Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
04-25-14, 01:08 PM
#2951
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I'd only mention that if you do much off-roading you will be happier if your drops are on the wide end of the spectrum. I like the old rando bars on my conversion, but they don't have as much leverage as a wider bar would have - and I miss this on certain trails.
Quick poll of drop-bar MTB riders, and especially those with traditionally "road-bike" shaped ones, not the Woodchippers and similar "off road drop bars", if anyone feels like playing along.
Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?
I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.
Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.
Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.
Thanks.
Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?
I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.
Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.
Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.
Thanks.
04-26-14, 02:04 PM
#2952
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Woo.. I finally get to join the club.
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
04-26-14, 04:59 PM
#2953
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Woo.. I finally get to join the club.
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
I have to say that cantilevers are traditionally not the easiest to set up and those pair I saw of yours are probably some of the worst all time to setup. If you ever try to put another pair on again, the modern wide style tektros are pretty solid to setup. Bolt on style brake pad models help tremendously. Also grease all the nuts and bolts on the vbrakes and canti's because your gonna readjust a million times.
Great at looking build by the way!
04-26-14, 05:07 PM
#2954
Hoards Thumbshifters
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Also I have had good luck with older suntour and older shimano basic front derailuers with the more simple shaping working with the more modern shifters and cranks.
04-26-14, 05:22 PM
#2955
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Quick poll of drop-bar MTB riders, and especially those with traditionally "road-bike" shaped ones, not the Woodchippers and similar "off road drop bars", if anyone feels like playing along.
Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?
I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.
Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.
Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.
Thanks.
Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?
I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.
Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.
Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.
Thanks.
Offroad I greatly prefer the comfort of my bullmose bars, but get around just fine riding the hoods of the brifters on my Croll also. The bullmose bars are more upright, and the overall bike (old Kona Cinder Cone) is much more BMX'esque, whereas the Croll is more weight forward.
I won't lie to you, the wrists sting bit on the Croll on big drops (by that I mean 1-2 foot drop off type stuff such as roots on descents). Both get through the rough and nasty stuff just fine though (in as far as you'd take rigid bikes, that is). I consider the Croll the better all around bike (road, gravel, double track, single track, just not the really rough stuff), and the Kona as strictly offroad.
If your MTB terrain is smoother single track you might like the drops more. I guess the best advice is to keep your old setup stuff around in case you change your mind. With all that, here's the comparison photos (the Croll had regular road bars earlier, which I actually liked more than the midge bars).
04-26-14, 09:03 PM
#2956
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Woo.. I finally get to join the club.
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
1985 and 1/2, Miyata Ridge Runner SE
Mostly 105 (1055 Drivetrain) brifters are 8 speed 105's
STX in the rear, some fat sealed hub in the front.. Guru rims.
There were a few issues with this build... thanks to Bill I already knew about the FD woes, but I got myself a set of other woes I hadn't expected. I opted to use a modernish Ultegra triple FD not realizing how terribly it would mesh with a 1055 crankset, my solution was this
With the limits set properly it seems alright, but only time will tell.
Taking out the stem mounted cablestop for the canti brakes left a gap and I had no tabbed washers left of the proper diameter, I ended up using a piece of threadless spacer not pretty but it gets the job done
This is a tri frame bag on it's side.. I think it worked out perfect.
I also found out I find cantilever brakes to be an abomination upon cyclists here you can see they were thrown aside in disgust in the end.
So far the cheap mini v's I bought do not disappoint!
Your Ridge Runner came out great! Nice choice going with the Scott wrap around handlebar, I've wondered when I'd see one used, you're the first. Please let me know if you get into that extra hand position down by the head tube. Are you still playing with the saddle to bar height? I ask because that seat looks very high in relation to the brifters. I'm imagining throbbing pain in the wrists around mile 30 or so. I ran brifters on my Cimarron and found that the standard v-brakes were awful with the brifters. I had a little better grab with the mini-v-brakes but nothing I would trust while descending. Since I didn't want to use a V-Dapter or Travel Agent to take up the extra cable, I was forced to stay with the canti brakes. Do you have solid stopping power with the mini-v's and brifters? If so, that's great because I sure didn't... totally wrong cable pull.
Well done, now go ride it and give us a trail report!
Cheers!
-D-
04-27-14, 08:23 AM
#2957
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Finally finished with this build 
I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbs
I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbs
04-27-14, 08:33 AM
#2958
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Wow Frantik, nice work. Full on road gearing hey? Well compact, but still... What bars are you using? The drops look longer than the midge.
