Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
07-01-17, 05:35 AM
#3501
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I've been reading this with interest. You guys are really some kind of geeks about this Ironman thing. 
TP&J, we may have to discuss the 54cm Smoke on the Water...
Cankle, I may have some tips....
Maybe I should check into this Ironman thing.....you guys are crazy.
(cue:."The Kids Are All Right".......)
TP&J, we may have to discuss the 54cm Smoke on the Water...
Cankle, I may have some tips....
Maybe I should check into this Ironman thing.....you guys are crazy.
(cue:."The Kids Are All Right".......)
07-01-17, 06:53 AM
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Cankle, et al.....
700x25's are being run on my Ironman models ('88, '89) and 700x24 tubulars are on my '90 (Aussie version) Carbon-R (Ironman Carbon with the flexiness addressed on the fork and wishbone seat stay(s).
I've not been able to run 700x28's yet, as the rear tire rubs on my calipers (DA 7700's). Others have. I think it depends more on the calipers used and the brand of tire. Good luck making them fit, and I'm sure there's a difference in ride quality. When a rear brake bridge arches upward from a horizontal "ladder step," the tire gets recessed higher into the caliper. This is the issue, not so much fork or bridge clearance. On mine, the issue is about 1mm to 2mm, so perhaps a caliper change would work.
The stem/bars on your '89 are not the OEM, Nitto Young/B115 was the OEM, but nothing would surprise me. The Ironman Information Thread (now a STICKY!) would have a lot of the info you need.
I definitely use the rear axle adjusters, and I am running 130 BCD rear wheels on all of mine. The frames are not that precisely made to think the line-up is perfect when the wheel is fully seated, pulled all the way back into the dropout. The axle adjusters help me center the wheel, which I do when they are snug but not tight, and I do it by the eyeball measurement system. It is not hard to do, especially with the chain off. This helps center the wheel, which mitigates chain wear and also mitigates chances of the dreaded chainstay rub. Loose QR's and climbing combine to: 1-stop you in your tracks, 2-create a paint/finish defect inside the L chainstay, and 3-wear/ruin the L side bead of a rear tire. Why chance it?
As far as where the original owner "placed" the rear wheel in the dropout, that's purely arbitrary and the performance should be the same no matter where in the droput the wheel is placed, as long as its hub is perpendicular to the center line of the frame.
Regarding drive train noise with the GPX. Could be the chain, but if you dropped by my garage, I'd first put in a set of rear axle adjusters and align it. Then I'd check the drivetrain for wear, lube the FD and RD pivot points, clean the chain and check it for wear. It was not a great chain, noisy but durable. An 8-sp KMC or SRAM chain is probably 50% better, 50% lighter with better technology. Remember, those Suntour freewheel teeth are straight-cut and are going to be noisy if the chain line is not pretty accurate, which begs back to the rear axle alignment. I'm a fan of GPX, and it should be reasonably quiet, except when you shift, which is a very distinct click and thunk when the chain seats itself. Keep the hoods clean and everything in tune, and you have a direct competitor to the original "tri-color" but with heavier shifting action and lighter calipers.
Caliper alignment should not be an issue if the cable housing is within reason, and not susceptible to bar movement. There's sort of a trick to aligning single pivots. I can't describe it, but once you pick it up, you will rarely have another problem. They are more susceptible to grime and sticking in the pivot, so always check that first.
Swapping the Suntour freewheel for a ramped Shimano model may/may not work. If it did, it would reduce the noise. The shifting would remain heavy but solid, less the thunk when the chain settled onto the cogs. The Shimano spacing is different, both at the shifter and at the rear, but given the slop in an 8-sp chain, perhaps it might work. I have two complete, very nice sets of GPX sitting here, including wheels, plus a spare set of hubs, plus a spare set of the non-GPX but 7-sp nonetheless shifters. As such, I'm invested and necessarily biased....
...
...which sort of brings me to TP&J's 54cm Ironman frameset.... ooh la la. If I remember, we had some sort of "if you ever get rid of it..." discussion.
700x25's are being run on my Ironman models ('88, '89) and 700x24 tubulars are on my '90 (Aussie version) Carbon-R (Ironman Carbon with the flexiness addressed on the fork and wishbone seat stay(s).
I've not been able to run 700x28's yet, as the rear tire rubs on my calipers (DA 7700's). Others have. I think it depends more on the calipers used and the brand of tire. Good luck making them fit, and I'm sure there's a difference in ride quality. When a rear brake bridge arches upward from a horizontal "ladder step," the tire gets recessed higher into the caliper. This is the issue, not so much fork or bridge clearance. On mine, the issue is about 1mm to 2mm, so perhaps a caliper change would work.
