Hi guys, I recently bought this bike, https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw4...X2pmbEx5ZjFsdw a 1986 fuji palisade, for 150 dollars. I have had many people say that this bike is worth no more that 25 or 50 dollars. I feel extremely ripped off and want some more opinions. I have also put 100 dollars into it in new brake levers, bar tape, tires, cables and grease. Could i have done better buying new? should i resell it on craigslist? What should i get instead?

You have a rideable road bike for which you paid $250. Assuming that it fits you correctly, I'd say just enjoy it and ride it for this summer and fall. Ride a lot. Put many miles on it in all types of conditions.

Looking back on it, you'll feel that your money was well invested.

While I'm a fan of older Fuji bikes, I've found that many models (across their hierarchy) are good to ride and provide plenty of enjoyment.

Relax and ride.

PG

Hi Shaun I agree I think you did fine. For what you apid for that and have invested in it I don't you gould get nearly as nice a new bike. You might get one with fancy index but it will not have a nice a fraame nor will the level of the components be as nice.



Do you have current pics showing what you have done so far? I think as long as you have the bike in ridable condition you just need to ride it and get a good feal for it. I don't think you should be too worried about switching to downtube shifters right away.

You did not get ripped off. I would call that full retail, and as mentioned a good reliable bike for $250 is not a bad deal.

Thanks for the reassurance. I was a little worried about it. I just need some help with the routing of the cables at the back end of the derailleurs. As you see in the picture, the loop near the rear derailleur is very tiny(look in picture). This contradicts what park tools tutorial is telling me. However the cable is not long enough to make the loop any bigger. Secondly i cannot figure out where the housing and cable are supposed to go to the front derailleur. It is a short length of housing near the BB, but i cant figure out how to run it without interfering with the cranks or the wheel spokes.

CL is tough sometimes b/c there really ARE amazing deals out there-- but just because you didn't get a bargain doesn't mean that you wasted your money. I recently paid "too much" for a bike that sometimes comes up for less, but it was just what I wanted, in mint condition, a perfect fit, and will see some good use--- that makes it a bargain.

Recommend posting clear photos and clear questions in the bicycle mechanics forum for specific routing advice-- I've gotten very detailed help in that subforum.

https://www.kevinluper.com/?p=158

My daily rider/ bar bike is a Panasonic that is butted hi-ten steel, similar to yours. I love it.

Is that how youre riding it? Looks like its too big

It is a 54 cm bike, why does everyone think its so big lol. so i got all the cables routed as they were in the picture, I am now trying to adjust the derailers. I have the front one fine, the rear one however requires the force of superman to shift the bike. Btw these are friction stem shifters.

Shaun, don't believe what those people say about the price. You have a great road bike there. I have two Fujis, and I still want more. :-) "Ripped off" to me sounds lik a drug deal gone horribly wrong! Lol. In my personal opinion your vintage steel bike is better looking, has more character, and possibly last longer than a lot of those new Taiwanese overpriced plastic. You did great! As you become more involved with cycling and bikes, you'll be able to make decisions in which you will feel comfortable with your buys or sells. Don't lose any sleep over it. Just look at that bike, its lovely!

Flash

Nice looking Palisade.


I used to own its twin. Good comfy bicycle.

Looks ok to me. Glad you are still sticking with it.

I think you did very well! You probably paid what it was worth, and you should be satisfied with that knowledge. Naysayers that don't have an appreciation for vintage bicycles always underestimate their value. I work part-time in a bike shop, and none of my coworkers have an appreciation for vintage bike. When I bring one of my vintage bikes into the shop, they are quick to harass me. However, after I flip that bike and make a healthy margin, they change their tune. If you are going to ride vintage bikes, you are going to have to develop thicker skin. Take pride in your bike and ride it proudly. Let your bike skills do the talking! You have a very good bike indeed!

I take every opportunity I get to show off my bikes, and you should too!

I have a 1987 Fuji Palisade frame right now and some parts left over from an older Fuji. Definitely nothing wrong with it. I probably have $300 into the bike. Definitely worth it because it's very reliable transportation. Look like your Fuji is in pretty good shape. The wheels look pretty clean. I'd say $150 was an exceptional deal.



Great bike for Sunday picnics or riding to work.

If i can sell the bike for 300 on craigslis, do you think i would be better off doing that. And then buy a brand new bike for aroun 300 to 400? I have some one inquiring about the bike, so it is possible i can get that much for it.

