I've been reading about front hubs at Sheldon Brown's site, and he says that it's very important to adjust the cones just right. But he doesn't say how you can tell what "just right" means; just that if you don't get it just right, disaster ensues.

So: how do you achieve the "optimal adjustment" of which he speaks?

Thanks in advance. (I'm having fun; despite work etc., the bike is now reasonably clean and de-greased, at least as far as I can manage without really radical disassembly. It has new tires etc.; chain all degreased and oiled and will no doubt be great as soon as I manage to put it back on again, ha ha ha; unfortunately, a little rivet on my SA spindle indicator broke, and I suspect I might have to investigate the bearings the cranks turn on, which sounds daunting. After the front hub, I attack the brakes. Hopefully, I'll actually manage to ride this bike before too many years have passed. )

If the system is what I'm used to on older bikes (two cones pressing into ball bearing nests on each side), you should screw them finger tight so that the wheel spins freely with just a hint of sideways play. If the wheel stops after a few revolutions, loosen one of the cones slightly. If there is a lot of sideways play, tighten it slightly. That's my method - no exact measurements, just instincts.

As per above post.
You'll need cone spanners (narrow)
It's trial-and-error, but you want it to turn freely without play, but not binding or having a 'lumpy' feeling if too tight.
When you do up the lock-nuts, it'll get slightly tighter, so once smooth, back off fractionally before doing up lock nut.
Start with one side lock-nutted up, and adjust from the other side only - easier.

Briggs and Stratton 30w oil is good for all English front hubs, Sturmey 3speed rears, and bottom brackets. Or you can grease the bearings to make them temporarily weather-proof, and oil occasionally from the central oiler (grease helps hold the balls in too, on re-assembly)

People argue endlessly about the best oil - anything is better than nothing.
If you over-oil, it dribbles down the spokes onto rims, affects braking, and gets on your tyres - a little oil, often is the way to go

Have fun!

Thanks everyone -- I think I did it! Now for the brakes ...

The brakes are very simple once you get the hang of it, what do you need to do with them? Just adjust the cable?

A hammer and screwdriver come in handy too...

Aaron

The brakes do seem simple, except for the fact that the levers seem to be sort of dysfunctional. Sigh. Still, I disassembled, cleaned, re-shod, and reassembled the brakes themselves ...

Do you have those goofy self adjusting brake levers?

Not anymore ... there was a little part that was, on both levers, solid rust, which kept the levers from moving nearly enough for actual braking. I think, not that I know what I'm talking about, that it was part of the self-adjusting thing. I bought new cheapo levers and moved on (to the brake cables ...)