Beginner Inquiries
08-18-11 | 06:04 PM
#26
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From: Seattle, WA
Another question, if anyone could help.
When I test-rode the bicycle, the brake pads did not rub. However, now they are, since I put the wheel back on after transporting it. I Googled brake alignment (for some reason), and it lead me to believe my wheel was misaligned. Sure enough. So I look up wheel truing. Apparently, I need to funk around with the spokes, and need a bunch of tools. CRAP!
Obviously, I plan to purchase tools at a later date before I really NEED this bicycle running, but I am wondering - why is the wheel now misaligned only after I (an inexperienced wrencher) put the wheel back on...?
When I test-rode the bicycle, the brake pads did not rub. However, now they are, since I put the wheel back on after transporting it. I Googled brake alignment (for some reason), and it lead me to believe my wheel was misaligned. Sure enough. So I look up wheel truing. Apparently, I need to funk around with the spokes, and need a bunch of tools. CRAP!
Obviously, I plan to purchase tools at a later date before I really NEED this bicycle running, but I am wondering - why is the wheel now misaligned only after I (an inexperienced wrencher) put the wheel back on...?
08-18-11 | 06:11 PM
#27
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
You really probably only need one tool, the proper spoke wrench for your nipples. You can just flip your bike over and use your brakes as your measuring point, if you know how lacing works, you'll know which nipples to tighten as you turn the wheel and see if it pulls right or left in specific spots.
08-18-11 | 06:43 PM
#29
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Okay, the lacing thing is basic, you just look at which end of your hub the lace is spoked to, ie if it's pull right and that right side spoke is loose, tighten it down. (not excessively) you'll need to go back and forth on the respective spokes tightening and loosening as needed. You have a couple options for a trueing stand, you can buy one (excessive with only one bike I think), you could possibly get a fork of appropriate size (get something with a larger spacing so you can true any wheel down the line) but you'd need to find a way to mount it, or you can cut a piece of wood possibly notch it out so your shifter levers can slide into the hole and your bars can rest on top, even throw a towel or something over it if your afraid of nicks etc... hope this helped. (Added: Sometimes the problem with pull will be a tight one also, so don't always assume you need to tighten the nipple). Also, I would be willing to bet the spoke wrench you need is the Black Park Spoke Wrench, they come in a variety of colors, so be sure you get the right one.
Last edited by RaleighSport; 08-18-11 at 06:45 PM. Reason: added info to help more :D
08-18-11 | 09:51 PM
#31
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
a picture's worth a thousand words. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU2yKPRglaM
08-18-11 | 10:08 PM
#32
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From: Seattle, WA
Thank you for the video!
Also, here is a picture of why I think it needs truing. Am I correct in my assumption? Or is there something I may have done wrong putting the wheel back onto the bicycle?
Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr
(Click for larger image)
edit: Only 50 seconds into this video and it already makes so much sense!
edit: Now that I think about it, the wheel truing may not be the issue... The wheel rubs on the pad (or vise-versa) a lot, rather than in one or two spots. So I tightened up the nuts, and now it is too far to the right, rubbing the other pad. How loose can these be? It will not line up correctly without one of the nuts being looser than feels comfortable, and the wheel wobbles to and fro.
Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr
EUREKA! My bicycle is now ride-able! Now to adjust the brakes so that the front of them touches first, and to pump up the front a bit. Not sure I have the correct size wrench for the brakes though. And I need a hand pump. And, and, and!
Also, here is a picture of why I think it needs truing. Am I correct in my assumption? Or is there something I may have done wrong putting the wheel back onto the bicycle?
Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr
(Click for larger image)
edit: Only 50 seconds into this video and it already makes so much sense!
edit: Now that I think about it, the wheel truing may not be the issue... The wheel rubs on the pad (or vise-versa) a lot, rather than in one or two spots. So I tightened up the nuts, and now it is too far to the right, rubbing the other pad. How loose can these be? It will not line up correctly without one of the nuts being looser than feels comfortable, and the wheel wobbles to and fro.
Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr
EUREKA! My bicycle is now ride-able! Now to adjust the brakes so that the front of them touches first, and to pump up the front a bit. Not sure I have the correct size wrench for the brakes though. And I need a hand pump. And, and, and!
Last edited by uRabbit; 08-18-11 at 10:34 PM.
08-19-11 | 12:16 AM
#33
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!! Welcome to being a cyclist!
Are those sidepull weinmans or however it's spelled? (the brakes) cool to see something other then the standard top pull diacompes my schwinn has the latter, but it's relatively younger then yours
Are those sidepull weinmans or however it's spelled? (the brakes) cool to see something other then the standard top pull diacompes my schwinn has the latter, but it's relatively younger then yours
Last edited by RaleighSport; 08-19-11 at 01:05 AM.
08-19-11 | 09:16 AM
#34
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From: Seattle, WA
I feel like such a noob! Haha! But at least I figured it out - and it was a bit fun trying to get it centered.
