Feel free to just point me to a link or something. I don't mind reading. I just haven't found what I'm looking for. I'd like to take some weight off of my 87' Bridgestone Sport Touring 300. I know it's not meant to be a super light weight, but I think it would help keep some scuffs off the walls when I carry it up the stairs, and that would save me cleaning and a little nagging.

Anyway, from what I've found the wheelset is the basic way to ditch weight. Is there any fairly inexpensive modern upgrade I can make from the old aluminum wheels or has not that much changed unless you have $$$ to throw down? I've checked, and I can fit stock 27" or 700c if that makes a big difference.

I'd also Like to go from 5 to 6 gears on the rear wheel, but from what I've read I don't think that matters as long as the wheel works with 126mm and takes the old style freewheel, correct?

My crankset seems heavy to me too, but I'm new to vintage road bikes so I'm not sure... Would this be a good thing to drop some weight or should I look elsewhere?

My bike specs: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgest...ne-1987-25.htm

I suspect your bike might have a 126mm hub spacing at the rear, so that might limit your choice of new, off the shelf wheelsets, as wheels had moved over to at least 130mm spacing since the 90's. Bulding new wheels from NOS parts will cost quite a bit of money if you want to come up with very light wheels. I think the most cost effective way to replace your wheels would be to find used ones in good condition either at CL or eBay. It might give you a better chance to get higher quality/lighter wheels without spending too much.

Chombi

You probably won't be able to save much more than a pound in replacing the wheels, unless you want to spend beaucoups . I doubt you would even notice a difference when climbing the stairs, unless you live on the 5th floor.

I agree with CardiacKid... not a ton of weight to be taken off without spending $$$ and going weight weenie...I supposed you could put a carbon fork on it

or just lock it up at the bottom of the stairs. Wall scuffing problem = solved.

Alright. I just figured a lighter bike should equal one that's easier to maneuver in tighter corners. Guess I'll just try harder not to hit the walls with the tires. I don't want to keep it elsewhere because it's currently in it's only available indoor area. Thanks a lot for the advice, guys.

The bike is currently getting it's first proper full overhaul using info from lots of reading on this site and Sheldon Brown. It's turning out really nicely and all the bearings are ending up So much smoother. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the help so far!

Arrrgggg.....I just lost a great post. Oh well, not you get the abbreviated version.

Up to a pound or more can be saved from each wheel with carefull component selection. A variety of front wheels I own, complete and ready to ride, range from 992g to 1454g. I know I can easily shave 40g from the lightest wheel and 200g from the heaviest for a very modest cost.

In reality the heaviset wheel I own, with its C-Record hub and Nisi rim, is probably the most expensive as well.

Going to lighter wheels saves both on actual weight and, more important, rolling weight. The freewheel is also heavy.

My advice is to buy new wheels with a freehub and get a 7-speed cassette. You should be able to operate it in friction mode. IMHO, the best buy on lighter road wheels are the Performance Titans, which weigh together about 1,750 gms and can be found on sale for about $150/pr. I have a couple of sets of Titans and have put thousands of miles on them without any problem or maintenance. On the road forum, the Titans get grudgingly (because they are Performance) rave reviews.

1 pound = 453g?

Everywhere but Canada....

you can save what feels like (to me) about 1lb with a good cassette. i have an xt m770 9 speed cassette on one of my bikes, and it feels so much lighter than your run of the mill 7speed cassette.

Older bikes tend to have the old style screw-on freewheels instead of cassette systems. Replacing them with equivalent but lighter non-cassette systems is a very expensive proposition as alloy freewheels now command such high prices out there. 200 bucks isn't uncommon these days.
It's not the best area to save weight anyway if you ar thinking of aluminum alloy cogs, as they wear out much faster that the standard steel cogs on freewheels.

Chombi