The stem/bars on your '89 are not the OEM, Nitto Young/B115 was the OEM, but nothing would surprise me. The Ironman Information Thread (now a STICKY!) would have a lot of the info you need.
I definitely use the rear axle adjusters, and I am running 130 BCD rear wheels on all of mine. The frames are not that precisely made to think the line-up is perfect when the wheel is fully seated, pulled all the way back into the dropout. The axle adjusters help me center the wheel, which I do when they are snug but not tight, and I do it by the eyeball measurement system. It is not hard to do, especially with the chain off. This helps center the wheel, which mitigates chain wear and also mitigates chances of the dreaded chainstay rub. Loose QR's and climbing combine to: 1-stop you in your tracks, 2-create a paint/finish defect inside the L chainstay, and 3-wear/ruin the L side bead of a rear tire. Why chance it?
As far as where the original owner "placed" the rear wheel in the dropout, that's purely arbitrary and the performance should be the same no matter where in the droput the wheel is placed, as long as its hub is perpendicular to the center line of the frame.
Regarding drive train noise with the GPX. Could be the chain, but if you dropped by my garage, I'd first put in a set of rear axle adjusters and align it. Then I'd check the drivetrain for wear, lube the FD and RD pivot points, clean the chain and check it for wear. It was not a great chain, noisy but durable. An 8-sp KMC or SRAM chain is probably 50% better, 50% lighter with better technology. Remember, those Suntour freewheel teeth are straight-cut and are going to be noisy if the chain line is not pretty accurate, which begs back to the rear axle alignment. I'm a fan of GPX, and it should be reasonably quiet, except when you shift, which is a very distinct click and thunk when the chain seats itself. Keep the hoods clean and everything in tune, and you have a direct competitor to the original "tri-color" but with heavier shifting action and lighter calipers.
Caliper alignment should not be an issue if the cable housing is within reason, and not susceptible to bar movement. There's sort of a trick to aligning single pivots. I can't describe it, but once you pick it up, you will rarely have another problem. They are more susceptible to grime and sticking in the pivot, so always check that first.
Swapping the Suntour freewheel for a ramped Shimano model may/may not work. If it did, it would reduce the noise. The shifting would remain heavy but solid, less the thunk when the chain settled onto the cogs. The Shimano spacing is different, both at the shifter and at the rear, but given the slop in an 8-sp chain, perhaps it might work. I have two complete, very nice sets of GPX sitting here, including wheels, plus a spare set of hubs, plus a spare set of the non-GPX but 7-sp nonetheless shifters. As such, I'm invested and necessarily biased....
...
...which sort of brings me to TP&J's 54cm Ironman frameset.... ooh la la. If I remember, we had some sort of "if you ever get rid of it..." discussion.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 07-01-17 at 09:59 AM.
07-01-17, 06:59 AM
#3503
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That ' 89 Master is a rare bird, texaspandj...... Texas was the home of the Centurion team, so I think it's kind of cool you found a rare one in those colors. I like the name, too. Beats the hell out of "Crystal Blue Persuasion" or "Blue Moon"...
I've been away from the game for a while, but taking regular solo rides on my Centurions, generally 50 to 75 miles at a clip, stopping once, getting more and more fond of 9-sp DA, good mid-range wheels and the Ironman frame. Not that I was lacking in appreciation.
So good to know that when some person runs into the Ironman mystique, there are wizards about.
I've been away from the game for a while, but taking regular solo rides on my Centurions, generally 50 to 75 miles at a clip, stopping once, getting more and more fond of 9-sp DA, good mid-range wheels and the Ironman frame. Not that I was lacking in appreciation.
So good to know that when some person runs into the Ironman mystique, there are wizards about.
07-01-17, 07:38 AM
#3504
Senior Member
Thank you! My plans include new tires (I don't like the current solid black), a new saddle, some different pedals, and maybe different bar tape.
Both of my Centurions are roughly the same size frames yes. According to the catalogs my Elite GT is a 23" frame, and the Ironman is a 58cm. The Ironman is a hair smaller, and has smaller 700c wheels too.
As far as ride goes they are COMPLETELY different feeling. The Elite GT feels like a big luxury Cadillac, and the Ironman feels like a tight, nimble, sports car!
According to the 1985 catalog the dark anodized 600EX rear derailleur is stock and correct though. It's not SIS. The 1985 Ironman was friction shift only.
Both of my Centurions are roughly the same size frames yes. According to the catalogs my Elite GT is a 23" frame, and the Ironman is a 58cm. The Ironman is a hair smaller, and has smaller 700c wheels too.
