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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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Old 05-15-16, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Miss Molly's problem was not the clutch spring, but the shifter. Specifically having to do with the pawl and spring. Used a screwdriver to pry it up, not it just hangs there loosey goosey. I had another one exactly the same only with a yellowed plastic face plate. Used that shifter and other clear face plate and all is well with the world.

With th the flick shifter the way to install a cable is to pull the trigger down past "1" and an internal part of the shifter forces open the pawl just enough to guide the cable into place. Well that wasn't happening on the original shifter. So somehow that made it so going from "2" to "3" I had to actively push the lever into place. Now I just flick the lever and it clicks right into place.
Hooray for Flick and Click functionality!
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Old 05-15-16, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.
Truly a superb Superbe!
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Old 05-15-16, 08:00 AM
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New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
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Old 05-15-16, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by w1gfh
New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
The bike ride from Lexington to West Newton can be quite nice!

I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.
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Old 05-15-16, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by w1gfh
New question: I need to service the front hub on my 3 speed 68 Sports. Would like to replace and grease the bearings. Can I buy the 3/16" ball bearings (10 each side) somewhere convenient like Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot (or other hardware store) or must I make the trafficky drive to a vintage bike specialist like Harris Cyclery in the city?
My favorite source of ball bearings is
Ballbaron.com
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Old 05-15-16, 08:26 AM
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Beautiful bike.

Originally Posted by Narhay
I had two flat tires on Wednesday. The rim tape wasn't wide enough and poked holes in both my tubes. I repaired them, adjusted the rear hub, replaced the rim tape with some I didn't know I had and tossed the chain in the ultrasonic cleaner. I did add the Zimbale bag to the bike last month. I like the size but it does hang at a funny angle and I can hit it with the back of my legs if I want to. It is fine otherwise and excellent quality.





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Old 05-15-16, 08:42 AM
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On the local buy and sell. A rebadged 20?



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Old 05-15-16, 09:26 AM
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Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!

Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)

Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:




Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread




All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell




And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?



Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..
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Old 05-15-16, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Slash5
On the local buy and sell. A rebadged 20?



Did you buy? Would be sacrilege if Dawes, who was in competition with Raleigh, used someone else's frame. I vote no.
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Old 05-15-16, 10:32 AM
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No, it's about 2 hrs away. I didn't notice the brace to the headtube before so obviously not a 20.
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Old 05-15-16, 11:34 AM
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I think you should get it....just for fun. IF it's not crazy spendy.
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Old 05-15-16, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Slash5
No, it's about 2 hrs away. I didn't notice the brace to the headtube before so obviously not a 20.
The hinge is different, too.
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Old 05-15-16, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
The bike ride from Lexington to West Newton can be quite nice!

I've never looked for bbs at the big box hardware stores, but it might be worth a call to see what they have. Also, a local hardware store might actually stock them. But if you can wait, I'd just order online. Lots of vendors on eBay or Amazon.
I went to the local ACE hardware and found them in the bins for 20 cents ea. Thanx for the tip, Neal.
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Old 05-15-16, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by w1gfh
I went to the local ACE hardware and found them in the bins for 20 cents ea. Thanx for the tip, Neal.
You are lucky - some of the local BBS's around here used to carry ball bearings years ago, but no more....when I need them I usually just go to the local bike shop and buy what I need from them. Not usually $0.20 each mind you, but not too bad.
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Old 05-15-16, 07:05 PM
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Both Ace and TruValue have been known to carry ball bearings. But each store is somewhat unique so it is not always the case. However, I am running BBs from TruValue in both my running E3Ss.

On these North Road bars, should the handle grip section be parallel to the TT, up or down? I had mine level and that seemed maybe a little awkward (maybe, maybe not) so I have rotated then down ever so slight. How do you guys set yours?

On those mattress type saddles with the springs under the saddle piece, do you set them higher than normal because the springs compress lowering effective saddle height?

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Old 05-15-16, 11:37 PM
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I did an overhaul of an AW 3-speed. I just love doing these. It's very relaxing.
Driver by velocivixen, on Ball Ring by velocivixen, on Gear Ring by velocivixen, on Planet Cage with Sun Pinions by velocivixen, on Assembled outside Hub Shell by velocivixen, on Left & Right Cones, lock washers, etc. by velocivixen, on Flickr
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Old 05-16-16, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Narsinha
Some phantastic old bicycles to see here!

