SA Adjustment Help
#1
Thread Starter
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From: New Haven, CT area
Bikes: Trek 7.5 Hybrid, Trek 1.1 Road, Holdsworth touring,Raleigh International,Ritchey Commando,Italvega Speciallissimo,et.al.
SA Adjustment Help
Hello All,
I have a perplexing SA adjustment problem that is driving me up the wall. I have posted this problem earlier, and I just cannot get this bike adjusted properly. So, help is still needed.I have an early 70's Humber Ladies SA 3 speed. No matter how I adjust the SA cable tension, it either skips in 2nd or 1rst gear. I have had to install a replacement Japanese copy SA trigger, along with a new cable. I have tried a couple of different indicator spindles, with no difference in the problem. If I set up the cable tension correctly, it skips in 2nd. If I set it up with the cable super loose, 2nd is ok, then it skips in 1rst. Am going out of mind in this one, because I truly feel that it is something external, and not something wrong with the hub inside. The shifter moves fine, the fulcrum is tight, the pulley is moving. I have put the bike on a work stand, disconnected the cable, and checked that there is correct differences in the rotation of the gear on the hub, to show that there actually is a first, second and third gear . I am open to all advice and suggestions from any and all Sturmey Archer gurus, because this one is driving me nuts. Help !
I have a perplexing SA adjustment problem that is driving me up the wall. I have posted this problem earlier, and I just cannot get this bike adjusted properly. So, help is still needed.I have an early 70's Humber Ladies SA 3 speed. No matter how I adjust the SA cable tension, it either skips in 2nd or 1rst gear. I have had to install a replacement Japanese copy SA trigger, along with a new cable. I have tried a couple of different indicator spindles, with no difference in the problem. If I set up the cable tension correctly, it skips in 2nd. If I set it up with the cable super loose, 2nd is ok, then it skips in 1rst. Am going out of mind in this one, because I truly feel that it is something external, and not something wrong with the hub inside. The shifter moves fine, the fulcrum is tight, the pulley is moving. I have put the bike on a work stand, disconnected the cable, and checked that there is correct differences in the rotation of the gear on the hub, to show that there actually is a first, second and third gear . I am open to all advice and suggestions from any and all Sturmey Archer gurus, because this one is driving me nuts. Help !
#2
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,340
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
What makes you sure that the internals are fine? Sounds like you have a bad clutch or pawls.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
When it skips in 1st or 2nd, what position is the trigger in?
There are a few confusing matters here. Are the hub nuts and spacers put back on the way they came off? Is the drive side nut the one with the little window? Is the original little spindle with chain still available to you? If it's not available to you, I'd think you need one that was made for a Raleigh Sport or Raleigh Superbe 3-speed. These details all affect teh position of the shoulder on the adjuster spindle.
If you slowly adjust the cable tension, i.e. length, you really should find a position where the hub will shift into all three gears and stay in each one, since all three gears are present. It's possible something is messed up inside, but probably the best way to determine that is to make sure it's lubed and try to adjust it the right way and confirm that it is not possible to do so.
Another thing is to drip maybe three drops of motor oil into the little oil hole, just to make sure some lube is in there. That should make sure everything is moving freely inside the hub.
The original Sturmey Archer information is on Sheldon Brown's site: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/service.html.
Before spraying any WD-40 inside, I'd suggest checking how Sheldon recommended un-gumming the internals. WD-40 is a cleaner that contains a mild lube, but one that doesn't last long. Soon you'll have bare metal on metal inside the hub. The hubs like certain types of oil, and not grease. The Sturmey service instructions in the link should explain what oils are good ane which ones are not. Caveat: If Sheldon says WD-40 is ok, it probably is, but my opinion is still that if you happen to have the kind of oil Sturmey recommended, that's a better choice. These are old ladies that you're dealing with.
There are a few confusing matters here. Are the hub nuts and spacers put back on the way they came off? Is the drive side nut the one with the little window? Is the original little spindle with chain still available to you? If it's not available to you, I'd think you need one that was made for a Raleigh Sport or Raleigh Superbe 3-speed. These details all affect teh position of the shoulder on the adjuster spindle.
