The idea has merit. An adjustment screw stops the non-drive side from slipping back on my bike.

If the star washer doesn't hold the axle, I could fasten a flat washer to the drive side. I would have to disassemble the skewer to mount the wheel, but that is not a big issue.

Please go away.

Michael,
I have a rear VO anti-theft skewer and special allen key if you think it might be the solution.

Also I noticed that modern QR skewers have a smaller area of contact than do their vintage/retro counterparts. Of course skewers designed for vertical dropouts don't need the same grip as do those for horizontals, because of course it is impossible for the axle to shift back and forth. So make sure the caps are max size on those horizontal drops!

The modern skewers, along with the modern hub, are key to the slipping. The Dura Ace hub was designed to win the TDF on a bike with vertical drop-outs. Now I know. My riding style might be at fault too. I do tend to get out of the saddle and put all my 210 lbs on each leg while cranking from a stop. The chain is pulling the axle forward on the drive side under this load.

I'll consider the anti-theft skewers. They look like they would lock down well.

Thank you.

I have this problem on my Super Course. After examining and thinking it over I concluded the problem was non-serated lock nuts and chromed dropouts. Thanks for posting this, it reminded me I need to fix that.

Have had the same problem on a 80s FUJI and a 70s PUCH both of which I replaced the wheels on on - I did not try to use the old skewers but did eventually end up using a modified chain tightener - At the time I was riding at 284# now that I am down to 235# I don't use them anymore - Also as Mills said keep looking for the problem, I am very interested in its solution - Using a star washer or lock washer may work - My sons 72 UO-8 was slipping on the left side and I still think it is because the axle is to long on the new wheel set but when we measure it measures perfect - We solved his slipping with placing a very large washer on it (see attached photos) and now there is no slipping - GOOD LUCK...

Hey - Don't be to reluctant in using a modified chain tensioner in the mean time - We are getting close to some real good riding weather and you don't want to miss out...

There they are!
thanks!

I concur that only a lightweight rider can get away with using modern low-weight, low-tension, low-friction skewers and axle end nut systems in horizontal dropouts. Everyone else needs to use more traditional parts or one of the retrofit tricks mentioned above. As a midsized cyclist who uses old parts and old frames, I have only rarely experienced wheel slippage, and it was generally attributable to mechanic error on my part.

I was going to suggest some vintage Campagnolo skewers, but I never really thought about the hub's contact points contributing to this problem. I used to have this problem with modern ultegra hubs on my vintage frame, but my solution was a new frame so that doesn't help much. I could get it to stick, but usually the first ride after a wheel removal involved a couple of stops to straighten the rear wheel. My skewers were very tight.

this same thing happened to me on a touring trip from brooklyn to philly. all of a sudden my miyata 610 rear wheel would pull forward almost out of the rear dropouts. happened a few times. scary. the on the fly fix i found was odd. i originally had the QR skewer handle pointed rearward to stay out of the way of panniers and straps etc. i tried it facing forward and success. absolutely makes no sense to me. i haven't investigated why this worked but its stayed in that position for over a year with several longer touring trip and no problems.

Sure, no problem. I'm just trying to help. I'm gone.

I know this has been mentioned but may be worth one more check. When I was having the same problem on a bike, turns out I had removed both cones from my axle when servicing the hub. When reassembling I did not get the axle perfectly centered and the QR could not lock down on the dropout because the axle was out too far out on one side (didn't look like it either, doesn't take much).

One adjustment I’m going to try is to let the axle move as far back as possible in the drop-out before clamping the quick-release shut. I'm backing out the adjustment screw to achieve this.

Currently the axle is positioned in the EO location, about mid-point on the drop-out. The lock-nut on the hub and the quick-release only clamp on the upper and lower portion of the drop-out. Only two small crescent shaped sections are holding the axle in place on each side, one at 1 O’clock and another at 7 O’clock.

By moving the axle back, the lock-nut on the hub and the quick-release will grip a larger “C” shaped area, from 5 O’clock to 3 O’clock. This might make a difference.

I’m also going to test ride the bike up a grassy hill, cranking hard at low speed as I climb. Better to fail there than on the streets.

I just wanted to mention that I ruined a good rear wheel trying to figure out my own slippage problem - On an power up uphill stroke my right side slipped, jammed the wheel left, and that was it, ruined wheel - Bad - Thats when I decided to give in and go to the chain tensioners - Please just be carefull - Also I have seen more than a few guys using modified tensioners on thier fixy bikes - There must be something to it...

Anyone have a lead on large diameter lock washers. I recon the ID needs to be about 6mm and the OD needs to be 20mm with either a star pattern or hardened radial serrations (preferred).


Tom

It happened on my Super Course as well with a new wheelset. I figured out that the powdercoat I'd had applied to the frame was more slippery, and the bite on the newer skewers was not as deep and caused the issue. I went to older skewers with a knurled steel face and haven't had a problem since.

On the supercoursi, was this in a config with a derailleur hanger or SS?

I had the same problem with my Super Course. I fixed it with a solid, bolt-on Campy track axle in my Tippo hubs. No problem since. The 15mm stubby wrench in my seat bag is as good as a quick release.

I pulled the old skewers out of my original wheels (84' model) and swapped it out with the new ones that came with my new wheels and it fixed the problem. I was a little concerned about the length of the old skewer, but I wanted to try it to see if it would work. It was plenty long enough and works great!

I looks like a 1/4" Internal-External Star Lock Washers would fit, Open and scroll down here: https://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/washers/star.htm

I'm not ready to use this solution yet. I've been shopping on-line for skewers, and it looks like Shimano makes the best item for this application. I already have more than one spare rear Shimano skewer, and I do trust these more than the item that broke. I may ask my network of C&V owners if they have some minty Shimano 600 skewers around.

Any suggestions on what C&V skewer to use?

Barrettscv, you can try some star washers, it can't hurt. I suspect the pressure of the QR will smash them flat. If the QR ends are bottoming on the axle ends, the star washers will add a bit of thickness that might forestall any issues due to that possibility.

The only thing I can think of that keeps the QR from bringing adequate pressure to the dropout faces is if the QR ends (with and without lever) are bottoming on the axle end, or via the conical spring are doing so. You might try it with the conical springs removed and see if that makes a difference.

If you are getting enough pressure, sliding can occur if the QR ends and the locknuts are not biting into the dropout. I don't know what the Dura Ace solution was but for Campy it's a knurled clamping face on the QR faces and the locknuts. I've used lot's of Campy over the years and not had one slip when set up right.

What else can happen? Well, inadequate QR pressure, either due to a worn-out cam mechanism at the lever, or just not cranking it down. Personally, if I don't need to use the seatstay or chainstay as a brace that lets me get enough leverage to close the lever, I don't think it's tight enough. I have never broken a QR (now watch, tomorrow two will break spontaneously ... ).

I can't really think of anything else to check into.

I've found that the stamped dropouts on the cheaper vintage frames, like the original Super Course, Grand Prix, and UO-8, are narrower than the forged Campy, Zeus, Huret, and Simplex dropouts on the better, usually double-butted frames. Unless I'm careful with axle length, selection of QR for a "hollowed out" look inside the clamping face, and proper shape/fit of the centering springs, I can end up with wheels that are not clamped. I'd have never dreamed to anticipate the problem until I had to solve it for my UO-8 frame.

I'll admit I've only used old Campagnolo hubs with old Campagnolo quick releases, but I've never had a wheel slip as long as everything else is correct...