Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 08-02-18, 09:56 PM
  #17576  
Senior Member
 
Buellster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 755
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism
Look on the left side or front/rear of the seat tube just below the seat cluster for the serial number. It might be a very faint stamping. It would be a shame to part it out but someone would probably like to have the frame. I'd take the brake levers, cables and calipers.
its hard to see in the photo but the top tube is in very rough shape. It has almost as much patena as paint. It's not structural rust but without a new paint job it would be pretty pock marked.
it also looks as though someone cranked down way to hard on one of those sandwiching kick stands and the frame has two compressed spots just behind the bottom bracket, about were a kickstand would sit.
I'd love to restore and old raliegh, but I dont know if this poor fella is a good candidate.
Buellster is offline  
Old 08-02-18, 10:09 PM
  #17577  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,091

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 701 Times in 266 Posts
Originally Posted by Buellster
I know it's not anything amazing, but what is the general feel on late 70s AW hubs? It is in great co edition and I'm using it regardless I'm just curious where these fall in the Raliegh quaility hierarchy.
They're usually fine. The overall quality is a bit below that of earlier hubs, but usully they work fine. The main flaw is the plastic clutch spring cap degrades with long-term oil exposure. This is on the mid and late 70s hubs. You can replace with a metal cap if need be. Yes, the earlier hubs are nicer in general, but the 70s hubs usually run just fine with basic care.

The internet blows things way out of proportion, and you get this nonsense about how the, "70s Raleighs are junk". They did have cost cutting, and the earlier stuff is nicer, but the 70s bikes are usually fine and function without a hitch, especially if well-kept. Somehow this turns into bashing the 70s era bikes by some. I defended the 70s Raleighs on my site before, and stick by it. They aren't perfect bikes, but they often give good service and are affordable.

Keep the bike, clean it up, and ride it. I will bet you'll love it.
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 08-02-18, 11:27 PM
  #17578  
Senior Member
 
Buellster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 755
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
They're usually fine. The overall quality is a bit below that of earlier hubs, but usully they work fine. The main flaw is the plastic clutch spring cap degrades with long-term oil exposure. This is on the mid and late 70s hubs. You can replace with a metal cap if need be. Yes, the earlier hubs are nicer in general, but the 70s hubs usually run just fine with basic care.

The internet blows things way out of proportion, and you get this nonsense about how the, "70s Raleighs are junk". They did have cost cutting, and the earlier stuff is nicer, but the 70s bikes are usually fine and function without a hitch, especially if well-kept. Somehow this turns into bashing the 70s era bikes by some. I defended the 70s Raleighs on my site before, and stick by it. They aren't perfect bikes, but they often give good service and are affordable.

Keep the bike, clean it up, and ride it. I will bet you'll love it.
That was what I figured. I'm not concerned with the quality, I'm quite happy with what I've got here. I did buy it for the parts to convert my Harding over. As I said above the frame is in rough shape. More so it's a 21" frame and I'm 6 2. Its a tight fit. If it were in better shape I may try and make it work but as it sits not so much. My current plan is to have a 700c wheel built with this hub in it and put it and the front cog on my Harding bike.

At 58 CM this is much more my size and with a 3 speed I wont have a pesky claw on derailur to deal with.
Buellster is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 01:30 AM
  #17579  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 844

Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 327 Post(s)
Liked 316 Times in 179 Posts
Modern cotter pins.

I needed some new cotter pins, after I recklessly butchered some 1940s originals. I asked my LBS owner if he had some new ones I could replace them with . With considerable trepidation he handed me some nice new Chicom ones and " They're free but you won't believe how crap they are". Never look a gift horse in the mouth and I went off with a handful freebie cotter pins.

Anyways I'm now starting to believe - but we are where we are.
I was just wondering is it because I'm not scribing them properly . If so, how best do you shape/file a Chicom cotter pin to ensure you get a reasonable number of miles before they get loose and start driving you crazy.
Johno59 is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 03:57 AM
  #17580  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59
I needed some new cotter pins, after I recklessly butchered some 1940s originals. I asked my LBS owner if he had some new ones I could replace them with . With considerable trepidation he handed me some nice new Chicom ones and " They're free but you won't believe how crap they are". Never look a gift horse in the mouth and I went off with a handful freebie cotter pins.

Anyways I'm now starting to believe - but we are where we are.
I was just wondering is it because I'm not scribing them properly . If so, how best do you shape/file a Chicom cotter pin to ensure you get a reasonable number of miles before they get loose and start driving you crazy.
It can be very tricky shaping cotters without a surface grinder. Modern cheapo cotters are pretty far off from fitting Raleigh cranks. Getting a proper fit while also getting a 180 degree spread of the crank arms isn't easy filing by hand. It is possible with patience or you could save yourself the hassle by buying Raleigh cut cotters from Mark at Bikesmith. Edit to add...his cotters are also of a much higher quality to begin with, then he grinds them accurately to fit Raleigh cranks.
BikeSmith Design and Fabrication
__________________
Inflate Hard

Last edited by BigChief; 08-03-18 at 05:00 AM.
BigChief is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 05:10 AM
  #17581  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by Buellster
That was what I figured. I'm not concerned with the quality, I'm quite happy with what I've got here. I did buy it for the parts to convert my Harding over. As I said above the frame is in rough shape. More so it's a 21" frame and I'm 6 2. Its a tight fit. If it were in better shape I may try and make it work but as it sits not so much. My current plan is to have a 700c wheel built with this hub in it and put it and the front cog on my Harding bike.

