Unique Cinelli Grammo Cap
09-25-15 | 02:10 PM
#26
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 322
Likes: 12
From: Ireland
It was fairly straight forward. I'll try to find the links and add them.
I wanted to avoid electrolytic methods and keep it simple. I used the saline sulfate method which if I remember correctly amounts to:
- Make an image of your logo/shape in reverse
- Print it on to glossy photo paper in a laser printer
- Place the image face down on to the alu and iron it on with a clothes iron so you transfer the toner on to the piece. This acts as the resist.
- Mask off any other areas with tape to also resist the etch
- Make up a solution of copper sulfate and sodium chloride in water as etching medium
- Place the piece in the solution and allow to react. This is a balance. The longer you leave it the deeper the etch but also the higher the risk of getting an unclean etch (bad edges).
- Cut out piece. I used a jewellers saw which is a bit slow but gives a fairly accurate cut.
Links:
1. Copper sulfate & Sodium chloride Prep
https://www.nontoxicprint.com/etchzincsteelaluminum.htm
2.
These guys used some stronger chemicals to make some really cool headbadges which is what inspired me.
Making My Own Head Badges | Rat Rod Bikes
3. The headbadge guys used Press-n-Peel transfer film as shown here. I managed OK with just the ink toner resist.
https://www.techniks.com/how_to.htm
I wanted to avoid electrolytic methods and keep it simple. I used the saline sulfate method which if I remember correctly amounts to:
- Make an image of your logo/shape in reverse
- Print it on to glossy photo paper in a laser printer
- Place the image face down on to the alu and iron it on with a clothes iron so you transfer the toner on to the piece. This acts as the resist.
- Mask off any other areas with tape to also resist the etch
- Make up a solution of copper sulfate and sodium chloride in water as etching medium
- Place the piece in the solution and allow to react. This is a balance. The longer you leave it the deeper the etch but also the higher the risk of getting an unclean etch (bad edges).
- Cut out piece. I used a jewellers saw which is a bit slow but gives a fairly accurate cut.
Links:
1. Copper sulfate & Sodium chloride Prep
https://www.nontoxicprint.com/etchzincsteelaluminum.htm
2.
These guys used some stronger chemicals to make some really cool headbadges which is what inspired me.
Making My Own Head Badges | Rat Rod Bikes
3. The headbadge guys used Press-n-Peel transfer film as shown here. I managed OK with just the ink toner resist.
https://www.techniks.com/how_to.htm
Last edited by old_dreams; 09-25-15 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Links added
