Further data: That Campagnolo 1010 dropout has a closed "C," as one would find well into the production of the 1010A into the 1970's. My 1961 Schwinn Paramount has the open-C font. I'm not that well up on when the change took place, but someone else here should know it:

Open "C" 1010 dropout variant:



Yes, the FD has been replaced, but remains a pre-1973 variant.

-Kurt

The locknuts on the hubs may have a date stamped on them, e.g. "CAM 61"

a really beautiful bike, a SC Cinelli from the 60ies is a dream for any collector!

I agree with others, I would try to avoid any extreme measures at this point. I do use oxalic acid... but I would try other things first. Best advice here was to go slow.

Though I'd expect to see holes in the lugs on a 70's Cinelli.

I would do a complete tea down and rebuild,anything short of that will no get satisfactory results. Buy yourself an ultrasonic cleaner, pour a little Dawn dish detergent in it with water and run all of the parts throught it for 3 cycles at 480 degrees with the temp setting on.

For the chrome you can use a non-abrasive product with naval jelly, apply it to the rust area, let it soak for awhile and then scrub it away with a soft toothbrush or well soaked 0000 steel. 0000 steel wool or Brillo pads, if wet and used gently will NOT scratch chrome.

Take your time, I'd think that will clean up pretty well. Quite a prize...

One piece at a time on cold winter nights and if you must do it all then first to the plate shop for advice only...

I'd imagine Schwinn bought a lot of these at a time and used them well past the change in design. The only Italian bikes I've owned with "open C" drops have been from the 50's. I currently have four Italian frames built between '60-'64 and they all have closed "C" drops.

I've read that the "open C" was replaced in 1959 (at least as far as the shifters and skewers go). But again, I think you need to allow at least a few years leeway in trying to date a complete bike from parts like that. Who knows what sat on shelves for how long, etc.

I'm not sure if the OP has confirmed the oil-ports on the BB shell, but I would say this is a early to mid 60's Cinelli.

Oh yeah, naval jelly was a good suggestion. It's the easiest method to spot treat rust because you can just brush it on where you need it. It's good stuff.

Good to know.

-Kurt

I agree bigtime. It's worth a fortune left alone and in the buff.


Johnnybee

Alan, if you are looking for any help I can be of service. I have even worked on a 1960's Cinelli before. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and can give some hints/help with the restore.

Thanks for the additional info everyone. I haven't taken out the BB yet (or done much of anything short of a quick wipe down) so can't comment on the ports... this will definitely be a slow project, but will be sure to post pics as things get cleaned up over time!

redxj, thanks a ton for your offer, I've already been referred to someone in the area who is familiar with these frames but will definitely PM if I need some outside assistance.

An oil port (or ports) will be on the exterior of the BB. There is no need to disassemble anything to see them. Their presence, or lack there of, will help date the bike.

The most common will be on the bottom of the BB and typically has a screw in it. Its purpose is a drain hole. The second one would be on top of the BB. It will have a nipple for inserting the oil. Like this picture,

another pic of the aforementioned oil port, on a much later Frejus than the one pictured above.

Got it. There are two: one is on the underside of the BB shell, the other is on the top on the non-drive side.

Stunning bike. It looks like you've got a chromed steel stem with the original badge on it - be very careful with that, they are worth a lot of money on their own.

I have read the 2 ports lasted until about 1965. With the RD and the ports, I'd date the bike 63-65. The lock nuts in the hubs could have a date stamp.

Its about time this thread deserves a BUMP.

I've been working quite a bit on this bike and I have to say its one of the most fun and rewarding projects I've done. Unfortunately time is limited, so my progress is slow, but in the same sense this restoration is kicking my butt. Everything is requiring to be completely disassembled, totally cleaned, and restored. All threads are getting grease. All surfaces are being safely cleaned and polished.

I'm going a very safe route on this. I've only been using cotton rags, WD-40, Mother's (for alloy), NevrDull (for chrome), and steel wool for only the roughest of rust (so far only on bottle cages and spokes). And of course, lots of time, elbow grease, and frustration.

The bike is completely disassembled, save for the headset and BB. I'm done with brakes, derailleurs, bars/stem, and bottle cages. Front hub shell is completely cleaned and polished, still need to repack bearings. Parts are only polished by hand so they don't really keep their shine after handling them - I'll take a buffer to it before reassembling everything.

RIM UPDATE: both rims are shot. I ended up finding identical replacements (which are Fiamme Red Label) from the awesome guys at Sic Transit Cycle in Ann Arbor. Gave me an killing deal because they are great dudes. Check them out. The "new" rims are currently getting old glue chipped off and then will be polished to death. Once the hub is repacked, the wheel will be laced back together with all the same spokes and nipples, but which are now in pristine condition. I'll post a pic when its built.

For now, here are the best looking parts disassembled and cleaned!

Alan, PM me. I'm in town for a couple more months.

Thanks for the update. Take more photos and keep us posted!

Great work thus far. Glad I caught this thread.

Keep the pics coming. Your bike reminds me a lot of my ca. '63 Cinelli Mod. A. Would that it were chrome like yours!

Wow, that's quite a gift. The pics of all that newly polished campy made me swoon. Keep on the good stuff!