Acetone to the Rescue!
01-12-12 | 08:40 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Acetone to the Rescue!
NOTE: I am NOT recommending you use acetone to remove rattlecan paint. Your experience may differ from mine. I was really surprised the decals survived this experiment. If you try it, be sure to test a small out of the way area first!!
OK, so I picked up this neglected Klein Aeolus on my recent vacation (what's a vacation without bringing back bike stuff?)... One big defect is the PO's brother had rattlecanned a portion of the frame, right over the decals. Really looked like crap. So I adjusted my offer accordingly, and picked up the project.
Did a little research, some have recommended acetone (nail polish remover), lacquer thinner, and Goof Off. So I picked up some polish remover, 97 cents at Wally World.
It took all of two minutes tops. Some acetone on a rag, wipe it, and off came the paint. OK, in a few areas, I had to rub a little, but it came off easily. And the decals remained in tact!
Bike is still a bit of a mess. Original fork is gone, its a mix of pretty good, but not original components, in so so shape. Fortunately, I have some replacement components in hand (no fork of course), so this project should progress quickly.
That yellow paint on the rear drop out took more time than everything else combined.
OK, so I picked up this neglected Klein Aeolus on my recent vacation (what's a vacation without bringing back bike stuff?)... One big defect is the PO's brother had rattlecanned a portion of the frame, right over the decals. Really looked like crap. So I adjusted my offer accordingly, and picked up the project.
Did a little research, some have recommended acetone (nail polish remover), lacquer thinner, and Goof Off. So I picked up some polish remover, 97 cents at Wally World.
It took all of two minutes tops. Some acetone on a rag, wipe it, and off came the paint. OK, in a few areas, I had to rub a little, but it came off easily. And the decals remained in tact!
Bike is still a bit of a mess. Original fork is gone, its a mix of pretty good, but not original components, in so so shape. Fortunately, I have some replacement components in hand (no fork of course), so this project should progress quickly.
That yellow paint on the rear drop out took more time than everything else combined.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-12-12 at 09:15 PM.
01-12-12 | 08:43 PM
#2
weapons-grade bolognium
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6,610
Likes: 3,309
From: Across the street from Chicago
Bikes: Battaglin Cromor, Ciocc Designer 84, Schwinn Superior 1981
Nice work!!!!
What's with the yellow paint on the dropout? I smell a "tri-geek" tweak for super-fast wheel changes.
What's with the yellow paint on the dropout? I smell a "tri-geek" tweak for super-fast wheel changes.
01-12-12 | 08:47 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Typical hipster cosmetics. He painted the QR levers yellow as well. Told me the paint was scratched, so on went the yellow! It was a pain getting it off the QR, I just did the lever side, as the nut side is not very noticeable.
He also had the front barcon set on friction. I mentioned they could be put into index mode. "Really?" They are rashed up pretty good, so I will pull a spare set out of the bin (once I find it.)
He also had the front barcon set on friction. I mentioned they could be put into index mode. "Really?" They are rashed up pretty good, so I will pull a spare set out of the bin (once I find it.)
01-12-12 | 08:55 PM
#4
Bianchi Goddess
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,907
Likes: 4,153
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
what quality control 
can you believe they let this leave the factory with the dropouts in backwards??
can you believe they let this leave the factory with the dropouts in backwards??
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
01-12-12 | 09:17 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
And toss the original matching fork********** I hated to see that fork gone. To be fair to the PO, I think an owner way before him tossed the fork.
This is my first Klein. I really knew nothing about the brand. But in researching this bike a tad, they really had some terrific paint combinations. I'll be looking for more of them.
This is my first Klein. I really knew nothing about the brand. But in researching this bike a tad, they really had some terrific paint combinations. I'll be looking for more of them.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-12-12 at 09:35 PM.
01-12-12 | 09:34 PM
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 5
01-12-12 | 09:38 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Those dropouts are the norm for Klein. They called it their "exclusive horizontal rear dropout design".
Also, they had an unusual (at least to me) top tube, its in the shape of an elipse. DT is oversized, but round.
https://www.oldklein.com/index.htm
Also, they had an unusual (at least to me) top tube, its in the shape of an elipse. DT is oversized, but round.
https://www.oldklein.com/index.htm
Last edited by wrk101; 01-12-12 at 09:42 PM.
01-12-12 | 10:19 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 4
From: Montereyish
Just in the nick of time Work, I’ll be trying the nail polish removal technique on the Miyata 912 frame I just picked up that some idiot, in a drug induced spasm of artistic license apparently, rattlecanned black down one side of. I have a feeling I won’t have as much success as you saving the decals however.
