noglider's Raleigh International Frankenbike
#251
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On Wednesday, I brought my frame to Hal, the head mechanic at Bicycle Habitat on Lafayette St in Manhattan. I had him spread the dropouts to 130mm in preparation for my drivetrain change. Of course, he also aligned the dropouts so they are parallel.
I met him in his home, because he doesn't have the proper tools at the shop. He used a frame alignment table.
I met him in his home, because he doesn't have the proper tools at the shop. He used a frame alignment table.
#252
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It's amazing how forgiving a steel frame is. Back in 1991 or so, I had Peter Weigle spread my McLean from 120 to 126, and in those days, we believed that going any further could cause damage. Hal didn't warn at all about going from 120 to 130, and the frame looks fine.
I'm going to be putting in a Hollowtech II BB and installing an Ultegra 6600 crankset. I just ordered the tool and the crank fixing bolt, and they'll arrive this week.
There's something about this bike I love so much. Maybe it is the flexibility, and maybe it's the fit, and maybe it's both. I've decided to sell my Bianchi Volpe, as it suits the same purpose and has the same features, and I just like the Raleigh better.
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#253
~>~
And there's no way I would have noticed the front triangle misalignment, nor could I have corrected it. He clamped the BB in the alignment table and bent the frame so as to make it parallel to the table. He had an interesting gauge to check. With the alignment table, that part was easy, even easier than the rear triangle.
Amazing how well a properly aligned machine handles vs. one that is just assembled assuming it is correct and sent on it's way.
Great that you have found an experienced craftsman w/ the now rare set-up to do the job properly.
Tempted to take all of your frames in now for a thorough QC?
-Bandera
#254
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You bet, @Bandera. Bicycle Habitat is a very good shop, but like others, there are no tools for working on steel frames. Hal also has the fork jig in his basement. I've used that, and it's a nice tool.
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#255
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#256
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I do know Jeff Z. His wife and I used to collaborate on the bike advocacy group. Haven't seen them in over three years.
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#257
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#258
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Whatever happened to the drum brake idea? I was hoping for a review. Never used them but was always intrigued. I had some drum brake hubs for some time in my parts bin, but ended up donating them to a coop when I left SF.
#259
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I sold the rear to @jimmuller, and he's keeping it as a spare, in case the rear hub on his tandem goes south.
The front is on my Raleigh Twenty, a project of mine on hold for over a year. That is where it should prove useful, as the brakes that originally came on that bike were unconscionably bad. I basically consider that bike unusable without a brake upgrade.
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#260
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Thanks for the comments noglider. I don't remember the drum brake hubs I had as being terribly heavy, but it's been years. They were Sachs brand w/ aluminum shells.
FWIW that Raleigh 20 looks great with that front hub brake. Like it was always meant to have one.
FWIW that Raleigh 20 looks great with that front hub brake. Like it was always meant to have one.
#261
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OK, the new incantation works. I've been home sick for three days and have put in a little work each day. It now rides.
These are the changes:
Rear wheel: used Bontrager, 24 spokes
Cassette: new 8-speed
Rear derailleur: used Sora
Front derailleur: used Ultegra
Cranks: used Ultegra
Small chainring: used Ultegra
Middle and large chainrings: new RaceFace
Shifters: Used Sora
Tires: new Clement Strada LGG 32mm (60 tpi)
I'm impressed with how well the rear derailleur works. On the other hand, I'm disgusted with how poorly the front derailleur works. I hope adjustment will fix that. The problem may be in the design of the left shifter. I'm a little leery of Sora stuff, since there's so much plastic.
I have to put the rack back on and also install the fenders that I have been meaning to install.
The tires are very nice. I inflated them to around 50 or 60. They're narrower than the Vittoria Voyager Hypers I had, but they are plush enough, for sure.
These are the changes:
Rear wheel: used Bontrager, 24 spokes
Cassette: new 8-speed
Rear derailleur: used Sora
Front derailleur: used Ultegra
Cranks: used Ultegra
Small chainring: used Ultegra
Middle and large chainrings: new RaceFace
Shifters: Used Sora
Tires: new Clement Strada LGG 32mm (60 tpi)
I'm impressed with how well the rear derailleur works. On the other hand, I'm disgusted with how poorly the front derailleur works. I hope adjustment will fix that. The problem may be in the design of the left shifter. I'm a little leery of Sora stuff, since there's so much plastic.
I have to put the rack back on and also install the fenders that I have been meaning to install.
The tires are very nice. I inflated them to around 50 or 60. They're narrower than the Vittoria Voyager Hypers I had, but they are plush enough, for sure.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Last edited by noglider; 11-04-16 at 02:56 PM.
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@noglider can't see the pix
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That looks great!
#264
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Fixed. The cables are too long, on purpose, so I can make adjustments. Friction tape was a terrible idea for temporary handlebar tape. It's sticky on the outside and it leaves dirt on my hands, it doesn't provide cushioning, and it smells.
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Hey noglider, great looking build! I can't quite tell from the pic, does the rear brake cable housing pass through the first guide just behind the head tube and terminate at the stop behind that? It's probably just light reflecting off that portion housing that makes it look to me like it might be exposed cable (on mobile), but worth asking...! What do you have on the front spokes? I assume those little 'straws' are reflective.
