Nice score, and I personally can't answer on tools. I've been buying 1 at a time as needed, but I already owned a good mechanics toolset and a ton of other random tools from all my years handymanning/working in construction etc. But as the other guy said, you can't go wrong with Park, I go out of my way to make sure I get Park when I need a bike specific tool. My next one is probably going to be the spoke tensionometer for building my own wheels.. under 50 for a tool kit? I'll see what I can find.

Thanks, RaleighSport! I have a list on my other thread of tools that I think I need. Feels like I am missing some things though.

As for a repair stand, I am hoping to get a trunk rack for our bicycles that could double as a repair stand. Most likely, however, I will attempt to build one.

Picked up a '74 for my wife. Added it to my build thread. See it here.

Also picked up some cleaner for the paint and non-mechanical metals, which can also be seen at the above link.

I found out about a shop in-town. The gal who sold us the '74 Schwinn said they charge $25/hr, and when they replaced two of her spokes, it took them 15 minutes. She says she went to high school with the guys who own/work there. Is $25/hr a good rate. I do not intend to become a professional bicycle repair guru, so I will have to find a place to do some work. Work such as replacing my gear cable. I would like to do general tune-ups. Possibly the most mechanically-detailed thing I will do is lubing the hubs. I plan to do this when I get my tools.

I am still going around in circles over tools. The Park Tools SK-1 is $75 on Amazon, but it has some things I don't need and some things are missing that I do need, such as 8mm and 10mm wrenches for adjusting the brake housing (is that what it's called?).

Best tools I have picked up so far are 2 books on bicycle maintenance. I went to my local Half Price Books (discount book shop) and ended up picking up a new one and an old one. They complement each other really well. Here are a few links to the books themselves:

The old one:
https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-...3978972&sr=8-1

The new one:
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Comp...3979034&sr=1-1
(There is a newer version of this out. This was the newest one they had.)

Hope that helps.

Those look great, Chef Bigs. I have been using Park Tools' repair blog so far, and it has served pretty well. However, I am not opposed to reading 'the old fashioned way'. I will have to see if the library or our local discount book stores have them. Or add them to my tools list.

Which brings me to that. I have compiled a list on amazon of the tools that I think may suit me well, for now. Here it is:
Park Tool SK-1 Home Mechanic Starter Tool Kit
Park Tool DCW-2 Double Ended Cone Wrench (15mm and 16mm) (kit comes w/ only 1)
Park Tool DCW-1 Double Ended Cone Wrench (13mm and 14mm) (kit comes w/ only 1)
Park Tool CBW-1 Metric Wrench with 8mm and 10mm Open Ends (do I need two?)
Park Tool CBW-4 Metric Wrench with 9mm and 11mm Open Ends (do I need two?)

edit: Total = $100 w/ free shipping. Good deal? Any advice? More items?

Replacing cable is so much simpler than regreasing hubs imho.

I might give it a shot, but it seems like I could really screw things up!

He's right Rabbit, and believe me you should be able to tell if the cables wrong very quickly after you adjust it, and it'll give you a better idea of working on bikes in general. I'll probably get yelled at for mentioning this, but walmart sells bicycle cable kits, 2 brake/2 shifter with housings and end crimps for 5 bucks. So it's also not neccesarily expensive if you do somehow screw up the cable itself (which you probably won't). Alternately the same cable pack is on amazon for 8 bucks, dunno about shipping.

Thanks for the heads-up, RaleighSport.

I cannot find a guide on how to do gear cables. Brake cables, ya, but not gear.

I'll try to outline this simply (But I happen to own carpenter clamps so it might not work for you.)First undo the cable from the derailer, then I take my carpenter clamp and then lock the Derailer in the position for the first gear in the front it's the inside, the back the outside. Move the shifter lever all the way up, making sure it's lined up just right by eye from above with the chain ring corresponding, then it's just a matter of checking the cable all the way down from the lever to the derailer, and pulling the slack to the derailer, then you just hold it firmly(the cable) in place, then you tighten down the fastening bolt, then it's just a matter of adjusting the arm reach screws, so that the derailer won't go any further then the outside cogs. If you don't understand I'll be glad to explain any part that conufses you. I also use those clamps for adjusting my brakes, I can lock the arms in the position I want and then attach/tighten the cable, very very easy.

It sounds easy enough. However, that can be said for anything - it's when you get to doing it...

I don't have the tools for this, and will be dropping $100 on tools next check (after 5th). And that won't include anything that will help me with the cable job, I don't think.

https://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...kuId=202845557 this is similar to the tool I use, and they can be had very cheaply as can be seen. However, if your wife is willing you could possibly hold the brake or derailer yourself in the position while she tightens the cable for you. Teamwork and money saving

That is the tool I imagined. But, 'holding open the derailleur' is what I cannot picture. I am just not used to the mechanics is all. I will look up a video.

