An unfortunate break (brake)
#1
Thread Starter
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From: Akron, OH
Bikes: 2008 Seven Axiom Steel, 1984 Colnago Nuovo Mexico, 2008 Cervelo P2C, 2000 Trek Multitrack 7200
An unfortunate break (brake)
Anyone have a source for a bell crank bolt (complete)? It's part #23 from the Raleigh Dealer's Service Manual exploded drawing for a '77 DL-1 Tourist. I broke the bolt on the bike I'm restoring doing something really dumb. What about a possible substitute if this bolt isn't obtainable anymore?
TSapp
TSapp
#2
Rustbelt Rider
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From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
I would definitely check the hardware store, who knows, you might luck out.
Just for quick reference, here is the diagram:
Just for quick reference, here is the diagram:
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|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#4
car guy, recovering


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From: Mount Vernon, NY
Bikes: Olympia Competizione & Special Piuma, Frejus track circa 1958, Dahon Helios, many others
If it doesn't thread into the yolk, you can probably find a perfect replacement at a hardware store. Length & diameter are all that matter, since it takes a nut. Bring the yolk, as well as what's left of the bolt. If the original bolt was threaded into one end of the yolk, you may have a problem. It is probably a Whitworth (British standard) thread. If so, start googling Raleigh DL-1 parts! Via Bicycles in Philadelphia might be worth a call.
#5
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Nishiki Olympic 12 Mixte, Raleigh DL-1 lady
#1 on harware store! That bolt looks like it goes through the yoke where it is flanked by 2 washers and capped with a nut, so anything of the appropriate length and width from the hardware store should do. I though I might need some special longer seat binder bolt when I wanted to fit a rack on mine, but it turns out, that any old seat post binder set up will work.
#7
Bianchi Goddess



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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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I agree with the hardware store and would recomend looking for stainless steel too. any Marine/boat stores near you?
last resort a gunsmith may be able to make your bolt from something larger
last resort a gunsmith may be able to make your bolt from something larger
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#8
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I bet as many steel components parts of that vintage, that was a chromed bolt you had on there, which is not readily available at hardware stores. Cadmium plaiting will be the closes you can get that will look shiney enough but not as shiney as chrome. Stainless is generally on the dull side finish-wise but you can polish stainless to get a chrome-like finish.
Note that the exhaust can pipe on my motorcycle pictured on my avatar is stainless and it had been polished to a chrome-like finish by the manufacturer.
Oops the avatar is too small to see the pipe.
Here's a better pic:

Chombi
Note that the exhaust can pipe on my motorcycle pictured on my avatar is stainless and it had been polished to a chrome-like finish by the manufacturer.
Oops the avatar is too small to see the pipe.
Here's a better pic:

Chombi
Last edited by Chombi; 12-07-10 at 06:36 PM.