As far as ride goes they are COMPLETELY different feeling. The Elite GT feels like a big luxury Cadillac, and the Ironman feels like a tight, nimble, sports car!
According to the 1985 catalog the dark anodized 600EX rear derailleur is stock and correct though. It's not SIS. The 1985 Ironman was friction shift only.
I'm not sure why I thought I saw your rear derailleur with SIS on it. But of course you're correct the 85 came with 600 ex.
All I saw was your amazing condition frame. What are you thinking on tires?
07-01-17, 02:13 PM
#3505
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Thanks, @RobbieTunes, very helpful info!
My Ironman is running and shifting much more smoothly with a new KMC Z72 chain. I've cleaned, waxed and stashed the original Suntour chain away as a keepsake/curiosity.
I'll try your suggestions on the adjustable dropouts. I'm curious to see how it runs with the wheel set farther back into the dropouts.
My Ironman is running and shifting much more smoothly with a new KMC Z72 chain. I've cleaned, waxed and stashed the original Suntour chain away as a keepsake/curiosity.
I'll try your suggestions on the adjustable dropouts. I'm curious to see how it runs with the wheel set farther back into the dropouts.
07-01-17, 04:57 PM
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Been riding just the Pro Tour and Sequoia this year. Just got out on the 85 Ironman. What a difference!
Since Photof*ckit removed my other pics, here's a replacement . . . for now anyway.
Since Photof*ckit removed my other pics, here's a replacement . . . for now anyway.
07-01-17, 05:32 PM
#3507
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With tires I'm really not dead set on anything yet, but the brown wall Panaracer Gravelkings are looking pretty good to me right now. I haven't done any research on reviews yet though. If anyone has any experience with them I'd love to hear your thoughts on them!
The Ironman really is in amazing condition though. I still haven't even given it a full cleaning since buying it. Before taking it out yesterday I did wipe the BB area with just a dry towel, and I was shocked at how nice the paint was under the grease and grime! This thing is going to really shine once I give it a full detail job!
Last edited by AustinFitz; 07-08-17 at 06:13 AM.
07-02-17, 10:12 AM
#3508
Senior Member
I wanted to post a pic of my 89 Ironman, however my tablet is not allowing me to do that. Hopefully soon as I'm very excited about it.
When I brought it home late Friday night I immediately took a couple of pics for prosperity. Then I sprayed it with a foam cleaner and left it over night. The next day I noticed the bottom bracket was tight or shot so I had to check it before I rode it. It was simply too tight and needed to be adjusted. I decided to rebuild it since I already had it out then before I knew it I took it down to bare frame (excluding fixed cup).
Honestly my initial plan was to wash it then ride before I decided my next move. But one thing lead to another and now I've done a complete wash and I've decided to clean and reinstall all its original components. The parts seem to be in great shape.
Some of the differences that I noted.
The bars say winpista win as does the stem. So no BA15 bars and nitto stem although they appear identical.
The bottom bracket is 6400, its actually reads shimano 600 then 6400.
The SN N0D5036
I'm starting to believe what @fleslider thinks, that this model would have been what was planned for 1990, which of course never came to fruition.
No matter I absolutely love this Ironman color scheme. And after a thorough cleaning I'm quite pleased. It has a few blemishes that should be expected for a 28 year old frame and can't be expected to be in the most excellent condition of my other 89 expert or my 88 master. Those two are show like like quality A la rccardr and RT, however without all the work.
Next is cleaning all components/overhaul and put some 42 b115 bars instead of the 39 winpista that are on there. Also to note it has 6400 clip in pedals, but not sure if that's oem to this model.
I've decided to keep it original with a thorough complete breakdown cleaning,... for now.
When I brought it home late Friday night I immediately took a couple of pics for prosperity. Then I sprayed it with a foam cleaner and left it over night. The next day I noticed the bottom bracket was tight or shot so I had to check it before I rode it. It was simply too tight and needed to be adjusted. I decided to rebuild it since I already had it out then before I knew it I took it down to bare frame (excluding fixed cup).
Honestly my initial plan was to wash it then ride before I decided my next move. But one thing lead to another and now I've done a complete wash and I've decided to clean and reinstall all its original components. The parts seem to be in great shape.
Some of the differences that I noted.
The bars say winpista win as does the stem. So no BA15 bars and nitto stem although they appear identical.
The bottom bracket is 6400, its actually reads shimano 600 then 6400.
The SN N0D5036
I'm starting to believe what @fleslider thinks, that this model would have been what was planned for 1990, which of course never came to fruition.
