Ha, I wasn't going to toss it, but I wasn't going another step until I found out where it goes.

Also, I DO have a flat wrench. I have the basic beginners Park Took Kit. I just need to know what nut to turn and when to turn it. Going to install the plastic piece then go from there. The brakes are pretty loose right now too.

I would have jumped at $70 for that bike in that condition. I don't think you got burned. Most of the 3-speeds I pick up are in MUCH worse condition although I usually pay about $40-50 for them. That bike has a ton of potential. I bet it could be made to look pretty darn nice with just a clean-up. No paint is necessary I bet.

Post pics when you can of what it looks like when it more done. If you were near Chicago and I had seen this thread earlier I'd have jumped at the $20 offer -I'd even have given you $70 for it.

SWEET!
Then you're in good shape.
In that case, Cudak888's suggestion is the better way to do it. The thin cone wrench will slot into the "flats" on the front side, behind the calipers (where the spring passes through). Because this is part of the spring assembly, the cone wrench will take the opposing torque when you tighten the nut (instead of the calipers/springs). All you have to do is ensure that you are keeping the calipers centered (hold the cone wrench steady so it does not turn), then tighten 'er down on the back side.

Test by squeezing the brakes and observing the action of the calipers. When both pads hit the rim at the same time, you're there.

With the help of the pictures, I got that rubber thingee back in place. Also, from the instructions here, I went and put some wrenches on the nuts up front, and went to the allen nut in back. Things started lining up..Not perfect but working. Also, in the process, I messed with that allen nut on the cable because the lever was going all the way back. Didn't know too much what I was doing, but I fumbled around and got some pressure in the lever, and the brakes are working on the rim..IMO, at this point, the brakes don't seem all the way straight up front, but they are better than they were before. Going to pull it off the stand and ride it around the block to see if the brakes are really working.

By the way, in the last one of these pics, you can see my Litespeed in the background, as if it was saying "why are you messing with this piece of garbage, when I am setting here, light as a feather, smooth as butter, and fast as lightning, why?"

Good to hear you're making some progress. I really think this bike is the perfect project for you to get your hands on some tools (as you are) - well done!

Looks to me like the front wheel is not centered, so it is either improperly dished or is not fully seated in the front dropouts. try releasing the quick release, wiggling the wheel in the dropouts and re-tightening the front wheel QR while the bike is upright, with a little downward pressure on the stem to seat the axles.

If that doesn't do the trick, then you've done what you can do with the calipers until you can address the wheel centering.

I still think that a full teardown and Oxalic Acid soak would be a good idea. Rust is like cancer, and a soak will touch every surface outside and inside. Naval jelly will be like a topical application on the spots you can see, but won't get inside the frame where the rust is likely to be extensive.

With all that looking around, I couldn't and didn't see where the wheel wasn't centered. I centered the wheel, THEN I did some adjusting on the back nut while holding the brake with the thin wrench on the front, and I got the brakes centered... Thanks much...going to be looking into taking off pieces of this bike, and putting them back on..like you said, the naval jelly and touch up is just temporary. Will see..

Nicely done Looks like you've got it!

I didn't notice how much rust there was until just now with the new photos. I don't know what other's opinion is, but I think i's at least get it stripped down and really see just how extensive it is.

wonder if anyone used electrolysis to remove / convert rust from a frame. . .

I don't think electrolysis is suitable for removing rust (iron oxide). It would more easily scavenge the iron out of the steel alloy than from the rust. I have used electrolysis to remove one metal (copper) from the surface of steel but it was not copper-oxide, it was copper.

Normally, you use an acid to remove the various surface oxide layers before subsequent chemical proceesing (plating, painting, etc.)

The reason to remove the rust and repaint this frame is that the rust is already extensive and rust progresses more quickly as it gets worse and as the integrity of the paint is more completely violated. If he likes this frame, it is worth preserving what's left of the steel. There is no collector value in a steel frame that looks like Swiss cheese.

If it's as bad as I suspect, it is worthy of an oxalic acid bath, inside and out. It is as likely to be worse inside than it is outside because this is not due to sweat, as he was told - no way this is from sweat.


P.S. - I like the fork. The fork blades look "beefy" up where they join the crown. I like that look. I also like full sloping crowns.

I took a 10 mile ride on the Gran Prix around my neighborhood. It rode good, and the front brake works better than before. This bike has "beater role" locked down.. Since, I changed the wheels, tires, and so so got the front brake working, I am going to just put something on the rust and ride this bike on bad weather days, and days I can leave it locked up for some time. In addition, something I have to do to one of my other bikes, I will come and try to do it on this bike first..

This is a handsome bike and it has a good ride. I even got the big chainring working and kicked up a little speed.

Thanks again to all...

Judging from the outside, it might be just as bad on the inside or worst. If that is the case, this bike will work as my beater bike until it fails.