This thread had been teetering on asking the question "What's It Worth." Your most recent post crossed over the line. You need to ask this question in "What's It Worth."

However, I will partially answer the question. Most vintage bikes maintain or increase in value. New bikes potentially depreciate in value by half once you buy them. Vintage bikes are a better investment in my opinion.

Ok if i do sell the bike, Can i get a newer better quality bike with sti shifting for around 400? Is this possible?

Sure, but be patient, and act fast when opportunity turns the corner! Research!

Let's get this straight - you expect to sell the bike on Craigslist for $300 why? Because someone else said he has $300 into his bike? Because you have that much into it? It will sell for what a willing buyer will pay, not what you think it's worth. Then you want to get an STI equipped bike, probably 10 or more years newer as well, for only $100 more. That bike is not worth $300, period, and if you get someone to pay that for it after you have yourself complained that things do not work all that well then you are not being honest or ethical.

I think shaun has been dealing with ethical in this purchase the whole time. Someone he trusted led him into it. I'd really like to see him turn this into a bike he's designed to fit his needs. Really, he had a chance to pick up a nice Centurion for a bit more, but it looked like it was a finished bike. Don't let him bail ...

Hi everyone, So since I've been away, I have fixed the derailer issue, Just a little grease in the cables... I have installed new tires and put on bar tape. I actually got to ride the bike today!. I road 4.5 miles around neighborhood roads. Man was that a little difficult. Being a little overweight, I had a little bit of a hard time making it that far, and when i got home, I just collapsed. However, overall the bike road pretty well, not as smooth as i thought it would be though. Maybe that's an issue with the drivetrain, I don't know. Also I've noticed that my back and neck hurt a little bit after the ride. Any thoughts are welcome! Also, I have not trued the wheels yet.

Keep at it. Then someday you'll be riding 45 miles around the county roads, get home and still have alot of energy left. By that time this Fuji will have forced you to spend alot more money, since you'll need a new wardrobe a size or two smaller. That ain't a bad thing at all.

Any thing i can do to alleviate the neck and back pain from bending over while riding? Also how i can i make the bike shift more smoothly? Is the rear cog supposed to be in the hardest gear to start out??

The chain should be on the largest cog, unless you can bench press a Buick. You should be able to rest a yardstick across the saddle and top of the handlebars and have it parallel to the top tube (the one you stand over when you get off the bike). Some people like an "aggressive" sitting position with the seat higher than the handlebars. A similar seat/handlebar adjustment for other riders can be very uncomfortable (sore neck, sore wrists, tingling/numbness in hands). If you stand over the top tube, with feet planted firmly on the ground, and lift the bike bike up level there should be an inch or two clearance between the tires and ground. If you have 3 or 4 inches or more clearance, and have to raise the seat up high, the bike frame size might be too small. If it is the right size, you can ride the brake hoods on the handlebars, as long as you can effectively stop the bike using the levers in that riding position. You can also try tilting the bars up just slightly. If the problem persists, and it's the correct size bike for you, a performance flat bar road bike might work better for you...as a last resort...when all else fails. Remember one thing...any skill you pick-up working on this bike will be a great asset if you become a dedicated cyclist. Bikes breakdown while you are touring, commuting, etc. Being able to diagnose and fix a mechanical problem out on the road can really save the day.

Shifting smoothness...shifter levers screwed down too tight? Everything oiled? Cable slack taken up? Cable moves easily back and forth inside the cable housing? The adjustment screw on the derailleurs properly set? Not too much else beyond this...unless somebody else reading can think of something. BTW, make sure you are pedaling at all times when shifting. Working with friction shifters is a bit of an art form. That isn't a bad thing. You have you listen for "smoothness" and tune it in with slight adjustments of the levers if the "smoothness" isn't there. There are alot of pluses with friction shifters, especially if you have ever broken a "brifter" and seen how much they cost to replace. IMHO, friction shifters can also take more abuse and neglect. That can make them better for certain types of riding...touring and commuting...at least that's my opinion on the matter.

Time and practice.

Well the bike is a bit big for me, but i will probably grow into and grow out of it in short time. I only have about an inch of clearance. Are you saying the seat should be the same height as the handlebars? or just high enough so my legs are almost fully extended? also what can i do to make the drivetrain (rear) less noisy? should i use the chain tension adjuster screw on the rear derailer? will that help? and why does my rear brake not stop me but merely slow me down? it takes me many feet to stop, and thats not safe.