Over the winter I purchased a 10-speed road bike with Campy components in particular friction shifters and derailleurs. I've gotten my courage up (almost 70 years old, but in great shape) to start riding this bike. I haven't had a bike with friction shifters on the down tube since I was in my 30's and I just sort of figured out how to shift on my own by trial and error. My question is for all of you roadies/racers of yesteryear. What's the actual technique for shifting? In no particular order ...
1. Do you switch hands when you are shifting front vs rear derailleurs?
2. Do you place your fingers on the down tube to stabilize your hand when shifting?
3. Do you use your thumb and index finger to push/pull the shift lever forward and backward?
4. How to you shift and brake at the same time?
5. What else do I need to know technique-wise?

TSapp

Whatever works for you is the right technique

I'm newish to downtube shifters as well, but for what it's worth, here are my answers to your questions.

1. Yes.
2. I don't think I do. I'll try to notice next time.
3. Yes.
4. Generally I don't.
5.

I think the exact details of technique will be dependent on the individual, but I will say that you want to take the time to make sure that you have the friction adjustment set where it is comfortable for you (not so loose that you easily overshift, not so tight that you have to push or pull hard on the lever).

I use my dominant hand, right, and my thumb on that hand to grab and pull down the rear and front shifters. If you're not used to taking your hands off the bars, as many people used to brake lever shifters might not be, it's going to take a little getting used to. Before long though, you'll be able to reach down without looking and shift without even thinking about it. It becomes automatic. Best of luck to you!

I also use my right hand more than my left for shifting either lever.

1. Sometimes.
2. No.
3. Yes.
4. Generally I don't either.
5.

As mentioned above, with practice it will become 2nd nature. My levers are pretty much right where my hand drops straight down, so no need to look. I'll also second the advice that the lever tension should be tight enough to not slip, but not so tight that there is any binding, etc.

I also use my dominant hand (right) only. That leaves my left hand on the front brake lever, although I generally don't brake and shift simultaneously.

Typically if I'm doing a double shift (front and rear) I'll shift the chainring first, then the rear. I'd be hard pressed to explain why I do it in that order, and I don't know if that's what's recommended. It's really a pretty seamless transition between shifts.

Depending on your gear, you might find that the smoothest shifts are obtained by overshifting slightly, then pulling back on the lever, especially when you up-shift the rear. This will become second nature once you've ridden a lot. Using a modern ramped freewheel will mitigate much of the need for this practice, but some of us like the old school clunk.

Just ride for a few days and you'll be able to answer your own questions!

Yeah, experiment, practice; figure out what works best for you. If you ride on the drops, you might try my technique for maximizing stability when riding one-handed - I brace my lower forearm (just above the wrist) against the upper bend of the bar, so I have two points of contact with the bar, i.e. my hand and my forearm.
For more accurate shifting, I like to curl my index & middle finger around the front of the shift lever, with my thumb on the back side. Then I can shift according to my wrist angle, instead of just pushing forward or backward on the lever. This is particularly useful when moving fast, over rough road, and/or while pedalling hard. With this technique, the orientation of my hand is "thumbs down".

Having a well-lubricated shifter pivot and cables is a big deal, as is the use of retrofriction-type shifters, all of which allow the lowest level of force to shift, which enhances accuracy.

I think that the very best friction-shift freewheel is Shimano Uniglide, together with modern chain in the narrowest width that your chainring spacing will allow without the chain ever skating on the small ring.

9-speed chain will work best on any Uniglide or Suntour freewheel, and is almost a necessity on Ultra-spaced Suntour freewheels if you want good shifting.

Most older French and Italian freewheels won't work so well with narrow chain, and will tend to slip during shifts.

Shifting while braking and cornering is done under no power, so there may be less audible feedback as to shift progress.
As long as the cornering and braking take full mental priority over shifting, the technique is learned quickly.
And, obviously there are times when taking one hand off of the bars is not be a good idea.

Oh, and I do all my shifting right-handed, so that my dominant left hand stays on the bar.

The fit of the bicycle is also VERY important to friction shifting, the rider must remain comfortably in control during shifting.

So, a lot of " shifting technique" is really in bike setup!

Hey, it's great that you've started riding again! Pedal on!

Now about shifting, you didn't say if the shifters were mounted on the downtube or the stem. It might make a difference in how comfortable you feel shifting one way or another. Since you mentioned downtube, we can assume that.

I've used downtube shifters for decades, and my answers are (not that they necessarily apply to anyone else):
1. Usually Occasionally I'll reach through the frame for a lever with the opposite hand, but not typically. Occasionally I'll do a double shift with one hand, but not very often. When I do a double shift it usually works best to do the upshift first followed immediately by the downshift on the other lever.
2. No.
3. Not really. Depending on the angle of the lever I may grab it between thumb and clenched fingers. If the gearins such that it is quite far down and I want to pull it up I may just pull up with a pair of fingers alone.
4. Not usually. Too much to think about, especially since one has to be pedaling to shift. The only exception is if it is an unexpected stop and I know I'll want to be in a different gear, typically lower, when I start back up. This is a bigger deal on a tandem than on a solo bike.
5. The more you do it the smoother it gets!

Find a large, unused parking lot and practice. I use the one at the community college.

