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Bonehead Moves you have found from Former Owners

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Bonehead Moves you have found from Former Owners

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Old 10-03-12 | 06:36 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Pars
Whoever had used these had moved the NDS cone/locknut all the way over, and then put a backwards outer nut (the tapered one with the serrations) in backwards as the additional spacer on the freewheel side. No axle protruded from either side. Cool move. At least it was a) not me riding it that way and b), I won't need a new axle (unless this one is bent).
I'm too lazy to search for it now, but I think Sheldon Brown actually advocated this trick! He said as long as the QR is tight, you don't need any axle protruding into the dropouts.
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Old 10-03-12 | 08:47 AM
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He doesn't advocate it, recommending 2-3mm on each end, but says he had one bike that the axles were flush with the locknuts.

https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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Old 10-03-12 | 09:08 AM
  #178  
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Nice thread!

I recently bought a Raleigh M30 I found on CL. The Canti brakes were in a box, and the rear tire was worn through near the rim from poor brake pad positioning.
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Old 10-03-12 | 09:08 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Pars
He doesn't advocate it, recommending 2-3mm on each end, but says he had one bike that the axles were flush with the locknuts.

https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
Right. Thanks!
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Old 10-03-12 | 10:01 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by elguicho
I know it is stupid because those bikes are classics now but it was common back in the day...
Still common practice at many universities when you register your bike. I have a Raleigh with that- was the only way they'd let it on campus for me to ride. This was maybe 10 years ago.
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Old 01-23-17 | 09:47 AM
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I'm reviving this thread with a pic from a project I was working on yesterday, digging out some steel bars for my el-cheapo build. While this brake lever did have an intact clamp on screw, a former owner decided that the Hannibal Lecter treatment (which was covered by about 17 layers of electrical tape) would be the best way to hold it on.

IMG_1144
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Old 01-23-17 | 10:25 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by nlerner
I'm reviving this thread with a pic from a project I was working on yesterday, digging out some steel bars for my el-cheapo build. While this brake lever did have an intact clamp on screw, a former owner decided that the Hannibal Lecter treatment (which was covered by about 17 layers of electrical tape) would be the best way to hold it on.

IMG_1144

are you sure that it's not some form of modern sculpture? That seems more plausible than the assumption that it was an act of maintenance.

otoh, it reminds me of the old saying.... "when all you have is baling wire, every problem looks like a bale of hay".


Steve in Peoria
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Old 01-23-17 | 11:28 AM
  #183  
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Hammering a 27.2 seatpost into a 26.2 frame. Had to dissolve it out with sodium hydroxide.
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Old 01-23-17 | 11:40 AM
  #184  
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[MENTION=45088]nlerner[/MENTION], you didn't tell us how well that method works.
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Old 01-23-17 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
[MENTION=45088]nlerner[/MENTION], you didn't tell us how well that method works.
As well as you would expect.
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Old 01-23-17 | 11:47 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by wrote4luck
Hammering a 27.2 seatpost into a 26.2 frame. Had to dissolve it out with sodium hydroxide.
What size seat post did it take afterwards?
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Old 01-23-17 | 11:59 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by wrote4luck
Hammering a 27.2 seatpost into a 26.2 frame. Had to dissolve it out with sodium hydroxide.
That's pretty nasty stuff to find after a purchase.

I bought a MTB frameset that requires a 26.2 ( [MENTION=73614]rhm[/MENTION]). Nothun' else fits.

Same frameset, the BB felt terrible, opened it and found the NDS bearings were in backwards. Working on the headset, danged if I didnt find the same.
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