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#267
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@sir name, unfortunately the housing doesn't fit through the first guide, so I had to strip off the plastic sheath. I'd love a suggestion for fixing that. I guess modern housing is thicker?
Also, the cable guides are on the right, but the rear brake is on the left, so the cable has to go around the seat post. I don't like that. I could either abandon the guides and use clamp-on guides or use a right-pull brake caliper.
Those straws are reflective. I like 'em. They're cheap. I put one on each fourth spoke on the front wheel of my bikes. I haven't gotten around to observing them from afar, but I suspect they work well, as they catch my eye at home.
I can't decide if mismatched rims bother me. Maybe I'll address that at some point. This rear wheel might not last, as it's a lightweight racing wheel.
@nlerner, thanks! @ascherer, you can see the pictures now. Darn google photos.
Also, the cable guides are on the right, but the rear brake is on the left, so the cable has to go around the seat post. I don't like that. I could either abandon the guides and use clamp-on guides or use a right-pull brake caliper.
Those straws are reflective. I like 'em. They're cheap. I put one on each fourth spoke on the front wheel of my bikes. I haven't gotten around to observing them from afar, but I suspect they work well, as they catch my eye at home.
I can't decide if mismatched rims bother me. Maybe I'll address that at some point. This rear wheel might not last, as it's a lightweight racing wheel.
@nlerner, thanks! @ascherer, you can see the pictures now. Darn google photos.
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#268
Still learning
#269
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I can't get the value out of all the accessories I put in, so I'll probably take off the dynamo lighting, fenders, and rack.
I'd like to know what you think of the International, so hurry up and get it done.
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#270
~>~
It would be interesting to interview the original designer at Carlton who oversaw International production on how the design has endured and morphed into so many successful owner-mods for the last 40 years or so.
Does anyone know who that might be, and if they are still with us?
-Bandera
Does anyone know who that might be, and if they are still with us?
-Bandera
#271
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It's the result of decades of slow evolution, using what worked.
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#272
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Tom, it looks great! I think we must have an International ride very soon!
I pretty much wrapped up my build just tonight. Built the front wheel yesterday and today I swapped over drop bars and re-cabled everything. Like you my cables are long to allow tweaking. I didn't have any problem with the housing on the top tube guides. On my frame the side of the front guide is cut away on the non-drive side, so the housing fits in sideways rather than having to go through an opening. It's sort or like a hook rather than a full loop, if you can picture that.
I pretty much wrapped up my build just tonight. Built the front wheel yesterday and today I swapped over drop bars and re-cabled everything. Like you my cables are long to allow tweaking. I didn't have any problem with the housing on the top tube guides. On my frame the side of the front guide is cut away on the non-drive side, so the housing fits in sideways rather than having to go through an opening. It's sort or like a hook rather than a full loop, if you can picture that.
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Ah, that explains it. I used Jagwire Pro cables on my '71 International - they're a good fit and work well.
Pro Compressionless Brake Housing | Jagwire
Too bad about the right-side cable guides versus left-side caliper stop. I think I'd be tempted to use centerpulls in that case, or maybe see what's what with mount the existing caliper to the underside of the seat stays - but hey, whatever works.
How do you like those bars?
Pro Compressionless Brake Housing | Jagwire
Too bad about the right-side cable guides versus left-side caliper stop. I think I'd be tempted to use centerpulls in that case, or maybe see what's what with mount the existing caliper to the underside of the seat stays - but hey, whatever works.
How do you like those bars?
@sir name, unfortunately the housing doesn't fit through the first guide, so I had to strip off the plastic sheath. I'd love a suggestion for fixing that. I guess modern housing is thicker?
Also, the cable guides are on the right, but the rear brake is on the left, so the cable has to go around the seat post. I don't like that. I could either abandon the guides and use clamp-on guides or use a right-pull brake caliper.
Those straws are reflective. I like 'em. They're cheap. I put one on each fourth spoke on the front wheel of my bikes. I haven't gotten around to observing them from afar, but I suspect they work well, as they catch my eye at home.
I can't decide if mismatched rims bother me. Maybe I'll address that at some point. This rear wheel might not last, as it's a lightweight racing wheel.
@nlerner, thanks! @ascherer, you can see the pictures now. Darn google photos.
Also, the cable guides are on the right, but the rear brake is on the left, so the cable has to go around the seat post. I don't like that. I could either abandon the guides and use clamp-on guides or use a right-pull brake caliper.
Those straws are reflective. I like 'em. They're cheap. I put one on each fourth spoke on the front wheel of my bikes. I haven't gotten around to observing them from afar, but I suspect they work well, as they catch my eye at home.
I can't decide if mismatched rims bother me. Maybe I'll address that at some point. This rear wheel might not last, as it's a lightweight racing wheel.
@nlerner, thanks! @ascherer, you can see the pictures now. Darn google photos.
Last edited by Sir_Name; 11-06-16 at 09:22 AM.
#274
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Yeah I'm thinking of trying some MAFAC brakes. I have a spare set, and the frame was built with center pulls in mind.
Thanks Andy. Yes let's do that.
Thanks Andy. Yes let's do that.
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#275
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The Mafacs are working beautifully on mine. Don't like the levers, though. I have a set of aero Exage levers that I used with Mafacs on my PX-10 that work quite well. Black hoods, and they don't fit the rest of the build which is reasonably period correct. Maybe if they had tan or white hoods...