auskip07

Hello guys, My name is skip and i recently bought this cannondale from a moving sale for 100 dollars. It needs a little work and alot of parts.

Im not really sure if this is the right place to post so admins if you feel that this would be better located in another category please feel free to move it.

So here we go. from what i can tell this started out as a 1987 Cannondale ST400 (still not too sure about that)
-7 gear cassette
-3 sprocket apex crankset
-Shimano 200GS shifters
-Shimano 105 Brakes
-Shimano Atlus C10 rear De-railler
-Unidentifiable front De-railler

Im currently in the market for a good used group set and have stripped the bike down to send to the powdercoating place maybe next week.

I have a few questions. How do i get the Crank set off and the Bottom Bearing shown in the last picture

Thank you in advance. Any advice on what i need to purchase will be greatly appreciated (im trying to keep it at under 500 invested)

degan 

There is a tool called a crank puller that will get the crank off. There are a number of tools that are needed to get the bottom bracket off, depending on what kind of bottom bracket you have. Either way, any LBS or co-op will have the necessary tools and its generally a cheap procedure.

auskip07

Thank you. I guess it time to invest in some tools

auchencrow

Hi Auskip07 -
The paint doesn't look so bad from here. Why do you want to PC it? IS it worse than it seems in these pics?

Go to your Local Bike Store and buy a standard crank-puller. They are inexpensive. Then go to the Park Tool Website and use it as they instruct there.
- BTW - I don't like seeing a hammer anywhere near that frame !

auskip07

No problem Auchencrow. The paint is pretty bad in areas flaking and bubbling. its only $100 to get it PC and if im going to go through the trouble i might as well I just ordered a crank puller, screw type chain tool, Chain whip, and a cassette remover with guide pin. Dont worry i havent used the hammer on it yet, it was just there because it was laying on the ottoman when i laid the frame down.

canopus 

Clean it off, (buff and wax it) put it back together and ride. You need to decide if you want to keep it or if your going to want something more. You want to keep it under 500 invested but you've just spent 100 on a PC job, say another 50 or 75 on tools but you don't say what you want to do with it. There isn't anything really wrong with the parts it had except maybe a little mismatched but you won't get much better (that looks like a Suntour Cyclone FD by the way) without spending alot for 9 or 10s group and then you have a lot of work to do that will push you over the limit you already set.

They are great bikes but ride it first before investing alot. Then you'll know what you like and dislike about it and then where you want to go in the future.

P.S. - Keep the PC coating away from the machined surfaces.

realestvin7

I just got a 80's Cannondale today, too. 1989 Black Lightning...

pastorbobnlnh 

Great start to your tool collection, but you most likely need a freewheel remover tool. If by chance the rear cogs are a Shimano Uniglide Cassette, then you will need two chain whips to remove the outside small cog (one to hold the cassette and the other to un-thread the small cog). However, there is always a chance the rear wheel was upgraded to a Hyperglide Cassette, in which case, you will need the tool you ordered.

Check out these Sheldon Brown Links for great information on the differences between cassettes and freewheels.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

rccardr 

You are correct- it's an ST, and probably an '87 (check the serial # under the chain stay). That Apex crankset is a keeper, as is the Cyclone MkII FD- unless you want a double- but I'd get a 38/40 86BCD middle ring to replace the 44. FW sounds like it'a already been replaced if it's truly 7 speeds. While the components you have on there are OK, you can get that powder coated, get a new set of decals fro Vintage Cannondale, pick up a set of Shimano 600 parts (FD/RD/levers/crank) on eBay and put on new cables and tape (and maybe tires/tubes if needed) for your budget amount or less.

Nice rider.

4Rings6Stars

Make sure it fits you before doing anything....

And ask rccardr for advice on prepping it for powdercoat, he's had quite a few done. Are you stripping the paint or are they? You will need to remove your headset cups too, they are pressed into the head tube.

auskip07

Thanks for all the suggestions. What im looking to do with the bike? Ride around (exercise) and if i get the itch maybe race. At one time in my life i was riding a bike 4+ miles a day and doing it with relative ease (single speed).

As much as i would like to stick to a 500 budget alot of the parts need to be replaced because the look worn out. im willing to spend more to complete the project

So far im 170 into the build with the purchase of the tools, Little bike computer, and helmet.