I am not sure what they are - gotta remember, I am barebones noob material here! Haha
I am not sure what they are - gotta remember, I am barebones noob material here! Haha
08-19-11 | 11:33 AM
#35
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Would it make you feel any better to know I've only had the bicycling bug for 3-4 months now? And is there anything else basic enough for me to help ya with?
08-19-11 | 12:02 PM
#36
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From: Seattle, WA
No it does not help! Look at all your bicycles and your knowledge! Ha
Well, I am still having issues with shifting. Cannot seem to get into 2 or 3. I can get between HI and LO with acceptable ease.
Well, I am still having issues with shifting. Cannot seem to get into 2 or 3. I can get between HI and LO with acceptable ease.
08-19-11 | 04:12 PM
#37
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Friction Shifters on the handlebar stem right? And we're talking about changing the rear gear I am assuming by first do you mean the smallest gear on the outside of the cogs? There could be a couple problems I can think of off the top of my head number one, is the cable wasn't tensioned right on the rear deraileur, two is you just need to adjust the maximum arm reach screws, there should be two screws side by side on the derailer, one controls the reach out from the frame the other in towards the wheel, it took me a LONG time the first time I did it but I learned a lot. And yes having a lot of bikes does indeed help me, but only in the sense it forces me to learn to address many more problems. Other then the Peugeot all mine are salvaged from the dumps, and then tuned up/repaired/or repainted by me, made me learn A LOT really really fast.
08-19-11 | 07:47 PM
#38
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From: Seattle, WA
Wish I could find a bicycle dump in my area!
I will look into what you suggested, Googling how-to's and what-not. And seeing what tools I need. Most likely, however, I will have to wait till I go to Boise Bicycle Project.
I will look into what you suggested, Googling how-to's and what-not. And seeing what tools I need. Most likely, however, I will have to wait till I go to Boise Bicycle Project.
08-19-11 | 07:50 PM
#39
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
It isn't a bicycle dump, our local dumps have recycling yards in them, you can buy peoples old "trash" for almost scrap prices. I'd guess most urban areas probably have them.. but then again I didn't see anything like them in Ohio when I lived there. With the one bike I think you should be able to get an ideal toolset for fairly cheap for it.. you'll just need to know what size wrenchs etc I'm sure that bicycle project place will help you out a lot.
08-19-11 | 09:26 PM
#40
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From: Seattle, WA
Emailed an older guy who sells bicycle parts on Craigslist. Here was his response:
Doesn't sound too shady to me, and his prices seem good. Would have to see the quality of the items.
Sorry for the blank I probably sent. Dave, I have the NEW tools and parts you need and I will save you about half.
1. a compact tool set (folds together) for $12 with all the Allen wrenches and sockets to fit any bike (this retails for $30).
2. several compact pumps - all from $8 to $16 that will attach to your frame .
3. a double sized patch kit (in a clever box) that contains a bunch of patches and the plastic tools to remove your tube/tire easily. $5.50 or smaller kits from $3.50.
4. I sell helmets and safety gear at absolute cost: I have a dozen in hand (all but 2 new) from $12 to $35 in all sizes/colors for road or mountain or both.
So, all that would set you back about $40 to $50! If you bring your bike I will give you a free safety inspection and make sure that your fit is good on the bike. I have lots of accessories that you can pick up as you go -- stuff on the bike and stuff for you to wear. These are all premium products and this is NOT a business, it is my retirement hobby, and I am a rider as well (starting back in that 3 to 5 cog era). If I don't have something, like a part, I will help you find it either with a LBS or on the internet.
Call me at [omitted] an we can meet at your convenience as I am home most days and evenings. Come take a look and thank for the inquiry.
1. a compact tool set (folds together) for $12 with all the Allen wrenches and sockets to fit any bike (this retails for $30).
2. several compact pumps - all from $8 to $16 that will attach to your frame .
3. a double sized patch kit (in a clever box) that contains a bunch of patches and the plastic tools to remove your tube/tire easily. $5.50 or smaller kits from $3.50.
4. I sell helmets and safety gear at absolute cost: I have a dozen in hand (all but 2 new) from $12 to $35 in all sizes/colors for road or mountain or both.
So, all that would set you back about $40 to $50! If you bring your bike I will give you a free safety inspection and make sure that your fit is good on the bike. I have lots of accessories that you can pick up as you go -- stuff on the bike and stuff for you to wear. These are all premium products and this is NOT a business, it is my retirement hobby, and I am a rider as well (starting back in that 3 to 5 cog era). If I don't have something, like a part, I will help you find it either with a LBS or on the internet.
Call me at [omitted] an we can meet at your convenience as I am home most days and evenings. Come take a look and thank for the inquiry.
08-19-11 | 09:33 PM
#41
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
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From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
That guy sounds awesome and the prices seem reasonable to my untrained eye, but I'd keep an eye on the brands or at least ask him about them just to make sure you aren't cheaping out to far on important things!