01-12-12 | 10:33 PM
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 3
From: Toronto
Bikes: Pinarello Veneto, Pinarello Montello, Bianchi Celeste
i've used acetone to do the same thing on another bike i have in the works.
if you put it on a rag first then you just hold it on the section for a few seconds then wipe it the paint usually comes off. acetone is great for stubborn stuff, you just gotta be careful with it because it can take off paint.
if you put it on a rag first then you just hold it on the section for a few seconds then wipe it the paint usually comes off. acetone is great for stubborn stuff, you just gotta be careful with it because it can take off paint.
01-12-12 | 11:09 PM
#11
spookeaymarine.info
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 1
From: Me, I'm in Central Alabama C.S.A. But my husband is under the bed. He's sure there is a black helicopter orbiting our house.
Bikes: Schwin,Ross,Cannondale.
I have been saying this for a while now and tend to get "WTH" looks.
Acetone will remove unhardened paints and not quickly affect hardened ones.
Glad to see you got it cleaned up. A buffer and some very low cut polishing compound will make it look like new. Congratulations.
Acetone will remove unhardened paints and not quickly affect hardened ones.
Glad to see you got it cleaned up. A buffer and some very low cut polishing compound will make it look like new. Congratulations.
01-13-12 | 08:20 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
I have been saying this for a while now and tend to get "WTH" looks.
Acetone will remove unhardened paints and not quickly affect hardened ones.
Glad to see you got it cleaned up. A buffer and some very low cut polishing compound will make it look like new. Congratulations.
Acetone will remove unhardened paints and not quickly affect hardened ones.
Glad to see you got it cleaned up. A buffer and some very low cut polishing compound will make it look like new. Congratulations.
Yes, polishing compound comes next.
Grand Bois: Good point on the paint stripper. I'll try some on the front QR.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-13-12 at 10:55 AM.
01-13-12 | 08:57 AM
#14
You could have used paint stripper on the qr. It will have no effect on the chrome.
01-13-12 | 05:18 PM
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 701
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From: Lancaster,CA the desert north of Los Angeles
Bikes: 84' Ciocc, 79' Shogun 1000, 76' KHS Gran Sport, 96' Schwinn Super Sport,
Nice score, now you need to sign up for a tri. ha ha ha. Really nice job on the paint save.
01-22-12 | 01:16 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Thrifty Bill
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Thought I would add a wrap up picture to this thread. I need to tilt the saddle up a tad.
01-22-12 | 07:46 PM
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: New Jersey
Bikes: 2000 GT I-Drive Team MTB, 2005 Specialized Sirrus, 1973 Schwinn World Voyager (frame only), 1975 Peugeot Mixte, 1980 Raleigh Sport, 1980(?) Peugeot, Giant ATX MTB, 2006 GT I-Drive MTB Frame, 2005 Jamis Dakar XLT MTB
Fantastic Job! I absolutely love all of the DIY tips that appear in CV posts. I like the way people are so willing to share information.
01-22-12 | 07:56 PM
#18
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 390
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
I cant believe someone painted over that.
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01-22-12 | 08:04 PM
#19
What??? Only 2 wheels?
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13,498
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From: Boston-ish, MA
Bikes: 72 Peugeot UO-8, 82 Peugeot TH8, 87 Bianchi Brava, 76? Masi Grand Criterium, 74 Motobecane Champion Team, 86 & 77 Gazelle champion mondial, 81? Grandis, 82? Tommasini, 83 Peugeot PF10
Got a loaded spray can, gotta' spray somethin'.
Somebody sprayed this.
Somebody sprayed this.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Last edited by jimmuller; 01-22-12 at 08:19 PM. Reason: A better picture of the same thing
01-22-12 | 08:08 PM
#20
FBoD Member at Large
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,094
Likes: 8
From: Woodbury, MN
MicroDrops
Consider the conventional rear dropout. A rather thin piece
of metal goes from in front of the wheel axle, wraps around the
axle, drops down, and then proceeds down to become the rear
derailleur hanger. If you follow a rough centerline of the material,
total distance from the chainstay to the derailleur mounting bolt
is about 85mm. On a Klein its about 45mm. By shortening the
hanger, dramatic increases in hanger strength and stiffness are
accomplished, which increases shifting accuracy. Not only that,
but the dropout itself is much stronger.
Klein teams new to the design, and especially the team
mechanics, have all complained about wheel changing with the
Micro-Drops. For example, we had a difficult time getting the
ONCE team to accept them initially. But after a season of use,
no team has ever wanted conventional dropouts. Why? Because
once you learn how to use MicroDrops, wheel installation is
actually faster and more accurate. The Re-Entry ramps really do
work to line up the axle and QR for quick engagement.
