Drilled stem
#1
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Wherever I may roam....
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From: Topton Pa
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Drilled stem
I know I've seen pictures of a stem that has been drilled and perhaps tapped to accept the front brake cable adjuster screw. On my "project" I'd like to do something like that to clean up the front end a little (plus I don't have a nice cable hanger).
Has anyone done this themselves or am I asking for trouble?
Has anyone done this themselves or am I asking for trouble?
#2
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Winslow, AR
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
I've never done it, but I have seriously thought about it simply because the idea of the cable stop in the stem was a little different (than my other set ups) and attractive. I didn't see there'd be any problem because if there was it wouldn't have already been done. In the end, though, I could see I really wasn't going to like having the cable sticking up out of the stem all in the way of my hands or a possible handlebar bag.
So, safety an issue? No, I don't think so. You'd have to drill all of the way through with a bit the size of the cable screw and, then, finish up with a milling bit only part of the way through to have an edge inside for the ferrel to butt against. To do it "nicely", a drill press would be the way to go.
Might be more trouble than it's worth, though. But, that's just what I figure.
So, safety an issue? No, I don't think so. You'd have to drill all of the way through with a bit the size of the cable screw and, then, finish up with a milling bit only part of the way through to have an edge inside for the ferrel to butt against. To do it "nicely", a drill press would be the way to go.
Might be more trouble than it's worth, though. But, that's just what I figure.
#3
I have just such a vestigial tapped hole on a replacement (longer) GB stem, that is mounted on one of my Super Courses.
Though I'm using the brake hanger instead, I have no qualms about it being there whatsoever. I am sure that whoever put it there long ago used it, and rode it without incident.
Though I'm using the brake hanger instead, I have no qualms about it being there whatsoever. I am sure that whoever put it there long ago used it, and rode it without incident.
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#4
1) I can't imagine it would be an issue as long as the holes were chamfered nicely and smoothed and whatever stem is fairly substantial in its construction to begin with.
2) I would definitely use a drill press (you want the hole to be nice and vertical.
3) If you chicken out and can't find a hangar let me know, I can probably pick one up for you at a co-op/used store.
2) I would definitely use a drill press (you want the hole to be nice and vertical.
3) If you chicken out and can't find a hangar let me know, I can probably pick one up for you at a co-op/used store.
#6
#7
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I've lost count of the # of times someone has pointed out mine and "that's gonna break on you one day".
Still hasn't.
BTW, this was 1974, I was 17, using a borrowed hand-held drill.
Still hasn't.

BTW, this was 1974, I was 17, using a borrowed hand-held drill.
#8
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#9
Similar thought: Drill and tap the stem to accept a bolt-equipped slug about 2" long and the diameter of a handlebar. I'd use it to mount the bike computer to one side of the stem and below the level of the handlebar, so when I turn the bike over to change a flat I don't scratch the computer. And it would look pretty clean.
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#11
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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I seem to recal seeing some older road bike with a setup like what you are talking about, likely old Peugeots and Motos when I worked in a shop.
I would like to find a similar stem for ATBs and Hybrids that had a pulley and adjst barrel located under the stem like this one.
I would like to find a similar stem for ATBs and Hybrids that had a pulley and adjst barrel located under the stem like this one.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#14
I think I remember the cable centerline being about 37mm from the centerline of the steerer. It would be ideal if you could tap threads M6X1 in the hole or "spot face" the location on the hole so there is something "square" for the cable stop to rest against.
I think the clearance hole for M6 is 15/64" as 1/4" is too big.
I am assuming you are talking about a cast aluminum stem. If you are talking about a tubular steels stem, you MUST weld/braze a tube through the hole you drill. DO NOT be tempted to just drill a hole through the middle of a steel stem just drop in some type of cable stop. This could cause the stem to shear. You don't want this.
I think the clearance hole for M6 is 15/64" as 1/4" is too big.
I am assuming you are talking about a cast aluminum stem. If you are talking about a tubular steels stem, you MUST weld/braze a tube through the hole you drill. DO NOT be tempted to just drill a hole through the middle of a steel stem just drop in some type of cable stop. This could cause the stem to shear. You don't want this.
#15
those are the original Mafac Racers that were on the frame-a 'Francia'- in 1975 when i graduated from college, Khatful, all that's left of the original machine. it had been hanging in the rafters for decades when i took it down and had it PC'd and built up with this'n'that....glad you like it. one thing that really gets me is that its shockingly light, considering....
#16
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Bear in mind that any stem movement will change the brake adjustment. Which means, of course, you can adjust the brakes by moving the stem up or down.
The old GB spearpoint stems that came this way had a threaded section for an adjusting barrel. I've never liked the look.
The old GB spearpoint stems that came this way had a threaded section for an adjusting barrel. I've never liked the look.
#17
I drilled and tapped many of my own forged alloy stems for this in the past.
Never had one break.
After doing the first one "freehand" I learned to always set it up with a clamp and drill press so the hole and countersink was straight, concentric and at the proper angle: measure thrice, drill twice, tap once.
The slick trick I chanced on was to insert a small length of teflon cable liner thru the adjuster and stem: worked a charm.
Never had one break.
After doing the first one "freehand" I learned to always set it up with a clamp and drill press so the hole and countersink was straight, concentric and at the proper angle: measure thrice, drill twice, tap once.
The slick trick I chanced on was to insert a small length of teflon cable liner thru the adjuster and stem: worked a charm.
#18
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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UH back to the drilling the stem idea, was there a thread on drilling a stem to mount a bell? was it just a link? I am really intrested in knowing what type of bell it was.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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