08-19-11 | 10:21 PM
#43
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Toronto
Bikes: Pinarello Veneto, Pinarello Montello, Bianchi Celeste
i thought clothing is optional....
08-20-11 | 08:08 PM
#44
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From: Seattle, WA
Went to the Craigslist guy. Seems like a decent guy, alright. Injured himself in a few triathlon competitions, causing some hematoma, so he is alright in my book! Haha.
When I get onto my computer, I will make a list of the items I got and show you all what I paid.
While I was over there, I was showing him my issue with shifting, and he pointed out that my cable was super loose! Ha! However, in the process, the rear shifter cable snapped. Haha! Well, should be fun. Ha. He says he can get those cheap also.
He also has plans to set me up with a new set of tires and tubes. Front tires is showing its age, with some separation starting.
When I was putting the front wheel back on, I had a little difficulty again getting it lined up. Is there some trick I need to know? Also, I had to shove it past the brake shoes. Is this okay? Does not seem like it should be normal...
So, back to shifting these stem shifter levers... What is the madness behind it? Let's say, for the front gears (HI and LO or small and big). To shift into the HI/small gear, I have it up? And for LO/big gear, I have it down?
This would all be so much easier with a repair stand and the appropriate tools! Argh!
When I get onto my computer, I will make a list of the items I got and show you all what I paid.
While I was over there, I was showing him my issue with shifting, and he pointed out that my cable was super loose! Ha! However, in the process, the rear shifter cable snapped. Haha! Well, should be fun. Ha. He says he can get those cheap also.
He also has plans to set me up with a new set of tires and tubes. Front tires is showing its age, with some separation starting.
When I was putting the front wheel back on, I had a little difficulty again getting it lined up. Is there some trick I need to know? Also, I had to shove it past the brake shoes. Is this okay? Does not seem like it should be normal...
So, back to shifting these stem shifter levers... What is the madness behind it? Let's say, for the front gears (HI and LO or small and big). To shift into the HI/small gear, I have it up? And for LO/big gear, I have it down?
This would all be so much easier with a repair stand and the appropriate tools! Argh!
08-20-11 | 09:01 PM
#45
Hogosha Sekai
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
Likes: 26
From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Two simple choices for the front wheel, don't air the tire till it's mounted (probably the better) or unhook your brake cable while you mount the wheel. In theory if your wheel is locked in place and true and the right spacing for the frame and the frame is straight, simply tightening properly will align the wheel. And yes that's how it works for those friction shifters... fun isn't it? it's because the front derailer starts inside on it's spring arm, so your pulling it back over to the larger gear. The back is the opposite the spring arm you set to start at the outside gear, and it then pulls to the inside. Reversed arm directions, reverse levers... I don't get it either but hey we're not bike gurus. (A note on rear wheels) If you have the axle unevenly spaced in the drop outs in the rear, you will have an issue, but it's easy to tell just look at the seat stays etc, and see that the wheel lines up in the center of the arch.
08-20-11 | 10:15 PM
#46
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From: Seattle, WA
Here is what I scored today.
- used Bontrager seat (free)
- Road Rage road lube
- Power Beam head lamp x2
- Rear lamp x2
- Reumafonds patch kit w/ 2 tire levers
- Sette 100 psi mini hand pump
- Schwinn helmet
Total of $67.
Gotta love local retired cyclists!
- used Bontrager seat (free)
- Road Rage road lube
- Power Beam head lamp x2
- Rear lamp x2
- Reumafonds patch kit w/ 2 tire levers
- Sette 100 psi mini hand pump
- Schwinn helmet
Total of $67.
Gotta love local retired cyclists!
08-21-11 | 08:58 AM
#48
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From: Seattle, WA
Would the Park Tools SK-1 be a good buy @ $75?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20
It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that.
I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20
It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that.
I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance.
08-21-11 | 09:11 AM
#49
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Would the Park Tools SK-1 be a good buy @ $75?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20
It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that.
I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20
It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that.
I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance.
I also have quite a few other, older brands.Park Tools also has tutorials on their website on how to do certain things on the bike.
We all had to start somewhere as a bike mechanic, my start was around 8 years old.
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
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Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
08-21-11 | 09:26 AM
#50
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Seattle, WA
You're lucky, Aaron - I never had the opportunities for much as a kid. My parents sheltered me in more ways than one. Ha.
I already know about that site. It is bookmarked and... *checks* it is actually open in a tab right now.
That Park tool kit LOOKS like it has everything I absolutely need. And I could throw some of the more essential items in my backpack when I go on rides. I think I might get that kit. Was HOPING to find something as inclusive, for under $50.
I already know about that site. It is bookmarked and... *checks* it is actually open in a tab right now.
That Park tool kit LOOKS like it has everything I absolutely need. And I could throw some of the more essential items in my backpack when I go on rides. I think I might get that kit. Was HOPING to find something as inclusive, for under $50.