So I've found a bit of information on here for converting a Simplex hanger to allow Campy/Suntour/Shimano derailleurs, but I'm in the opposite situation. My Peugeot already has a Campy NR RD/FD/Shifter.

The problem is, I don't really like em. At the very least, I'm hoping to put on some Simplex retrofriction shifters, but I'm curious what my RD options are. Is it feasible or even possible to go back to a Simplex RD? If not, a first-gen Superbe would look at least as appropriate as the NR, and probably work a bit better.

I was about to tell you that both a Simplex and a Suntour will mount no problem, but then I noticed something odd on the backside of your hanger. I would expect to see only the end of the hanger bolt there. Something strange has been added.

I suggest that you look for one of the drop-parallelogram Super LJs or an SX610.

I don't like NR derailers either.

Will a Campag/Shimano bolt fit in a Simplex derailleur?

Hmm...not sure what you're referring to. The blue arrow or the red arrow

The blue arrow has nothing to do with the derailer. It's a wheel stop. What is that on the end of the derailer mounting bolt and why is that bolt so chewed up? It just doesn't look right to me.

Hi, Suncake-

An LJ or SX series Simplex should still fit. I just measured the bolt diameter on an LJ and it is slightly smaller than the bolt diameter of the stock Simplex Criterium. Nonetheless, it should fit in the back of the Simplex dropout even given the Dremelling and threading to accomodate the Campy derailleur. Simplexes all have a stamped steel tab to act as a range of motion limiter and it is fixed to the derailleur body so the cut to the dropout will not affect it. Have you considered a Criterium? It's a straight fit to the Simple dropout and despite the scorn heaped on plastic Simplexes, the metal reinforcements make them quite effective. I have been using one on a PX 10 on an old Maillard freewheel and it shifts quite well. Just a possibility to consider and much cheaper than than trying to find a reasonably priced LJ.

The bolt sticks out slightly, but there isn't anything attached to it. Is the hanger naturally recessed like that on the inside? The bolt doesn't look the best, but the threads haven't caused any problems.

Super LJs can be expensive, but you can still find good deals if you're patient. I paid $40 for this one, but it was a couple of years ago. The price included the matching FD.



The SX610 is a favorite of mine. I had a bunch of them at one time, but I've sold most of them. I don't think I ever paid more than $20 for one. It's pretty much the same as the super LJ above, but it has a steel cage and the arms are plastic under the metal. It weighs something like 35 grams more. I have them on two bikes and I've kept a couple of spares. I replace the pulleys on all Simplexes with Bullseyes. The Criterium that was on my PX10 lasted for 10 years before a pulley disintegrated and left me stranded miles from home.

So I picked up a 5500 SLJ from Kurt (who else?), but I'm not quite sure how to tighten it, considering the back part of the hanger seems to have been flattened to accept a Campy derailer. I can tighten the hanger enough to prevent the mounting bolt to move, but I'm afraid that the upper pivot will be too tight.

I for one wouldn't go with the SX series simplex because they tend to break just below the hanger bolt like this.



I have seen several like this at the local bike coop and had one break on a build recently.

You are correct. The tab needs to be on the front side of the hanger to provide the spring action.

RE: SX-610. I do not care for them. I found them to shift poorly compared to the SLJs I own.

Suncake; yes, your dropout hanger has been permanently altered to accept the Campy derailleur. A somewhat common "drew" back then.

Could you clarify what problems (if any) this causes for the Simplex RD? Thanks.

My guess is that a washer of the proper ID and OD would make that work.

No reason why it should not work as is. Once you reposition the tab, that is.

The SX-660 is also an affordable alternative to the SLJ units. Like the SLJs, it is all metal, but has a steel pulley cage like the SX-610 and isn't as nicely finished as the SLJ.

Should work fine, as the others have said, when you position the small tab of the "washer" on the front of the dropout hanger.

I don't have a photo of an early Simplex dropout hanger, but I do have a photo of an SLJ 5000 on a Simplex v2 hanger:



That tab position on Suncake's RD doesn't make sense though - I'm a bit concerned that there's something wrong with the spring on it. I might have to pull the RD off the Peugeot PY10 to see what the 5500's tab should look like at rest.

-Kurt

I apologize for hijacking this thread, but for some time I've been wondering what the pieces screwed into the back of the dropout are called. My Mercier should have them, but doesn't. All my other bikes have normal dropout adjusters.

The difference between the SLJs and the SX610s are mostly on the parallelogram arms. The SLJ have cast aluminum arms, shile the SX610 RDs had chromed sheet steel covered Delrin (plastic) arms. Don't worry about the Delrin arms though, as the steel wrap on them seems to keep them from busting up like other older Delrin simplex parts after some time. Lots of Simplex SX610 RDs from the 80's still working everyday out there without any problems. I suspect you'll wear out the jockey pulley wheels and cage on them way before the derailleur arms start giving out.

From the pic though, it seems that the SX660 has aluminum arms too, I always thought the the difference between the 610 and the 660 was only the pulley cage legnth for different capacities.

Chombi

I'm failing at getting the tab in the right place. Better post here before I break something. From what I can tell, there's only one orientation that I can get the tab washer to fit...and this won't allow me to get on the other side of the hanger.

^^ To clarify, I can only put the spring end into the "-" hole to align the flat edges of the center hole. I'm worried that the dark grey washer is being rounded off.

Hmm. Is the other end of the spring properly seated in the derailer body on the other side? I'm wondering if the spring has to be tensioned 180 degrees to the flats of the bolt.

-Kurt

I'm kinda surpised to see that these older straight parallelogram Simplex RDs are also tensioned at the top pivot with a spring. Maybe because I never owned one of these model Simplex's. I always thought that they are only tensioned on the bottom pivot to control the jocky wheel cage movements (like the Campy NR RD). If this does indeed require upper pivot tension, It most likely needs to be pre-tensioned (twisted) before bolting on to a dropout. That might be why things don't seem to be lining up on you.

Chombi

Pretty much correct. Just looked at my SLJ and the spring end is 180 degrees opposite the position in suncake's photo. Use an allen wrench to put tension on the spring and install the plate. Mine uses the minus hole. That puts the tab on the correct side of the derailleur and provides the needed tension.