I got some 9mm cotters at the LBS, but they go in too deep. I think there are two styles. Where can I get the right kind?

I buy my French cotters from Mark Stonich (Bikesmith Design) - Did not know there were two styles.


EDIT - Correction - FOUR Styles!

Thanks. I emailed him and asked for advice. I suspect I should use the least-cut style and file as necessary. I seem to have the full cut style here.

I thought there was a larger diameter, as well. Two things could account for excessive insertion - too much chamfer, and not enough diameter. Not sure which problem you have, Tom.

But I don't know which one or ones are French-correct.

Awk, watcha think?

I have 9.5mm cotters here. They don't fit. They are most definitely too wide. So it's the cut that's wrong. I'm ALMOST tempted to fashion my own, but that's crazy. I'll get a few from Mark Stonich, and it will be done.

I've been through this same issue with the Nervar cranks on my UO8. They are 9mm, and as I recall, about the 3/4 style in Auchencrow's picture, not the one labeled Peugeot. I'd go into Harris and ask for cotters and they'd ask what bike and I'd say a UO8 and they'd give me something they called "French standard' but it was maybe 8 or 8.5mm and I'd find they don't fit and then take them back and they'd give me something else that would go too far into the hole. On the 3rd try they'd get it right but express amazement that that was the correct type.

The problem with filling them yourself, or I should say, filing them myself, is that I could never keep the angle consistent. If you don't, the cranks won't be parallel. Do note they are soft metal and file away quickly.

just ordered from mark today some 9.5's as i am overhauling my kabuki BB which has cottered cranks - got to use my cotter press - one came out and is still usable - the other got bent a bit though it came out without much fuss - anyhow - not reusable - i measured with my park measure stick and it looks like the 9.5's are the way to go

Harris Cyclery has them.......I ordered 2 last year......only needed one..........no problem since

I am having this problem right now too on my Peugeot. I filed down two sets of 9.5mm cotter pins and both times they ended up being too loose when I pressed them in. I think the problem was that I ruined the angle of the cotters just like jimmuller did. I ordered some Grade A 9.0mm Peugeot cotters from Mark Stonich this weekend. I hope they work without modification. Cotter pins are frustrating, but I actually kind of like them.

i am guessing you guys also have the press from bikesmith - i think it is by far the coolest bike tool that i have - it just looks and feels b@d@$$ - just glad i finally got around to using it so i didnt feel like a total tool for buying it

I want one. I probably will buy one when my LBS stops letting me borrow theirs.

Hmm, maybe I'll fashion a temporary one out of a c-clamp or my vise for this time. I don't think the press is cost-justified for me, but if I get two or three more cotter jobs over the next year, then I'll know it is.

I ordered four grade-A cotters from Mark.

I'm really cheap, but even I broke down and bought one... Though I was pretty adept at swinging a hammer with a steel brace at the underside of the crank, it was quite a precarious operation, and I knew I'd inevitably miss one day and damage a lock ring or crank.

Plus, BikesmithDesigns' tool is a pretty impressive hunk of steel - Just having it makes me feel like a better bike mechanic than I actually am.

well said

Seems like it would be less trouble to just find some cotterless cranks once you factor in dealing with them, getting the tool, new cotters, and time. Am I way off, or is it just a matter of keeping the originals?

Staying with cotterless cranks is a whole LOT cheaper than sourcing suitable bottom brackets/cups or a cartridge bb, not to mention finding appropriate cranks.
- And there are those of us who like the authenticity and durability of a chromed steel crank.

Fitting cotters is not hard - You just need a good 12" mill-file, and a vise, and the whole process only takes a few minutes longer than servicing a cotterless crank.

Partly it is a matter of keeping the original crank. My Nervar is pretty cool looking for being so old. For decades the cotter pin was the means of attaching a crank so that's another historical feature. Sure the crank is heavier than alloy but not really by so much as be a ride stopper. And you don't service it very often. So the style points make it worth keeping. Until I replace it again.

I keep mine to keep my bike original as well.

Also, there are so many variables when fitting a new crank and BB. The chainline can be tricky to get right, and you have to make sure the arms and inner chainring don't hit the frame. It's really a lot of work to change cranks, more than removing the cotters and replacing them.

the press works great - even though the first pin got bent the other one i had to take off again and reinstall - no problems on either end - such a great tool - sounds like it would be a good pickup for you tom as you do lots of C&V work no?