Sturmey-Archer AW won't shift into low; How much cable travel between 1st and 3rd?
#1
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Sturmey-Archer AW won't shift into low; How much cable travel between 1st and 3rd?
I have an 80s vintage Dahon with a S-A AW hub that won't shift into low. I have disassembled and degunked the insides, and the guts seemed to be moving smoothly. Even with the shifter cable tightened enough so that the hub barely makes it into 3rd, something is preventing the cable from pulling the insides all the way into low, I can't even move the shifter all the way into the 1st gear position.
The amount of chain travel between these two positions is about two indicator chain links' worth: In 3rd, with the cable fully slack, there are about three indicator chain pins showing out of the axle, and with cable as tight as it will go (the hub still in 2nd), there are 5 chain pins showing.
About the only adjustment I have not fiddled with is the right hand bearing cone adjustment. Perhaps it is tightened too much? I checked it today when I disassembled the hub, and it was at the "recommended" setting, backed out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn from finger tight.
TIA, ---wsanders
The amount of chain travel between these two positions is about two indicator chain links' worth: In 3rd, with the cable fully slack, there are about three indicator chain pins showing out of the axle, and with cable as tight as it will go (the hub still in 2nd), there are 5 chain pins showing.
About the only adjustment I have not fiddled with is the right hand bearing cone adjustment. Perhaps it is tightened too much? I checked it today when I disassembled the hub, and it was at the "recommended" setting, backed out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn from finger tight.
TIA, ---wsanders
#3
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Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Make sure your cable is not kinked or binding. The base adjustment for the indicator chain is having the shoulder even with the end of the axle in second gear, then adjust as necessary from there. Has the indicator chain been replaced before and if so is it the correct one? I have had the problem a couple of times on older hubs. IIRC there are 3 different lengths based on overall axle length.
Aaron
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#4
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Make sure that the indicator is not bottomed out when threaded in. Spin it about 1/2-turn backwards before threading on the shifter cable.
#6
Something else to consider: I was having a similar problem yesterday, and discovered the trigger shifter itself had an issue - the small plate held by the spring was broken and not holding the cable when trying to shift into low. This appears like an issue engaging low, when in fact low was getting engaged but the shifter couldn't hold the cable and it would immediately snap back to 2nd.
A new (used) trigger ($10) fixed that right away.
Mark
A new (used) trigger ($10) fixed that right away.
Mark
#7
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One thing I'm not getting is if the hub did work fine at one point and now does not. If it came to you with a problem, one issue might be that you have the wrong-sized indicator. They came in a bunch of different lengths (i.e., from the threaded portion to where the chain starts), at least based on the collection I've amassed in my parts drawer.
Neal
Neal
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Thanks to all who replied. I now have first gear, but I have the RH bearing cone backed out a full turn, a little bit further than the must-never-exceed 5/8 turn specified. It is still hard to shift into low, but it seems to get a little bit easier each time I shift. This weekend, after I get hold of an thin 15mm box-end wrench so I can align the cones more precisely, I'll back the RH cone in 1/4 turn and see what happens.
The indicator chain is in OK shape - it's screwed all the way in and then backed out about 3/4 turn (you need to back it out so the chain can align itself and you don't pull the chain sideways.)
Another thing that was impinging on reaching first gear is that the shifter was too close to the brake lever, and the band holding the brake lever on was preventing the shifter lever from going all the way down to the handlebar where it needs to be to reach 1st. The total travel is still less than three indicator chain pins.
The indicator chain is in OK shape - it's screwed all the way in and then backed out about 3/4 turn (you need to back it out so the chain can align itself and you don't pull the chain sideways.)
Another thing that was impinging on reaching first gear is that the shifter was too close to the brake lever, and the band holding the brake lever on was preventing the shifter lever from going all the way down to the handlebar where it needs to be to reach 1st. The total travel is still less than three indicator chain pins.







