67tony 

Opague green, picked it up for cheap.
The serial # is: MG024495, with the second figure being pretty faint.

The 1972 catalog sucks, with tons of pages on accessories and safety, and no specifications page. I wonder what it weighs, and whether it's one of the Chicago "fillet-brazed" models. It doesn't look like it, but I've yet to examine it closely.

There's some pitting on the rims, and a few other places...anybody have the best method of tackling that? Last time I used WD40 and steel wool, which worked fairly well.

Rabid Koala

If it is a Super Sport, it is fillet brazed. They are hard to distinguish from the electro forged gaspipe models, one reason why people could not be convinced to spend the extra money for them.

flash2070

Congratulations on your nice bike. The early 70's SSS were fillet braze! I had the his and hers from 71 brown color, but as of a week ago they have a new owner. I'm not really experienced with restorations, but definitely you will get your questions answered here. Enjoy your new bike!

Flash

pastorbobnlnh 

Super Sports are great for exact restorations or cool modifications. The reason for this is that they are somewhat plentiful and often times not well cared for. Can't wait to see pictures.

Try to use bronze wool. It is softer on the metal finishes.

67tony 

Cool. Here is a pretty informative link regarding the "fillet-brazed" Schwinns:
https://sheldonbrown.com/schwinn-braze.html

The bike is heavy, apparently, but the frame is fairly indestructible. I'll know more when I tear into it, but I'm sure some would say to replace the "Schwinn Approved" components (heavy!) with lighter-weight stuff. The Ashtabula crankset, in particular, doesn't get much love.

I'm pretty new at this, but I'm thinking for a flat-land location I may convert it to a 5-speed, with a single front sprocket. How would I know what crank and ring would work and fit for this? What about a rear derailleur? I'd want lightweight, but reasonably-priced, components.

Is there a good site for determining what components would interchange with this frame? Are any of the ebay sellers more reputable than others?

Sorry for the numerous general guestions, but with retirement right around the corner I may have some extra time on my hands to fuss around with this stuff.

Thanks for any help you can give this old noobie!

Chrome Molly

The super sport's stock setup is rather heavy. You can get a bmx bottom bracket converter kit for it and use a more modern three piece crank. That alone will drop quite a bit of weight from the bike. The next place to look for modernizing it (if that's your goal) would be the wheels. I put mine together mainly with parts I had around the shop and took it from 37 lbs to 25 lbs. There are a people few around here who have restored them. It winds up being an interesting mix of stock schwinn parts and more modern items. In the end, a really nice riding bike that gets LOTS of attention due to the retro appeal.

Chrome Molly

https://www.rememberdelaware.com/p-78...4841_a_7c78445

Using a bottom bracket converter such as the one linked will allow you to use a normal three piece crank and bottom bracket setup. Using one of these, you'd then just need the bottom bracket that suits the crank you want to use (I'd suggest a three piece crankset, as the exact width of the bottom bracket with the adapter is a bit variable). The converter is a little finicky to put in, I needed to carefully align it, then use a vise.

67tony 

LOL, pastorbob, I just read your post where you ranked three of your bikes:

FIRST: '83 Paramount (early Waterford) which I upgraded with Shimano 7 speed brifters & FD, Campy Centaur calipers & RD, Campy 9 speed triple crankset. The bike is light and very responsive.

SECOND: '72 Super Sport, i.e. "Sporty" which as you can see, has been significantly modified. It is probably about 5 lbs heavier then the '83. It turns exceptionally fast and is rock solid at 45+ mph on descents.

THIRD: '66 P-13 Paramount. To be fair, I barely rode this bike after Sporty hit the road. It needs a full tune up over the winter. Also, as my riding and bike knowledge has become refined, I've come to realize it is about 2-3 cm too big for me.

I hate to be a pest, but could you share exactly what you did for the "significant modifications" on your '72 Super Sport? I may modify this bike, and I'm thinking, "Why re-invent the wheel?". Not to mention, of course, that I would not even know how to start the re-invention!

Thanks!

67tony 

Great posts, Chrome Molly...thanks for the advice!

Scooper

Here are the 1971 and 1973 specs pages (sorry, I don't have the '72).

1971:



1973:

John E

Since you already have alloy rims, I concur that the crankset and pedals are the logical upgrade target. Replacing the TwinStiks with barcons would be another step up, as would replacing the Huret derailleur w/ a SunTour.

Rabid Koala

Depending on how far you are willing to go, I'd definitely recommend changing the stock aluminum rims with some later hook bead type rims that will allow you to run a much higher pressure tire.

Just wait until you see pictures of Pastor Bob's Sporty......you'll be very surprised.

pastorbobnlnh 

There are several threads on "Sporty" so they are not worth repeating. A brief description is on my website with several pictures. I will update it soon with a new slide show.

