe has been officially retired from kid hauling duty (have built a Miyata Valley Runner with tagalong trailer for that now), I still want to keep my daughter riding a 3 speed. This came in to the community workshop a couple of weeks ago and I just had to have it. Not a typical kids bike, instead, a scaled down version of a full size ride. Never heard of Swiss Olympic before, but the AW is stamped 1986. Hopefully, once she's comfortable enough to get on her own 2 wheeler, she'll be interested in it, at least it's pink!
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Every DL-1 I've ever seen has plain wire fender stays bent in a loop that goes on the axle. This one has a tab brazed on that looks like it wouldn't clear the seat stay if you put it on the axle.
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I like this job too. Although, I might be slipping. When I cleaned up the hub on my latest project, the ball ring cap wouldn't budge. I have to admit, I didn't bother fighting with it to properly clean and replace the bearings. I just soaked it in paint thinner, sprayed it out with the air gun, stuffed in some grease and called it good. There is still that little voice in my head admonishing me for taking short cuts, but it's not as loud as it used to be.
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^^ Blowing it out with an air gun after soaking does a very good job of cleaning it out, I would not worry.
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That looks like a beefy little bike...she'll be able to ride the hell out of that.
Though my Raleigh Superbe has been officially retired from kid hauling duty (have built a Miyata Valley Runner with tagalong trailer for that now), I still want to keep my daughter riding a 3 speed. This came in to the community workshop a couple of weeks ago and I just had to have it. Not a typical kids bike, instead, a scaled down version of a full size ride. Never heard of Swiss Olympic before, but the AW is stamped 1986. Hopefully, once she's comfortable enough to get on her own 2 wheeler, she'll be interested in it, at least it's pink!

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Last edited by clubman; 05-16-16 at 07:53 AM. Reason: 57 not 59
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Anyone know where I might score a set of the springs used to hold the lens and reflector in place on an old SA light? I had a single spring, but misplaced it last night, and the single one wasn't sufficient anyway.



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That is definitely NOT a rebadged Raleigh.!
What you have there is a Dawes Kingpin. Dawes sold loads of these in around the same era that Raleigh were knocking out the 20 (in its various guises).
Allegedly, they're meant to give a slightly sportier ride than a 20, and they're meant to be a bit lighter as well (only a bit though).
We have a scabby example of both machines in the cellar at my local Bike Kitchen. Neither have hinges though. I'm not sure whether to take a punt on one of them as a project. Mainly as I don't have room for more bikes at the moment...
What you have there is a Dawes Kingpin. Dawes sold loads of these in around the same era that Raleigh were knocking out the 20 (in its various guises).
Allegedly, they're meant to give a slightly sportier ride than a 20, and they're meant to be a bit lighter as well (only a bit though).
We have a scabby example of both machines in the cellar at my local Bike Kitchen. Neither have hinges though. I'm not sure whether to take a punt on one of them as a project. Mainly as I don't have room for more bikes at the moment...
Last edited by Fidbloke; 05-16-16 at 12:13 PM.