No matter I absolutely love this Ironman color scheme. And after a thorough cleaning I'm quite pleased. It has a few blemishes that should be expected for a 28 year old frame and can't be expected to be in the most excellent condition of my other 89 expert or my 88 master. Those two are show like like quality A la rccardr and RT, however without all the work.
Next is cleaning all components/overhaul and put some 42 b115 bars instead of the 39 winpista that are on there. Also to note it has 6400 clip in pedals, but not sure if that's oem to this model.
I've decided to keep it original with a thorough complete breakdown cleaning,... for now.
07-02-17, 11:58 AM
#3509
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Hey everybody. I am very interested in purchasing an ironman of some sort. I've checked the local craigslist and came up empty. Will anyone here take pity on my ironman-less soul and sell me one? I'd need something in the 58-62cm range.
07-02-17, 01:37 PM
#3510
Senior Member
I have a 54cm and a 52cm frame only possibly for sell however I think RT has first dibs on the 54. Not sure where you're located. Here's a couple in Texas. https://austin.craigslist.org/bik/6188707520.html
https://austin.craigslist.org/bik/6171319633.html
https://austin.craigslist.org/bik/6171319633.html
Last edited by texaspandj; 07-04-17 at 12:58 AM.
07-02-17, 03:22 PM
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07-02-17, 04:03 PM
#3512
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I wanted to post a pic of my 89 Ironman, however my tablet is not allowing me to do that. Hopefully soon as I'm very excited about it.
When I brought it home late Friday night I immediately took a couple of pics for prosperity. Then I sprayed it with a foam cleaner and left it over night. The next day I noticed the bottom bracket was tight or shot so I had to check it before I rode it. It was simply too tight and needed to be adjusted. I decided to rebuild it since I already had it out then before I knew it I took it down to bare frame (excluding fixed cup).
Honestly my initial plan was to wash it then ride before I decided my next move. But one thing lead to another and now I've done a complete wash and I've decided to clean and reinstall all its original components. The parts seem to be in great shape.
Some of the differences that I noted.
The bars say winpista win as does the stem. So no BA15 bars and nitto stem although they appear identical.
The bottom bracket is 6400, its actually reads shimano 600 then 6400.
The SN N0D5036
I'm starting to believe what @fleslider thinks, that this model would have been what was planned for 1990, which of course never came to fruition.
No matter I absolutely love this Ironman color scheme. And after a thorough cleaning I'm quite pleased. It has a few blemishes that should be expected for a 28 year old frame and can't be expected to be in the most excellent condition of my other 89 expert or my 88 master. Those two are show like like quality A la rccardr and RT, however without all the work.
Next is cleaning all components/overhaul and put some 42 b115 bars instead of the 39 winpista that are on there. Also to note it has 6400 clip in pedals, but not sure if that's oem to this model.
I've decided to keep it original with a thorough complete breakdown cleaning,... for now.
When I brought it home late Friday night I immediately took a couple of pics for prosperity. Then I sprayed it with a foam cleaner and left it over night. The next day I noticed the bottom bracket was tight or shot so I had to check it before I rode it. It was simply too tight and needed to be adjusted. I decided to rebuild it since I already had it out then before I knew it I took it down to bare frame (excluding fixed cup).
Honestly my initial plan was to wash it then ride before I decided my next move. But one thing lead to another and now I've done a complete wash and I've decided to clean and reinstall all its original components. The parts seem to be in great shape.
Some of the differences that I noted.
The bars say winpista win as does the stem. So no BA15 bars and nitto stem although they appear identical.
The bottom bracket is 6400, its actually reads shimano 600 then 6400.
The SN N0D5036
I'm starting to believe what @fleslider thinks, that this model would have been what was planned for 1990, which of course never came to fruition.
No matter I absolutely love this Ironman color scheme. And after a thorough cleaning I'm quite pleased. It has a few blemishes that should be expected for a 28 year old frame and can't be expected to be in the most excellent condition of my other 89 expert or my 88 master. Those two are show like like quality A la rccardr and RT, however without all the work.
Next is cleaning all components/overhaul and put some 42 b115 bars instead of the 39 winpista that are on there. Also to note it has 6400 clip in pedals, but not sure if that's oem to this model.
I've decided to keep it original with a thorough complete breakdown cleaning,... for now.
Speaking of things like that... Does anyone know if they totally abandoned the Ironman model when they dropped the Centurion name, or did they just redesign the paint and graphics, change the brand and model name to Diamond Back, and continue on for a year or 2? I've seen several nice looking Diamond Back road bikes from the very early '90s with the name Centurion on them as well. Usually in the model name...