At 58 CM this is much more my size and with a 3 speed I wont have a pesky claw on derailur to deal with.
If your plan is to convert this bike to a 3 speed then I would build your wheel as planned, leave the BB and crank as is
and then swap out the rear cog on the hub to suit your riding style. Standard factory cog was a 18T but new cogs are inexpensive and you
can move up to a 22T. I prefer a 20T.
Only problem could be chain size, as a 10 speed chain is different than a 3 speed.
I'm pretty sure you can get a rear cog compatible with the existing ring.
I wouldn't start any work until you have a compatible rear cog.
Even then you'll have to pack out the hub for a good fit...
Or, wait for a taller Raleigh.
gster is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 05:25 AM
  #17582  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 16,909
Mentioned: 468 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3680 Post(s)
Liked 6,078 Times in 2,434 Posts
A 1/8Ē chain will work fine on a chainring designed for a 3/32 chain. You just canít go in the other direction (i.e., canít run a 3/32Ē chain on a Raleigh Heron crankset).
nlerner is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 09:22 AM
  #17583  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
A 1/8Ē chain will work fine on a chainring designed for a 3/32 chain. You just canít go in the other direction (i.e., canít run a 3/32Ē chain on a Raleigh Heron crankset).
Good to know. GTK
gster is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 09:36 AM
  #17584  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 634
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 230 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times in 11 Posts
Originally Posted by Johno59
I needed some new cotter pins, after I recklessly butchered some 1940s originals. I asked my LBS owner if he had some new ones I could replace them with . With considerable trepidation he handed me some nice new Chicom ones and " They're free but you won't believe how crap they are". Never look a gift horse in the mouth and I went off with a handful freebie cotter pins.

Anyways I'm now starting to believe - but we are where we are.
I was just wondering is it because I'm not scribing them properly . If so, how best do you shape/file a Chicom cotter pin to ensure you get a reasonable number of miles before they get loose and start driving you crazy.
"Chicom"? Good grief.
Cute Boy Horse is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 09:41 AM
  #17585  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,091

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 701 Times in 266 Posts
Originally Posted by Buellster
That was what I figured. I'm not concerned with the quality, I'm quite happy with what I've got here. I did buy it for the parts to convert my Harding over. As I said above the frame is in rough shape. More so it's a 21" frame and I'm 6 2. Its a tight fit. If it were in better shape I may try and make it work but as it sits not so much. My current plan is to have a 700c wheel built with this hub in it and put it and the front cog on my Harding bike.

At 58 CM this is much more my size and with a 3 speed I wont have a pesky claw on derailur to deal with.
At that height, the 21 inch frame Sports is probably way too small. The hub should serve you well on that Harding once you're all set up.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 09:57 AM
  #17586  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 402 Post(s)
Liked 143 Times in 106 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
What size does this look like to you?

Seller claim it is "Medium". Is this too big for me (5'7") to ride?

Looks like a 23". Early 70s I'd guess and nice looking. Is it in Texas?

I'm 5'6 and a 21" Sports is what I ride. That's about the upper size limit for me. Others here who are about 5'6 - 5'8 ride the 23" bikes and say they fit fine, so you just have to check it out.

People are taller than the used to be and there are a lot more 21" than 23" Raleigh Sports around so the 23" bikes seem to be more valuable than the 21". If the price is reasonable you can probably sell it along if it turns out to be too big.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 12:01 PM
  #17587  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,091

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 701 Times in 266 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
What size does this look like to you?

Seller claim it is "Medium". Is this too big for me (5'7") to ride?

That's a 23 inch frame from the mid-1970s. It looks like it has self-adjusting brakes and the decals are mid-70s style. I'm 5ft 7in and find the 23 inch frame perfect on the 26 inch wheels, but I like riding the tallest frame I can comfortably fit.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 12:58 PM
  #17588  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse
"Chicom"? Good grief.
I had to look it up.
gster is offline  
Old 08-03-18, 01:09 PM
  #17589  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by desconhecido
Looks like a 23". Early 70s I'd guess and nice looking. Is it in Texas?

I'm 5'6 and a 21" Sports is what I ride. That's about the upper size limit for me. Others here who are about 5'6 - 5'8 ride the 23" bikes and say they fit fine, so you just have to check it out.