Not on your list: right hand only, finger tips only, back of thumbfinger brushing the top tube underside, and never look down.

If you're really stylin' you can shift the rear and trim the front at the same time. I felt pretty good when I mastered this.

I have a Motobecane Le Champion with down tube shifters:

1. Do you switch hands when you are shifting front vs rear derailleurs?

I use my right hand for both

2. Do you place your fingers on the down tube to stabilize your hand when shifting?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no

3. Do you use your thumb and index finger to push/pull the shift lever forward and backward?

Yes
4. How to you shift and brake at the same time?

If I have to do that, then I'm in the drops but I can only brake with the front wheel. I'm not a racer, just a tourist. I never race anyone. Well.... there was this really cute girl once 35 years ago wearing hot pants that I did my best to catch up to, but she got away.....

5. What else do I need to know technique-wise?

Just practice. I have extra problems. I have a 15-26 rear and a TA 26, 52 front. I have to be careful that the rear is not 15 when I shift up from 26 to 52, or the chain will drop off on to the right crank arm. And I have to avoid shifting back into the the back 26 when I'm already on the front 26---FAST. I shift into it, and then back quick. Or I could put the chain in between the back 26 and the spokes(Ok I final;ly bought one of those ugly metal guards because I got tired of chewing up spokes.)

(You do realize, of course, that the mere act of verbalizing how it's done makes it sound WAY more complicated than it is in practice. Like trying to explain to someone what one has to do to, say, walk around a corner.)

It took me a while to get comfortable using my left hand to shift the front, but I think it's a good idea to keep your circulation going in both hands. I still only shift if the road immediately ahead isn't bumpy and I won't need to brake.

Lots of great advice here. Actually, I'm not new to biking. There was a 10-15 year period where I didn't do much of it. For the past 8 years though, I've logged over 1200 miles a year on the road. The technology has advanced from the days of friction shifting (I missed that transition) and my new road bike (2008 Seven Axion Steel) has the modern combined shifting/braking system. It sure makes you appreciate how professional racers in the past were able to compete in their sport.
TSapp

Roger that. I completely astounded a bunch of kids (riders under 40) with one handed half-steps.

Top

On gently rolling terrain I will sometimes just shift between the big and small chainrings, depending of course whether I'm going up or down, and leave the rear alone. This doesn't always result in the ideal gear/cadence, but there are times when I don't care much about that.

1. Do you switch hands when you are shifting front vs rear derailleurs?
No. I use the right hand mostly. If I only need to change the front, then the left hand. If need to immediately change the rear, I will not switch but use the left hand to do the RD as well. I have learned to use either hand but use the right most of the time.

2. Do you place your fingers on the down tube to stabilize your hand when shifting?
Only for up shifts and then on the front side of the tube. I do place my right thumb on the base of the lever and use the index finger as a hook when down shifting. This the approach I use until I know how much to move the lever to shift cleanly. I use my ears as much as my hands when learning to shift!

3. Do you use your thumb and index finger to push/pull the shift lever forward and backward?
No. See above. Mostly, when upshifting, I will "hit" the RD lever with the index fingner between the joints. I have learned how long to contact the lever to move it the right amount for the shift. This approach is really fast. Once I know how far to "rotate" the lever for downshifting , I only use the index as a hook to pull back.

4. How to you shift and brake at the same time?
Don't as a rule and can't think of a time when I did. If I am braking, I am not pedaling so shifting has no effect. I will shift prior to applying my brakes if I am coming to a stop or slowing down. I will guess which gear I need to continue either from a stop or lower speed. I may shift several times as I think I am going to continue then realize I am stopping.

5. What else do I need to know technique-wise?

• Shift with minimum or no load (pedal pressure)
• Anticipate early that you need to shift and learn when a good time is to get into the correct gear.
• Learn what the ratio's are of your gear train to know the sequence and in spacing. This way you will know how to shift for the maximum benefit to keep your cadence even.
• Learn how to get the torque setting on the levers to the best level. Over torquing will require too much effort, under will cause your RD to upshift when you are climbing a hill!
• I enjoy learning how to use mechanical "things". Effective friction shifting can be very rewarding but takes a period of time to learn how to do without thinking. Each bike is different too!
• You can shift without riding by putting the pedal in the 1:00 position, move the lever to the position you need or the far as it will go, lift the rear wheel using the back of the saddle, rotate the crank with you hand or foot to complete the shift.

Above all have fun and don't be distracted to the point of having an accident! Better to lift the rear wheel to shift then go for an ambulance ride. I've done both and prefer the former. No the ambulance ride was not a result of shifting distraction, it was a young uninsured lady who didn't look when she turned in front of me.

Re: ".....No the ambulance ride was not a result of shifting distraction, it was a young uninsured lady who didn't look when she turned in front of me."

All the better reason to have one of those blinking LED lights in both the front and the back. They make the bike visible even in the daytime, because they work on the subconscious of the driver. Blinking lights are more invasive of consciousness since they remind us of possible cops. We are tuned as car drivers to see flashing red lights as a cop and we pay attention immediately.

I would love to see some video of you practicing your Margarita shifting in said parking lot!

Skip

I use one hand to operate both levers.

Not generally.

Yes, usually anyway.

One hand on the shifters, the other on the brake.

Practice, practice, practice. Different shifters and derailleurs respond differently.