Suggestions on Upgrading Ironman Groupset?
#1
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From: SGV, SoCal
Bikes: Centurion Fixed Gear, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert
Suggestions on Upgrading Ironman Groupset?
I currently have a Centurion Ironman which (still) needs a tune up. The wheels aren't true. I was thinking the cables must be replaced because of the color of the cable (oxidized?) and some fraying at the ends. Then, that got me thinking of the chain wear. I don't have a chain tool, but I was wondering if I would need a new chain (not sure on what kind, but I'm aware that there are plenty of types). I figure since if I do need to replace those two, I might as well replace the rear threaded freewheel and possibly my chainset and rear derailleur. I pretty much might as well upgrade my whole groupset. Any suggestions? I don't have a brick load of change laying around, but if the upgrade is worth it, I'm sure I can sacrifice some lunches and evenings.
Off topic, but here's what's happening so far regarding my Ironman. My Shimano PD-1050 pedals had old plastic toe clips, and both of them cracked today. I'm lucky to have MKS-GR9's on my fixed gear. I swapped them out. I'll be receiving Shimano PD-m540's as a birthday gift. I received a pair of Pearl Izumi cycling shoes that are barely used (and happen to fit me) from my cousin J, and will be receiving some cycling clothes for my birthday. I'm just really excited to work on my first real road bike.
Off topic, but here's what's happening so far regarding my Ironman. My Shimano PD-1050 pedals had old plastic toe clips, and both of them cracked today. I'm lucky to have MKS-GR9's on my fixed gear. I swapped them out. I'll be receiving Shimano PD-m540's as a birthday gift. I received a pair of Pearl Izumi cycling shoes that are barely used (and happen to fit me) from my cousin J, and will be receiving some cycling clothes for my birthday. I'm just really excited to work on my first real road bike.

Last edited by JDMKidBill; 04-09-12 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Pics
#3
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Measure the chain and see if it is stretched. Use a tape and from one pin to another should be 12". If it isn't stretched too much the FW should be fine. I would maybe replace the brake pads they are likely to be worn and dried out.
Unless something is broken I see no reason to start upgrading.
Unless something is broken I see no reason to start upgrading.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 169
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From: SGV, SoCal
Bikes: Centurion Fixed Gear, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 169
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From: SGV, SoCal
Bikes: Centurion Fixed Gear, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert
Measure the chain and see if it is stretched. Use a tape and from one pin to another should be 12". If it isn't stretched too much the FW should be fine. I would maybe replace the brake pads they are likely to be worn and dried out.
Unless something is broken I see no reason to start upgrading.
Unless something is broken I see no reason to start upgrading.
#6
On my Ironman, I've got mostly stock parts, but switched out the wheelset for one with a 9-speed cassette (and naturally a new chain), just switched to Suntour Barcons, plus new tires, saddle and bar tape. It all works great together. Replacing some parts doesn't necessarily mean you have to replace everything else, especially if you go with friction shifting.
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 169
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From: SGV, SoCal
Bikes: Centurion Fixed Gear, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert
On my Ironman, I've got mostly stock parts, but switched out the wheelset for one with a 9-speed cassette (and naturally a new chain), just switched to Suntour Barcons, plus new tires, saddle and bar tape. It all works great together. Replacing some parts doesn't necessarily mean you have to replace everything else, especially if you go with friction shifting.
On another note, my gear and brake cables are oxidized and seem old and slightly frayed at the ends, but are operational. When would I really need to replace them?
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RandolphCarter
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04-22-14 05:03 AM