With MicroDrops it is a straight-in shot from the rear, and
there is no resulting tire interference with chainstays as in forward
entry dropouts. This means Klein bikes can have a lighter,
tighter, more rigid chainstay assembly.
We overheard one mechanic say he thought MicroDrops
were dangerous because the wheel would fall out if the QR was
not adequately tightened. As a performance feature, this rear
entry style of dropout allows the axle of the rear wheel to rest
snugly against the backbone of the drop, making it absolutely
impossible for the rear wheel to slip forward when the rider
jumps on the pedals. Even if you bounce the bike on its rear wheel
with the QR undone, the rear wheel stays in MicroDrops.
With standard dropouts, all procedures must be done simultaneously.
With Microdrops, each step is completely isolated, giving the
mechanic greater control of the process for increased speed.
To remove a rear wheel, first shift to the smallest cog. Open the
brakes and undo the wheel QR.
Pull the rear wheel out of the dropouts about 2 inches (Fig. 12),
wrap a single finger around the chain immediately in front of
the top of the cog (Fig. 13), and lift the chain off the cog.
The chain lift is more positive and reliable than having the
derailleur hold the chain. With traditional dropouts, sometimes
the chain comes off of the jockey pulleys and a snarl is created.
To install the wheel, grasp the chain with your finger, and
place it on the small cog. Open the brakes further if necessary
and guide the rear wheel through the pads. In most cases the
Re-Entry ramps of the MicroDrops will allow the chain tension
alone to pull the rear wheel into the drops and center it. Tighten
the wheel QR, close the brake QR, and you’re off.
Once you practice with the MicroDrops you will appreciate
Gary Klein’s clever approach; stronger and lighter dropouts, more
accurate shifting, a stronger and lighter frame with both
increased rigidity and better tire clearance, and faster, easier
wheel installation and removal. All in a single design detail.
Consider the conventional rear dropout. A rather thin piece
of metal goes from in front of the wheel axle, wraps around the
axle, drops down, and then proceeds down to become the rear
derailleur hanger. If you follow a rough centerline of the material,
total distance from the chainstay to the derailleur mounting bolt
is about 85mm. On a Klein its about 45mm. By shortening the
hanger, dramatic increases in hanger strength and stiffness are
accomplished, which increases shifting accuracy. Not only that,
but the dropout itself is much stronger.
Klein teams new to the design, and especially the team
mechanics, have all complained about wheel changing with the
Micro-Drops. For example, we had a difficult time getting the
ONCE team to accept them initially. But after a season of use,
no team has ever wanted conventional dropouts. Why? Because
once you learn how to use MicroDrops, wheel installation is
actually faster and more accurate. The Re-Entry ramps really do
work to line up the axle and QR for quick engagement.
With MicroDrops it is a straight-in shot from the rear, and
there is no resulting tire interference with chainstays as in forward
entry dropouts. This means Klein bikes can have a lighter,
tighter, more rigid chainstay assembly.
We overheard one mechanic say he thought MicroDrops
were dangerous because the wheel would fall out if the QR was
not adequately tightened. As a performance feature, this rear
entry style of dropout allows the axle of the rear wheel to rest
snugly against the backbone of the drop, making it absolutely
impossible for the rear wheel to slip forward when the rider
jumps on the pedals. Even if you bounce the bike on its rear wheel
with the QR undone, the rear wheel stays in MicroDrops.
With standard dropouts, all procedures must be done simultaneously.
With Microdrops, each step is completely isolated, giving the
mechanic greater control of the process for increased speed.
To remove a rear wheel, first shift to the smallest cog. Open the
brakes and undo the wheel QR.
Pull the rear wheel out of the dropouts about 2 inches (Fig. 12),
wrap a single finger around the chain immediately in front of
the top of the cog (Fig. 13), and lift the chain off the cog.
The chain lift is more positive and reliable than having the
derailleur hold the chain. With traditional dropouts, sometimes
the chain comes off of the jockey pulleys and a snarl is created.
To install the wheel, grasp the chain with your finger, and
place it on the small cog. Open the brakes further if necessary
and guide the rear wheel through the pads. In most cases the
Re-Entry ramps of the MicroDrops will allow the chain tension
alone to pull the rear wheel into the drops and center it. Tighten
the wheel QR, close the brake QR, and you’re off.
Once you practice with the MicroDrops you will appreciate
Gary Klein’s clever approach; stronger and lighter dropouts, more
accurate shifting, a stronger and lighter frame with both
increased rigidity and better tire clearance, and faster, easier
wheel installation and removal. All in a single design detail.
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