Over the winter I added a yellow Cannondale rear bag, found a taller and longer stem, and wider handle bars. This meant new Elkhide bar covers. I like this picture from last Fall just after I found the front bag.

rhenning

With the MG******* serial number it is probably a 1973 bike as the frame was made in December 1972. At that point it still had to be painted and made into a bike. I think Scooper gave you the right info on a 1973 bike. Roger

kc0yef 

I have a 73 too small for me but all original including the brooks saddle

67tony 

Roger that, Roger! I had figured as much, but it's good to have it verified.

Pics have been added to the first post in this thread. Some things tell me it's fillet-brazed, and other things make me wonder...

I'm waffling on what to do with this bike. It's in pretty rough shape, making me lean towards a "Sporty" type modification...but with a slightly lower level of elaborationsince I barely even know what I'm doing, components-wise. I sure do love that Orange Elk Hide bar tape on Sporty, though!


So, specific help with any of these would be awesome, keeping in mind I'd like to keep costs in the "reasonable" range. (I'll soon be on a fixed income!)

It may be used in the Virginia Beach/Norfolk area, which is pretty flat, so I'm thinking a crank upgrade would be a good start, with a single front ring. Maybe a 5 or 6 speed freewheel for the rear?

Would a single shift lever on the end of the handlebars be a good idea?

Any suggestions for the rear derailleur?

The rims are currently alloy, but pitted pretty bad. What would I look for to replace them? I'd love a high pressure rim, as suggested above.

If I swap out the rims, should I do the hubs and spokes, too?

The brakes and handlebars look salvageable, but are they worth keeping?

The Brooks B-15 saddle is long gone (dammit!) so what would be a decent lightweight replacement be...preferably leather?

Is it feasible to shave the weight of this bike from 34 lbs. down to 28-30 lbs. with the above mods? Can any of the suggested components be found on ebay? Thanks a ton for the veteran help, this board so far is awesome!

rhenning

Be carefull with SSs as I started with one and now have a 1966, 1968, 1969, 1971 and 3 1973s. I also have one of its brothers a Sports Tourer. Prices ranged from $10 for a 1973 frame set to $125 for a very nice 1966 Coppertone. Roger

Rabid Koala

It is definitely fillet brazed. The one photo shows the Chrome Molybdenum decal, gaspipe models did not have that. The one wheel I could see in the pictures does not look original to the bike, it appears to be a steel rim with dimples on the brake surface, something you would be more likely to see on a Peugeot or Gitane. If they are steel I would definitely replace them, but look for an inexpensive set rather than spending the money for new rims and spokes.

67tony 

Roger that, Roger! I had figured as much, but it's good to have it verified.

Pics have been added to the first post in this thread. Some things tell me it's fillet-brazed, and other things make me wonder. Can anybody verify from the pics that it is, indeed, a fillet-brazed frame?

I'm waffling on what to do with this bike. It's in pretty rough shape, making me lean towards a "Sporty" type modification...but with a slightly lower level of elaboration since I barely even know what I'm doing, components-wise. I sure do love that Orange Elk Hide bar tape on Sporty, though!


So, specific help with any of these would be awesome, keeping in mind I'd like to keep costs in the "reasonable" range. (I'll soon be on a fixed income!)

It may be used in the Virginia Beach/Norfolk area, which is pretty flat, so I'm thinking a crank upgrade (with the bmx adapter named above) would be a good start, with a single ring.

Would a single shift lever on the end of the handlebars be a good idea?

Any suggestions for the rear derailleur?

The rims are currently alloy, but pitted pretty bad. What would I look for to replace them? I'd love a high pressure rim, as suggested above.

If I swap out the rims, should I do the hubs and spokes, too?

The brakes and handlebars look salvageable, but are they worth keeping?

The Brooks B-15 saddle is long gone (dammit!) so what would be a decent lightweight replacement be...preferably leather?

How about a cheap (but light!) seat post and handlebar stem?
After all, how important are these...right?

Is it feasible to shave the weight of this bike from 34 lbs. down to 28-30 lbs. with the above mods? Can any of the suggested components be found on ebay?

I know I'm asking for a lot of help, but I really am novice...although capable. If I have a parts list I can start scouting out components in advance of the summer project.

Thanks a ton for the veteran help, this board so far is awesome!

