My 1968 Raleigh Sports has recently developed a loose cotter in one of the cranks, exhibiting about 1/4" of noticeable play. Raleigh logo nuts are still on the cotters, so this may be the original set. My options, as far as I know, are something along the lines of....

1. Whack the cotter with a hammer and then try to tighten tighten the cotter nut. ($ Free)
2. Bring it to a Boston-area bike shop and pay to have cotters removed, replaced and retightened. ($ Unknown)
3. Buy the Bikesmith cotter press ($59 + shipping) and a couple of replacement cotters.

Advice?

Start with #1, but don't whack it unless you really need to. Does it feel loose?

After that, I'd go straight to #3 if you're mechanically inclined and think you'll have to work on cottered cranks ever again.

Might as well start with #1. What have you got to lose? I'd support the crank on a scrap piece of pipe to prevent damage to the BB. See https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

You could try the Harbor Freight Cotter press someone on here built, too. The Bikesmith press works very well, though.

If you attempt option 1, you need a solid backing under the crank arm, excellent aim, and a good arm. You can't tap a cotter into place - you have to whack it hard, and missing has its "undesirable" consequences.

(That's why I'd suggest option 3)

Yep. The play in the left crank seems to actually be 1/8" or less. But I know the cotter bolts are made of softer metal, and as it slips during pedaling, it will likely further deform against the hardened BB spindle, eventually getting worse. I'm going to first make some inquiries to see if I can borrow a cotter press. Not happy about prospect of $67 + $5 per new cotter bolt....

Aw jeez, guys... don't go whacking the cotter! That's really not good for the BB at all. I have the Bike Smith cotter press myself and it's easy-peasy to use. Barring that, Sheldon Brown had a solution that worked in a pinch (check the site) and I've seen others cobble together a solution using a c-clamp and a socket. But heck, if you don't want to spend big money for the press (and that's as good a reason as any!), just take her down to the LBS. My local guys charged my neighbor five bucks.

4. Find a Boston area bike fanatic with the Bikesmith cotter press (and replacement cotters) and arrange an equitable trade of beer and conversation for cotter and use of cotter press.

Hmm... lemme think if I know such a person...

Or...go to Harbor Frieght and buy a $3.99 8" HD C clamp and a $.65 Deep socket. For $4.64 you can press out almost any cotter. But if you've got play in the crank, once you take the bolt off, the cotter should just drop out.....maybe a little tap to encourage it, but if it loose already there ain't nothin' holdin' it in 'cept the bolt.

Velognome's technique is shown in depth at the link below. It works, I used it today on a Peugeot Mixte that has seen a few NYC winters. You may need lots of heat. Get at least a 5" clamp or 6", the $3.99 one is too small to put any real pressure on the cotter.

The #1 technique mushrooms the cotter pin. Buying new pins is a crapshoot, either too big or too small.

https://hughsbicycle.blogspot.com/201...storation.html

Remove the cotter and inspect for damage:



If it's damaged, no amount of whacking will make it work reliably, so move on to step 2 or 3.

Guys, I have had a half dozen bikes with cotters and although I do not prefer them, they can be very reliable. There is no problem with tapping them in and tightening the nut - provided the cotter has not been damaged like the photo shows. It will not generally do any harm to the BB. With my Raleigh, the original cotters were made of better steel than the replacements, so the replacements were not as reliable. If the cotter has just slight deformation, you can file it smooth and get many more miles from it. I think that buying a press is overkill for what is a very simple job. Realistically you could tap them with the heel of your shoe or a piece of wood.

In my experience, the problem with tapping is that it just mushrooms the head - (at least with the soft cotters available today).
Conversely, I've set many cotters with a strong, deliberate blow, and can attest that they stayed put. Again, this method requires that the crank arm be completely supported from underneath to prevent damage to the bearing surfaces, and whacking is NOT the best method in any case: The cotter press is.

JohnDThompson makes a very critical point - A smooth flat surface on the cotter is essential. (On a lot of the new cotters this surface isn't even flat to begin with.)

PS - After you set a cotter (by whatever method) it is also important to set it again after the bike is ridden, and then tighten (but not over-tighten) the nut.

OK! Tightened the drive-side cotter using a 5" C-Clamp and a 13/16 socket. Enabled the nut to be tightened down several turns. Success!!!!

(Not my photo, but shows the method used)

"C" clamp gods are smiling

I like to remove the cotters and grease 'em. Helps them scootch into place better.

Another vote for c clamp and socket. (Capo #1 still has its original cottered Agrati crankset.)