Still same problems.. have posted some photos, maybe someone can give a hint whether this is ok or not (order of mounting nuts, shims, stays)

Diagonal stay from saddle, racket stay and mudguard stays loos, have all to be mounted at the upper screw, NOT on the axle as i found out the hard way:




Same as above with screw. Screw is too short, prone to ruining the thread in the longeron. Also realiozed the screws do not fit to the threads, they had been srewed on with brute force, ruining either the screw or the outer thread




All from the rear: Is this order of nut/shim etc. right? Please! Can someone tell




And the right side, does the square locking tin "screw" directly touch the inner longeron, or does a shim have to be placed there?



Please, i am becoming less sure everytime i try to assemble this ..

No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.
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Old 05-16-16, 04:50 AM
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Though my Raleigh Superbe has been officially retired from kid hauling duty (have built a Miyata Valley Runner with tagalong trailer for that now), I still want to keep my daughter riding a 3 speed. This came in to the community workshop a couple of weeks ago and I just had to have it. Not a typical kids bike, instead, a scaled down version of a full size ride. Never heard of Swiss Olympic before, but the AW is stamped 1986. Hopefully, once she's comfortable enough to get on her own 2 wheeler, she'll be interested in it, at least it's pink!

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Old 05-16-16, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by shadaboot28
No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.
Every DL-1 I've ever seen has plain wire fender stays bent in a loop that goes on the axle. This one has a tab brazed on that looks like it wouldn't clear the seat stay if you put it on the axle.
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Old 05-16-16, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
I did an overhaul of an AW 3-speed. I just love doing these. It's very relaxing.
I like this job too. Although, I might be slipping. When I cleaned up the hub on my latest project, the ball ring cap wouldn't budge. I have to admit, I didn't bother fighting with it to properly clean and replace the bearings. I just soaked it in paint thinner, sprayed it out with the air gun, stuffed in some grease and called it good. There is still that little voice in my head admonishing me for taking short cuts, but it's not as loud as it used to be.
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Old 05-16-16, 07:02 AM
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^^ Blowing it out with an air gun after soaking does a very good job of cleaning it out, I would not worry.
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Old 05-16-16, 07:28 AM
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That looks like a beefy little bike...she'll be able to ride the hell out of that.
Originally Posted by Commando
Though my Raleigh Superbe has been officially retired from kid hauling duty (have built a Miyata Valley Runner with tagalong trailer for that now), I still want to keep my daughter riding a 3 speed. This came in to the community workshop a couple of weeks ago and I just had to have it. Not a typical kids bike, instead, a scaled down version of a full size ride. Never heard of Swiss Olympic before, but the AW is stamped 1986. Hopefully, once she's comfortable enough to get on her own 2 wheeler, she'll be interested in it, at least it's pink!

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Old 05-16-16, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by shadaboot28
No you have done it wrong. The rack and mudguard stays should both bolt onto the rear hub axle.
Not necessarily the case with all Raleigh roadsters. It might be an export model thing as this bike is Canadian and the OP's is in Germany. @Narsinha.This is an original 57 womens roadster and has the same mounting point for the mudguard. There is one very thin and small washer under each nut on each side, best seen in the last pic. I don't think a rack could clear the mudguard to get to the axle and would have to mount at same position. You can see this type of mount in the '54 catalogue.




Last edited by clubman; 05-16-16 at 07:53 AM. Reason: 57 not 59
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Old 05-16-16, 12:02 PM
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Anyone know where I might score a set of the springs used to hold the lens and reflector in place on an old SA light? I had a single spring, but misplaced it last night, and the single one wasn't sufficient anyway.


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Old 05-16-16, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Slash5
On the local buy and sell. A rebadged 20?



That is definitely NOT a rebadged Raleigh.!
What you have there is a Dawes Kingpin. Dawes sold loads of these in around the same era that Raleigh were knocking out the 20 (in its various guises).
Allegedly, they're meant to give a slightly sportier ride than a 20, and they're meant to be a bit lighter as well (only a bit though).

We have a scabby example of both machines in the cellar at my local Bike Kitchen. Neither have hinges though. I'm not sure whether to take a punt on one of them as a project. Mainly as I don't have room for more bikes at the moment...

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