People are taller than the used to be and there are a lot more 21" than 23" Raleigh Sports around so the 23" bikes seem to be more valuable than the 21". If the price is reasonable you can probably sell it along if it turns out to be too big.
Yes, 23" frame.
gster is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 05:41 AM
  #17590  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Ridiculous CCM Mustang
Popped up on Kijiji, Toronto this am
CCM Mustang w/ SA 5 Speed hub.
Asking price.....
$5000.00!
gster is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 10:23 AM
  #17591  
On the road
 
SirMike1983's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,091

Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 701 Times in 266 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
It can be very tricky shaping cotters without a surface grinder. Modern cheapo cotters are pretty far off from fitting Raleigh cranks. Getting a proper fit while also getting a 180 degree spread of the crank arms isn't easy filing by hand. It is possible with patience or you could save yourself the hassle by buying Raleigh cut cotters from Mark at Bikesmith. Edit to add...his cotters are also of a much higher quality to begin with, then he grinds them accurately to fit Raleigh cranks.
BikeSmith Design and Fabrication
Everything I've bought from Bikesmith has been excellent and worth every penny spent. The Grade A cotters are of outstanding quality, and the tools he sells are very helpful. The commonly available cotter pins are very soft, and just pinched-off bar stock with some pretty crude finishing work done on them. The Bikesmith Grade A is the best cotter pin I have found on the market. The cotter press is especially nice to have if you're working with old bikes.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
SirMike1983 is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 12:37 PM
  #17592  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,783

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 131 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2269 Post(s)
Liked 1,968 Times in 1,217 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
Ridiculous CCM Mustang
Popped up on Kijiji, Toronto this am
CCM Mustang w/ SA 5 Speed hub.
Asking price.....
$5000.00!
If it ain't Scottish, it's CRAP! What a joke.
clubman is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 01:48 PM
  #17593  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 16,909
Mentioned: 468 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3680 Post(s)
Liked 6,078 Times in 2,434 Posts
Here's a 21" Drake S-A 3-speed for sale in the Boston area for small money. One of those downmarket Raleighs, I suppose:

https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bi...660628478.html



nlerner is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 02:20 PM
  #17594  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
has any using those expensive Schwalbe Marathon tires?
i need something that is more resistence to puncture then Kenda.

rodes has more and more crap now.
Never tried the Schwalbe. You could also consider Continental City Ride II tires. They claim to be puncture resistant. I like the 28" Contis on my DL-1. So far, so good.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 02:36 PM
  #17595  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman
If it ain't Scottish, it's CRAP! What a joke.
That listing has been removed.
Perhaps it was mis-listed....
gster is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 02:37 PM
  #17596  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner
Here's a 21" Drake S-A 3-speed for sale in the Boston area for small money. One of those downmarket Raleighs, I suppose:

https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bi...660628478.html



A lot of bike for $35.00.
gster is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 02:50 PM
  #17597  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,797
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 402 Post(s)
Liked 143 Times in 106 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
has any using those expensive Schwalbe Marathon tires?
i need something that is more resistence to puncture then Kenda.

rodes has more and more crap now.
Yes, the Marathon Plus, and I am an advocate. I've been using them since I bought my first Sports in 2010 and I've put a bunch of miles on them and have had just one flat -- a construction nail, one of those that are power hammered into that cement siding (Hardi Plank). But, it wasn't power hammered into my tire, I rode over it.

When new, the 590 tires are tight, tight, tight, but I've had them off since new and after a while they seem to be ok. I think that they probably make them a little tight because a lot of 590 rims don't have hooks, but that's just a guess.
Anyway, they are tough and durable tires though no lightweights. Of course, we're talking about Raleigh Sports here so lightweight is not necessarily a demanding consideration.

Another thing about those Schwalbe tires, they don't seem to deteriorate with age. My experience with Panaracer Paselas, for example, is not nearly so good.

edit:

The Schwalbes also have those glow-in-the-dark sidewalls.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 08-04-18, 09:10 PM
  #17598  
Senior Member
 
browngw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,515

Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 459 Times in 200 Posts
Originally Posted by mtb_addict
has any using those expensive Schwalbe Marathon tires?
i need something that is more resistence to puncture then Kenda.

rodes has more and more crap now.
Using the Marathons on S.W.A.T. After changing two rear flats with that full chain
case nightmare, I changed to the Schwalbe Marathons and have been flat free for two years.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
browngw is offline  
Old 08-05-18, 07:49 AM
  #17599  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Leather Saddle Dye
I decided to change the colour of a couple of saddles and to refurbish a couple more.

I bought a bottle of leather dye @ about $8.00

I did a quick pass on an old French saddle I had that was a dark/worn brown.
I've decided that I prefer black saddles on my bikes.
The test went well.
Time for the Honey Brooks...

I'll finish up (when dry) with a treatment of Mink Oil.

Hopefully the dye will "fix" and it won't come off on my pants.
Recommend you do this outside as this dye is quite permanent.
The finish is quite nice. I would call it a satin finish with minimal sheen.

Last edited by gster; 08-05-18 at 08:07 AM.
gster is offline  
Old 08-05-18, 07:53 AM
  #17600  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,562

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 407 Times in 279 Posts
Toronto Vintage Bicycle Show
The TVBS didn't happen this summer for a couple of reasons.
I'm hoping to revive it next year.
As a consolation. I had my own mini show last night in my
back yard for the benefit of 2 or 3 friends....



gster is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.