Powder coating will be 100. USED Group set 250-300, New wheel set i price an easton set for 120. I enjoy projects so the satifactions + knowledge to work on it usually outweighs the price. And ill have a bike that will last me year upon years.

auskip07

Make sure what fits? They will be media blasting the frame. Ill check but i believe the shop has experience doing bike frames.

bikenut2011

+10000

also, i'm with the guy who said clean up and polish the parts that you already have, including the frame, ride it for a while, if you really like it THEN go about upgrading this and that...

JMO

andy

bikenut2011

the frame, the bike in general. make sure its comfortable to ride, the right size for YOU.

andy

auskip07

It fits and i like the ride. i rode it around for 1 hour before i decided to take it apart and upgrade. The only thing that stood out was the shifters were down right horrible. Shifting wasnt crisp.

Taking it apart showed alot of worn out parts. The cassette has some torqued teeth. Im basically made up my mind on the group set.

pastorbobnlnh 

What group set did you have in mind?

Be certain to watch the spacing on the rear axle. Modern stuff is spaced at 130mm for 8-10 speed gear. Your C-Dale would be spaced at 126mm for 6-7 speed gear. While the rear can be spread to accommodate a 130mm system, just be aware that it does present a few more challenges in order to do so correctly.

As far as prepping the frame for PC, rccardr recommends a chemical strip on the thin-walled tubing of C-Dale frames. He has done dozens, so we all respect his opinion on this. Media blasting is fine on steel or thicker walled frames, but you need to go at this more carefully on a C-Dale.

Lenton58 

What they said about fitting — good point. If there is an LBS where you plan to be a patron, see if they have a mock-up frame. They can dial in enough of what resembles your bike to get an idea as to whether or not you fit the bike.

You have bought some tools to dismantle most of it — yes? This will eat some of your budget. For a first build it is sometimes better to have the LBS knock off all the stuff, but tools are a really good investment. You still have the head set in there. The LBS will have the mandrels or removal device to pop it out in seconds. You do not have to hammer away with a drift or screwdriver and possibly damage the parts and the head tube.

If you have bubbling paint, you may be right about having to paint or pc the frame. Just be sure you fit the machine first. If not, you can abbreviate the build, sell and move on. Nice color by the way.

Another option is to remove the paint where it bubbles to halt the rust underneath. Get some fine emery paper and fair over the affected areas. Then buy some self priming yellow enamel. This is temporary, but done with care it does not look so bad. The good thing is that you can ride it and see if you like it before investing in refinishing. $3.00! If you love the bike, you can dismantle it again and do the deed. It may seem a hassle, but that is what budgets have us do. Anyway, if you assemble it a second time, you will have had an entire course on bike restoration. I have a bike that I bought new years ago. And years ago the paint bubbled up badly on the stays and BB shell. I did what I described, and it still remains in the repaired paint. And because I sanded all the rust away, it has not returned. It works!

If paint or powder coating gets on the bottom bracket shell faces, have the LBS reface the shell. They use a metal cutting tool that removes the paint or pc and exposes new metal that is exactly parallel on both sides of the BB. It may chip the finish, but if there is no 'chatter', on the tool, probably not. The point is that the crank assembly will be true on the shell. This sort of stuff is more important that what the paint finish looks like. If you have it refinished ... if there is rust, paint or pc on the BB threads, have the LBS chase them with a special die set they use for the purpose.

Parts: you say they look worn out? Put up some pics and let us look at them. Maybe you need a free hub cassette and chain? There is info around about how to check. Look up "Shelon Brown" on the net. A new set of Sylvan pedals would be nice. They are not expensive, even if you include some new Christoph aluminum toe clips and leather straps — which incidently do come in yellow. Tires? Yours look OK.
Many of the parts are probabaly OK and can be buffed up with some aluminum polish. But there will be things to do:

All the bearing cones, races should be cleaned out and the parts overhauled with new grease. If you reuse the bearings, clean them pristine and put them back in the same races — example ... respective left and right on front hub. New bearings are not expensive, and many of us recommend using clean, new ones. Loose balls can replace your caged type, but I would reuse the caged ones for the head set. If you reuse the other caged bearings, be sure they go in the right way. There are two sides. You can use special synthetic boutique grease if you want, but a decent lithium white grease will be fine. (One of my favorites is a grease used for race car wheel bearings — but I’m weird and I might get flamed).

Check the tubes. Pull off the wheel ribbon and see if there is any corrosion around the spoke nipples. You can spray them with WD-40, then wipe off the excess. This may free up spokes for truing later on. Replace the wheel tape/ribbon if it is stretched or tacky. Not expensive. Check your cables for wear and free movement in the casings. The best casings have a Teflon liner. If you have any cruddy cable runs, you might consider these.