Back to the Summertime Blues though. Out of all of the available paint schemes for the Ironman models over the years I'd have to say there are 3 that REALLY do it for me. Both the Super Metallic Red, and Titanium Silver 1985 offerings, and the 1989/1990 "Summertime Blues" as you called it. I really like that name for it too. It's very fitting!
I'd love to find myself a 1990 serial numbered Summertime Blues in my size now lol. 1990 was the year I was born, so I think that would be really cool. Any excuse for N+1
Looking forward to pics of yours!!!
Last edited by AustinFitz; 07-02-17 at 04:38 PM.
07-02-17, 07:26 PM
#3514
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07-02-17, 09:21 PM
#3516
Senior Member
To your knowledge how much is original?
I talked to the original owner of mine and she confirmed only saddle and consumables were replacements.
Mine Does Not have biopace.
What's your serial number again?
Last edited by texaspandj; 07-03-17 at 05:54 AM.
07-03-17, 12:18 PM
#3517
Senior Member
Bottom bracket from 89 master. It has caged bearings. They are not as smooth as loose bearings.
07-03-17, 12:45 PM
#3518
Full Member
07-03-17, 01:38 PM
#3519
Senior Member
Interesting both of the summertime blues, have end of February 1990 as the SN date. they are with in 149 of each other..
07-03-17, 01:42 PM
#3520
Senior Member
07-03-17, 01:44 PM
#3521
Senior Member
07-03-17, 02:00 PM
#3522
Senior Member
I'm really looking forward to seeing it cleaned up! Funny how my plan and execution were totally opposite of yours. I had planned on braking mine down for cleaning before I got into riding it, but one thing led to another and I've still yet to disassemble it for cleaning lol. Very interesting to think it might be the 1990 Ironman that never was. Seems logical enough to me though. Centurion seems to have all kinds of different model year anomalies and quirks lol.
Speaking of things like that... Does anyone know if they totally abandoned the Ironman model when they dropped the Centurion name, or did they just redesign the paint and graphics, change the brand and model name to Diamond Back, and continue on for a year or 2? I've seen several nice looking Diamond Back road bikes from the very early '90s with the name Centurion on them as well. Usually in the model name...
Back to the Summertime Blues though. Out of all of the available paint schemes for the Ironman models over the years I'd have to say there are 3 that REALLY do it for me. Both the Super Metallic Red, and Titanium Silver 1985 offerings, and the 1989/1990 "Summertime Blues" as you called it. I really like that name for it too. It's very fitting!
I'd love to find myself a 1990 serial numbered Summertime Blues in my size now lol. 1990 was the year I was born, so I think that would be really cool. Any excuse for N+1
Looking forward to pics of yours!!!
Speaking of things like that... Does anyone know if they totally abandoned the Ironman model when they dropped the Centurion name, or did they just redesign the paint and graphics, change the brand and model name to Diamond Back, and continue on for a year or 2? I've seen several nice looking Diamond Back road bikes from the very early '90s with the name Centurion on them as well. Usually in the model name...
Back to the Summertime Blues though. Out of all of the available paint schemes for the Ironman models over the years I'd have to say there are 3 that REALLY do it for me. Both the Super Metallic Red, and Titanium Silver 1985 offerings, and the 1989/1990 "Summertime Blues" as you called it. I really like that name for it too. It's very fitting!
I'd love to find myself a 1990 serial numbered Summertime Blues in my size now lol. 1990 was the year I was born, so I think that would be really cool. Any excuse for N+1
Looking forward to pics of yours!!!
Hope that helped
07-03-17, 02:02 PM
#3523
Senior Member
07-03-17, 02:04 PM
#3524
Senior Member
07-03-17, 02:11 PM
#3525
Senior Member
I admit that I had not been riding redman lately: some new loves had taken top billing- the zunow and the r753 look. and I get in a rut and just ride what is set up to go for the most part. but now that I am facing a terrible dilema:
I bought a look kg 96, and I need to sell 2 bikes as part of the bargain with myself. so I took redman out as I needed to see where all the bikes stood. There is no way I can sell that bike. sure its a basic 1988 expert with lots of chips in the paint- there are a thousand like it- but man is it a nice ride. light, quick, responsive- and just feels fast.
I bought a look kg 96, and I need to sell 2 bikes as part of the bargain with myself. so I took redman out as I needed to see where all the bikes stood. There is no way I can sell that bike. sure its a basic 1988 expert with lots of chips in the paint- there are a thousand like it- but man is it a nice ride. light, quick, responsive- and just feels fast.