Chrome Molly

Your idea of a crank upgrade with a single ring is a fine idea. Look into something like a 48 tooth front chainring and you should have good choices in rear freewheels to choose from for your terrain. A single bar end shifter on the right side would work just great. The brakes are fine, and the handlebars are actually quite nice and comfortable, if a bit narrow (I think). The stem is a size that matches the internal size of the fork, so unless you are changing the fork (which would require the bearing race be moved to the new fork), the stock stem and fork are just fine. I swapped mine out for an aluminum fork, and that saved about one pound over the stock one (not a real big savings, but in the end it all added up). Unless you want some futzing around, I'd stick with the stock fork, stem, and bars. The seat post can be replaced with an aluminum post, and could save some weight (I think it's an odd diameter though, 26.8mm). A smaller 30mm aluminum seat post clamp would also save some weight too.
By swap out the rims, I think people generally infer a whole new wheelset. The rims themselves on the SS are aluminum. The biggest downside of the stock rims is that they are not "hooked" to secure the tire, so that means you usually run slightly wider tires at lower pressures (up to maybe 80 lbs max). Without the hook, you can overinflate the tires and they will literally blow off the rims. With the hook, the tube seats the tire bead into the hook trough, so the pressure can be higher, thus the tires a little narrower (and lighter). Modern wheels are lighter than the stock SS wheels, even with the stock wheels having aluminum rims. However, if you want to switch from 27 inch wheels to 700c's (the modern standard), then your brakes may not reach the wheels properly. If you can find a set of 27 inch rims to replace them with (possibly from a slightly more modern donor bike), then they would probably achieve the weight savings without the hassle of a different sized wheel. That all said, the stock wheels are fine for most circumstances except more race like endeavors. You might consider just using a lighter more modern 7 speed free wheel, losing the "pie plate" in the process (that would save some weight right there, and improve the shifting if you used a shimano 7 speed hyperglide freewheel). That would require a new 8 speed chain (not sure if that works with the stock rear derailleur)

I'd start with the crank, seatpost, and seatpost clamp, then see if you're OK with the ride from the stock wheels/tires. I think those things alone might get you to just over 30 lbs. As far as seats go, if you want original style leather, then a brooks B17 would probably be the ticket (in a color of your choice). The bike will never be racer light, but the nice thing about it, is that most items you upgrade will result in a weight savings. It is the perfect bike to improve, because you don't need the lightest and more expensive items to get a significant improvement. To dip your toe in the water, maybe just rebuild/regrease all the parts as they are, then you'll get a sense of the work involved in each "improvement". You can ride it as is, make minor improvements, or basically just use the frame and headset for a whole new bike like I did. Starting slow is probably the best advice to avoid frustration with changing too many things at once.

kc0yef 

here is a picture of my rusty beast I bought it for the brooks and the high flange hubs and the weinman rims

RT Metro

700c conversion to get a good selection of tires although the 27 inch pasela tg is a good tire too. The Weinmann centerpulls with modern Tektro brake levers and modern caliper pads on aluminum rims stop great. I've got mine modernized with 130mm rear hub, 700c wheelset and 3 piece crank and its my favorite rider.

RT Metro

700x37 continental contacts or 700x35 pasela tg fit with fenders but any bigger the tire hits the chainstays. Stock brakes handle the needed drop adjustment with several mm to spare. The kickstands is heavy but unless you are racing its worth keeping. The handlebar is comfortable with modern tape.

dddd

Pastor Bob and Chrome Molly, your bikes reflect a mighty effort, very well done!

I have a couple of these in the 24" size, one's yellow, one's Campus Green.

I continue to be amazed just how heavy they are, so haven't begun to take weight reduction efforts beyond pie-plate removal, smaller 6-speed freewheels and lighter tires and tubes.
I solved the tire-retention issue on the Weinmann rims with one wrap of 22mm Velox tape after trying 5 or 6 different tires that wouldn't tolerate even 70psi reliably. I found the tape very difficult to lay flat in the rim cavity, but it did raise the allowable pressure a solid 20psi by taking up slack in the bead that was allowing the bead to climp up and over the rim.

I don't like the long cage Allvit derailer, but it has nothing to do with the cage or even of it being an Allvit!!
The problem is the Bracket they supplied with it, which positions the derailer vertically, to allow the 32t cog.
This ruins the shifting on the smaller cogs, but I was able to file the bracket to allow the derailer to swing foreward just like the standard Allvit.

I left the crank and sidestand alone and just focused on improving the action of the derailer, shifter and cable, to go with the 9-speed chain and 6-sp Uniglide freewheel. Lastly, I added a hard-to-find 110mm stem with the needed .833 quill diameter and put an alloy post with a WTB Lazer saddle on. The 26.8mm seatpost size is/was pretty common.

mkeller234

I'd keep the handlebar and stem on your bike. The stems that fit Schwinn frames are an odd size, so replacing them can be difficult. The parts that you have are good quality, replacing them wouldn't accomplish much.

I'd think that 28-30lbs is possible. My Superior weighs around 28lbs, which is basically the same frame as your Super Sport. While the frames are the same, the components on my bike are almost entirely aluminum instead of chromed steel.


DSC_0174 by mkeller234, on Flickr