If you slowly adjust the cable tension, i.e. length, you really should find a position where the hub will shift into all three gears and stay in each one, since all three gears are present. It's possible something is messed up inside, but probably the best way to determine that is to make sure it's lubed and try to adjust it the right way and confirm that it is not possible to do so.
Another thing is to drip maybe three drops of motor oil into the little oil hole, just to make sure some lube is in there. That should make sure everything is moving freely inside the hub.
The original Sturmey Archer information is on Sheldon Brown's site: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/service.html.
Before spraying any WD-40 inside, I'd suggest checking how Sheldon recommended un-gumming the internals. WD-40 is a cleaner that contains a mild lube, but one that doesn't last long. Soon you'll have bare metal on metal inside the hub. The hubs like certain types of oil, and not grease. The Sturmey service instructions in the link should explain what oils are good ane which ones are not. Caveat: If Sheldon says WD-40 is ok, it probably is, but my opinion is still that if you happen to have the kind of oil Sturmey recommended, that's a better choice. These are old ladies that you're dealing with.
Last edited by Road Fan; 06-05-10 at 05:28 AM.
#6
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From: New Haven, CT area
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Well, from all the advice, it sounds like there may be something wrong inside. The thing that throws me is that by adjusting the cable tension, I can affect if the bike slips in 2nd or 1rst.
Yes I have oiled the hub. I am quite certain that the spacers , etc. are on correctly. I have worked on SA and Shimano 3 speed hubs , but it has been many years since I took the internals apart. The SA indicator is the original. I have only replaced the trigger, cable and pulley assembly. It skips both on the bike stand, and while riding it.
If the cluthc or pawls are worn inside, will those affect how I adjust the exterior cable adjustment ?
Yes I have oiled the hub. I am quite certain that the spacers , etc. are on correctly. I have worked on SA and Shimano 3 speed hubs , but it has been many years since I took the internals apart. The SA indicator is the original. I have only replaced the trigger, cable and pulley assembly. It skips both on the bike stand, and while riding it.
If the cluthc or pawls are worn inside, will those affect how I adjust the exterior cable adjustment ?
#7
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,340
Likes: 6,640
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
An AW hub should never slip in first. This is not an adjustment problem.
To answer your question, no, this wear doesn't affect adjustment.
If it slips on the stand, you have a seriously worn clutch. Pop a new one in, and it will be like magic.
Neal, do you ever see weak pawl springs? I think I have, but it's been a long time for me.
To answer your question, no, this wear doesn't affect adjustment.
If it slips on the stand, you have a seriously worn clutch. Pop a new one in, and it will be like magic.
Neal, do you ever see weak pawl springs? I think I have, but it's been a long time for me.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,418
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From: New Haven, CT area
Bikes: Trek 7.5 Hybrid, Trek 1.1 Road, Holdsworth touring,Raleigh International,Ritchey Commando,Italvega Speciallissimo,et.al.
When I put the bike on the stand, disconnect the cable, and pull the indicator out all the way, the bike slips in 1rst. So, it seems like worn out internals. Where in heavens name does one order internal SA parts in today's world ? These are specialized parts and I wonder who stocks them ?
#9
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
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When I put the bike on the stand, disconnect the cable, and pull the indicator out all the way, the bike slips in 1rst. So, it seems like worn out internals. Where in heavens name does one order internal SA parts in today's world ? These are specialized parts and I wonder who stocks them ?
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi (search for "Sturmey Archer")
https://www.oldbiketrader.co.uk/displ...ternalhubparts
If you're just looking for a spare clutch, send me a PM; I'd be glad to pop one in an envelope.
Neal
#10
Count Orlok Member

Joined: May 2009
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From: St. Paul, MN
Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Raleigh DL1, Schwinn Winter Bike
#11
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
When I put the bike on the stand, disconnect the cable, and pull the indicator out all the way, the bike slips in 1rst. So, it seems like worn out internals. Where in heavens name does one order internal SA parts in today's world ? These are specialized parts and I wonder who stocks them ?