On the net you can download a manual to do this and that on bikes. The library may have Barnett’s Bicycle Manual. If you have some basic tools, self-study can preserve your budget. IMHO Barnett's is the bible for bike maniacs. The 4th edition contains a lot of what we in C&V need to look up. The manual tells you how to do stuff and teaches technique. Amateurs and pros alike can benefit from Barnett's.

I think that you can get a nice bike for well inside your budget. If you want to upgrade it later, you can choose your course with a pile of new knowledge behind you. There is something so very satisfying about working on even a well-used bike. After some overhaul and ensuring its integrity and safety, you can tinker, lubricate, adjust and trim this bike so it runs as smooth or smoother than new. You do not need to spend a lot to do this first project. Get it to be the best it can be and try it out. You'll love it.

Welcome to C&V and keep us up-to-date.

auskip07

Thank you for all of that info. Im not sure its rust maybe just corrosion/oxidation since i dont think Aluminum rust But i might give that a try before i commit to PC.

Ill get some pics of the parts tonight. and try to take some measurements of the rear width

i called the bike shop and he told me in order to fit a larger cassette i would need a different rear wheel with the appropriate hub. He was also very against me assembling my own bike but at $100/hour i can imagine why he would want me to just hand it over.

Im fairly competent with tools so im not too worried. ill be taking the frame to the shop to get the BB taken off since im not sure what tool i need to remove it properly this friday or next (depending on when i get my tools in to completely strip the frame and get the chain off.

canopus 

Again, write it all out so you know what you going to get into. Cause when you look, sure a FD is ONLY 30 and the rear is a good deal at 60, and oh while I'm at the wheels are only 120 (then you go to put them on only to realize that they are 130mm spaced for 9 speed shimano cassette not a freewheel so now you need a $50 cassette and a $20 chain that wasn't budgeted, only to get those two items and realize that the friction shifters you have won't pull enough cable for the new cassette so you decide to upgrade those also, there goes $120 or better...)

And yes I can see why you would want to replace those shifters....

Any way, just make your plan first is all, and "worn looking" is code to me for "all it needs is a good polishing"

If you don't want those cranks I'd be interested. I want to gather up some parts for an old school Half-Step Touring setup and those look good.

I might have something depending on what group your looking for.

auskip07

Canopus If i end up going with a new set. You have first dibs on the crank.

brockd15 

Do you mean like this? If so, then it's supposed to be that way.

auskip07

Ok then they are close to normal then but i was surprised that one gear was more torqued then the others.

I would personally feel better getting a whole matching groupset knowing i dont have to piece meal one together. Is putting a non matching set together a good idea or does that involve more headaches?

Beautiful Black Cannondale Pictured above. when searching through the catalogs that one really stood out. Ill be keeping the yellow color but ill be changing a couple things.

realestvin7

Thanks, it was a spurt of the moment buy.

dwellman

I also have an 80's C-dale (86). I rode it like crazy many years ago and am just now re-discovering it. This is what I'm doing. You night find some ideas:

There were numerous chips in the paint, but I've decided NOT to have the bike repainted or powder coated at this time. Instead filling the chips in with matched lacquer after using Arctic Silver surface purifier on the bare Al.

I'm currently in the process of fitting a more modern drive train on mine. I am not using the current hub, rim for this. Instead an entirely new one.

First thing is fitting a new rear cassette. I already went from six to seven (14 years ago thinking THAT was the only option.) now going from seven to eight (eight cogs of a nine speed cassette fit in slightly less space than a standard 7 speed one (~0.27mm less)). I bought a new wheel for that in case it doesn't work out, then I just go back to my old, no harm no foul.

Second, if the rear derailleur functions well enough then I'll upgrade the shifters. If not I'll have to get a new derailleur.

Third, change out the starting-to-rust chrome (not original) fork for a carbon one. No plans to change out the headset.

Lastly, I was never happy with the crank arms that came stock. I may end up replacing those, too.

brockd15 

Nothing wrong with upgrading if that's what you want to do. Compatibility depends on what components you're planning on using. Some have to made to work together and others do fine. What do you have in mind?

Also, as mentioned above, you're bike has 126 spacing between the dropouts while newer road wheels (8/9/10 speed) have 130 spacing and mtb wheels have 135 spacing. Being aluminum, it's generally not advised to spread the frame, but I know of some BF members who slip a 130 wheel into a 126 frame without cold setting and don't have any problems. You could also consider the 8 of 9 on 7 approach, or the 9 of 10 on 7 approach.