What exact material are the '75 era Campy dropouts made of?
I'm thinking of having someone weld an existing damaged droput, rather than replace it.

See in the pics that the dropout "failed" on both sides of the set screw. I can still ride the thing, and have, as long as I clamp the axel really tight. (hey..watch this..)

My thinking is to have someone lay a weld, schmear a weld, whatever along the damaged lines..maybe even weld a washer to span the cracked seam on that area for more structure.

Any advice?






thanks

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

those guys are dreaming, I couldn't sell my rear 1010a dropouts, no bids. I think I listed them for $10.

Depends on the bike and your attachment to the chrome. Chrome will need to be removed to some distance from the weld. I would have it tig welded, almost no point to any other process unless you can find a real artist. But a real artist would probably choose to use TIG

Thanks OFG and unter,
I think I saw those but money is tight.
I'm not a welder but it seema like putting new dropouts in will be a PITA, loss of chrome, and costly.
I think I can have someone weld for a six pack.


Feeler
[OTOH...I may sell the bike, a 67+cm (not a typo) '75 Paramount]


edit...so I'm assuming these are steel dropouts...but anything else I should know about the tyoe or quality of steel??

i'm considering doing the same thing with a broken campy 1010/b. this thread seems to indicate that welding the dropout isn't a bad idea: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...n-rear-dropout

Seems like a fair price to me. Brand new... all 4 with adjustment screws. Just because yours didn't sell does not define the market.

They are forged steel... if it means restoring a Paramount frame the right way, go for it.

thanks delicious,
that thread just about says it all....the claim is that the dropouts are a mild steel, and as unter says TiG is the way.

edit......sorry dbar, I was typing.. forged mild steel?

mine had adjustment screws. I think the real problem is that these came with every gruppo and so the supply is virtually endless and demand is zero. The dropouts with eyelets command a higher price. I think anyone that is building a bike with campagnolo long dropouts would probably want eyelets.

yes, they are forged. I dunno about the mild steel part, I doubt anyone ever did a study on the material.

Well, sh*t, man, I'll take them off your hands. Time to start planning my next frame.

I have been a pro TIG welder for a really long time. I would spend about 40 mins doing this repair not counting the next five. If you came by with six good Irish style dark ales and $20.00 I would do it. Otherwise $60.00 if you need it put in a box and shipped. I also do trades for goods like food, parts or materials.

With small gas torch, quickly heat across area to melt copper plate under chrome, this will cause the chrome to melt when heat transfer fails and roll back out of the way. No need to grind.

Clamp a small plate to the back of the drop after a brush with an old file to knock off the little balls of melted plating and groove the front out with a whiz wheel making sure to get all of the junk out of the threads

Drop in a 1/16" 2% thoriated electrode and do the root pass with E70S-6 (not a coat hanger for sure) . Scrub some heat and do a second, cold pass.

clamp plate to front of drop, groove and weld two passes.

This is high silicone 1018 carbon steel (I am visualizing, bare with me) and I need to stop now and grind off the slag caps (almost invisible of you don't know they are there) for a cover pass on both sides. I keep flipping the frame so I don't warp the drop. I might use an aluminum heat sink to protect the silver on the final passes.

It's really difficult to do a proper cap pass on this stuff because it has a tendency to undercut slightly. This won't be evident till the grinding but I know it's going to happen so I handle that with careful prep of the electrode and very modest amperage.

Once the part cools you need to remove the excess weld. I use a very small grinding disc 1/2" in diameter to perform this task and have good results without damaging the surrounding area.

With this process, the dropout would be very durable and should the need arise you could drill and tap new threads (not fun or easy) otherwise you can tell people it came like that with no hole and screw (all evidence will be gone) and who knows? perhaps some future owner will think it;s a prototype or special frame? funny..


If you try to weld it without removing the screw and hole it will fail very quickly.

ftwelder - what you have described is exactly what I need to have done on my 1983 Pinarello Columbus SL with Campy dropouts. Do you know of anyone in Northern California who can do this work?

Thanks

Crikey

That was FOUR YEARS AGO.

Frank doesn't post much here anymore

Try looking him up . Frank the Welder in Vermont

Thanks. I appreciate your help. I hope I can find someone who can do the work he described, if I can't find him.

I found his website and have sent him an email - thank you again for replying!

Frank is a great guy. And very talented. He should be able to fix you right up.

Did you check/ask in the builders forum? There must be dozens od places to get that done in Calif. Try searching for frame painting in your area. Most good painting shops offer some repair services, and should be able to recommend a builder if they don't.

Good point BG. Sending the frame all the way to Vermont doesn't make a whole lotta sense.

Unless you factor in who would be doing the work (Frank is a genius) and it would cost less than sending it to Canuckistan.

The repair is pretty straightforward and with the abundance of replacement dropouts the best option is to replace them and then the refinishing is what rates the greatest expense.

More local to you:
Paul Sadoff of Rock Lobster Cycles in Santa Cruz.
A highly skilled tig welder. I've seen him do this repair before.
Brent

Thanks, I'll check him out.

I've owned this bike for 30 years (bought new) and the paint is in in excellent condition so I would like to avoid repainting. Also, the whole frame is chromed under the paint.

Also check with Bernie Mikkelsen in Alameda, he's not a Frank-the-welder, but he HAS done this repair before and very compitently. He can't speak much anymore (had a stroke), but his wife will act as "translator" if you phone.