Edit: Well this is a confusing video! Haha

LoL I think I can clarify, what I'm refering to is the movement the derailer does over the gears. IE if you were on a mountain bike and set it at base for a 21 speed, you'd be on the inside of the 3 chainrings in the front, and on the outside of the 7 cogs in the back, it's a matter of getting the arm of the derailer into position, IE pressing it in in the case of the back, or out in the case of the front, with the rear you can look down from the cage pulley, and make sure it's cog is lined up with the rear wheel cog, does this make more sense?

A Flying Pigeon is probably the most common bicycle ever. It is a Chinese copy of the Raleigh DL-1 of 1913. It's what all the workers had back when all Chinese bicycled to work.

If the wheels, pedal cranks, or steering fork and handlebars feel loose and can wobble when not turning, the bearings need adjusting. Riding even a short distance can ruin them. For example, lift the back of the bike, grab the rear wheel, and try to shake it from side to side. It should not clunk around. The pedal cranks should just turn and should not feel as if they can wobble around loose, not even a millimeter.

If you get new tires, don't use high pressure. The steel rims are smooth sided on the inside and do not have a hook bead or ridge to grasp the tire bead.

parktool.com or a book from the library ought to have guides on gear cables. The rear derailleur ought to want to be closer to the wheel or in low gear (low to pedal, but the largest sprocket) when the cable is slack. Just attach the cable at the derailleur when the lever is in the slackest position, and make sure the derailleur can move to or just past the outermost, smallest sprocket when the lever is moved to higher cable tension. Then use the derailleur limit screws to keep the derailleur from moving the chain off the sprockets too far to the right or the left.

Make sure the chain's not stretched or you're wearing down your sprockets. The distance between the centers of 25 pins should be 12" and 12-1/8" is too much.

Can't find the guide for gear/shifter cables @ Park's repair blog, garage sale GT.

Learned some things today on a test ride with our two bicycles.

1) The bicycle pump I purchased from that retired professional cyclist absolutely sucks.
2) The rear LED blinkers are inconsistent in quality - the one I mounted on my wife's bicycle tightened just fine, but the one on mine will not tighten much because of a defect.

Also, I installed the bicycle wall mount upside-down. Haha!

I am having trouble finding 27" tubes. I would like to get 27" Prestas. And what is the width? 27xWhat?

What kind of tubes and tires should I do?

Before you ride farther than walking distance from home, get these:

frame mounted pump (to reinflate the repaired tire)
patch kit (to patch the hole)
spare tube (in the proper size)
tire removal irons (levers to rermove tire from rim)
Small adjustable wrench (to remove the wheel from the frame)
Small seat mounted pouch to hold all the above (so you have it with you when you need it)

Crusty old bikes can exhibit difficulty shifting due to corrosion of the cable. Disassemble and lubricate cable or replace old style cable with modern, plastic-lined cable housings.

Your rear derailleur is steel. It could also be corroded and dysfunctional. Lubricate the mechanism with oil and operate the derailleur to distribute the oil.

Don't get presta valves unless you also buy adapters. The hole in the rim is too big and you could have the valvestem blow out.

Boy, that's wierd...it only says "valvestem" once when you edit.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...illeur-systems 700c inner tubes work fine. Get 28 or 32 mm. Schraeder valves work great too, and won't look out of place.

Make sure the tires you buy are not for hook bead rims only.

Hmm. I was told that 700c would not work. I hate conflicting ideas. >.< I'll take your word for it though, as this is the C&V forum.

Recommend any tires?

Also, my wife's front tire is being odd. Here it is:


If you look closely, you will see that the tire seems to be 'sucked in' at one point. Follow the tire from the bottom, up the left. Where the fender starts, you will see the 'line' of the tire dip into the wheel. Just before the support for the fender.

Anymore they don't make 27" specific tubes but 700c and 27" tubes are 100% interchangeable, for a given cross section. Some brands may even mark the box with 700c/27".

Good to know.

Any ideas on the wife's tire? I'm thinking that the last time it was deflated them pumped, it may have been on the bicycle standing up when it was done, thus making the tire sit unevenly. I will dismount it and do it, one of these days. Ha!

Your issue with the tire is probably that the bead has not seated into the rim hook in that area. When that happens to me, I inflate the tire to desired pressure, and, by hand, force the bead into the hook by grasping the tire and rolling it upward from the rim in the affected area. Typically, it will gently ease into place.
If it is not a hook bead rim then I don't know the answer. Possibly the tube is pinched between the bead and the rim, in which case it is in imminent danger of blowing out and you should deflate & remount the tire immediately to prevent that.