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04-27-14, 08:52 AM
#2959
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the bar is an Origin 8 Gary bar.. more drop but narrower than the midge. And yeah I might change out the cassette for something with a tiny bit more range on both the bottom and top end but I had a 13-23 dura ace cassette on hand so I figured might as well use it
04-27-14, 06:52 PM
#2964
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What FD are you running and is it playing nice with the brifters? Are you thinking path bike, or is it not so hilly where you are? It turned out great, really a head turner.
04-27-14, 07:18 PM
#2966
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Great looking results, Frantik! It's a head turner.
The hardware is tasty!
The hardware is tasty!
04-27-14, 07:22 PM
#2967
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Looks like a Shimano XT FD-M737. top pull.
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04-27-14, 08:20 PM
#2968
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thanks eveyrbody
as mentioned above, its a deore XT 737. Works fine with the brifters since these older campy brifters don't index the FD. This is mostly intended to be an urban road bike and it's pretty much totally flat for 10 miles in any direction here, so I don't need super wide gearing.
as mentioned above, its a deore XT 737. Works fine with the brifters since these older campy brifters don't index the FD. This is mostly intended to be an urban road bike and it's pretty much totally flat for 10 miles in any direction here, so I don't need super wide gearing.
04-27-14, 08:29 PM
#2969
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04-27-14, 10:38 PM
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Titanium, made in the USA by Sandvik 
I will have to do a full component spec list
edit: here is the part list with weights
I will have to do a full component spec listedit: here is the part list with weights
Here's the part spec along with measured weights in grams
Frame: 1993 DBR Axis Team Titanium (19" C-T) with unknown Shimano bottom bracket - 1840g
Fork: Trek System 3 made by Tange (steel) - 805
Front fork brake hanger: Tektro - 30
Headset: Chris King (cups, bearings, lower crown race, top cap, bolt) - 120
Handlebars: Origin 8 Gary dirt drop - 310
Shifters/Brake levers: Campagnolo Veloce 9 Speed - 410
Stem: System EX 130mm 40 deg - 190
Bar tape: Serfas gel - 70
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT FD-M737 - 136
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 600 RD-6401 - 230
Crankset right arm: Sugino Impel - 285
Crankset left arm: Sugino Impel - 225
Small ring - 32t Sugino alloy - 35
Big ring - 44t Token alloy - 85
Chainring bolts: alloy - 9
Crank bolts: Steel, pair - 27
Crankset total: 660
Pedals: Shimano XT PD-M735 (pair) - 290
Chain: Shimano HG - 305
Brake calipers: Shimano XT BR-732 (front & rear with pads) - 310
Brake bolts front - steel, short - 13
Brake bolts rear - alloy, long - 14
Straddle cable hanger: Onza Chill Pills front and rear - 10
Front Wheel: Ringle Hubbabubba hub, spokes, nipples, Mavic 230 rim, rimstrip - 750
Tire: Compass Tire 26x1.75 - 445
Tubes: Schwalbe - 135
Quick release skewers: Ringle Ti - 40
Front total: 1370
Rear wheel - AC apX 8 hub, spokes, nipples, Mavic x517 rim, rimstrip - 870
Tire: Compass Tire 26x1.75 - 440
Tube: Schwalbe - 135
Skewer: Ringle Ti - 42
Cassette: Dura Ace 8sp 13-23t - 305
Rear total: 1850
Saddle: WTB SST with Ti rails - 265
Seat post: Kore Lite Post 2 - 250
Seat post collar: Gineyea - 19
Cables & Housing: Jagwire Racer brake and shifter cables (uncut weight) - 205
Total: ~9.7kg or 21.4lbs
Frame: 1993 DBR Axis Team Titanium (19" C-T) with unknown Shimano bottom bracket - 1840g
Fork: Trek System 3 made by Tange (steel) - 805
Front fork brake hanger: Tektro - 30
Headset: Chris King (cups, bearings, lower crown race, top cap, bolt) - 120
Handlebars: Origin 8 Gary dirt drop - 310
Shifters/Brake levers: Campagnolo Veloce 9 Speed - 410
Stem: System EX 130mm 40 deg - 190
Bar tape: Serfas gel - 70
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT FD-M737 - 136
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 600 RD-6401 - 230
Crankset right arm: Sugino Impel - 285
Crankset left arm: Sugino Impel - 225
Small ring - 32t Sugino alloy - 35
Big ring - 44t Token alloy - 85
Chainring bolts: alloy - 9
Crank bolts: Steel, pair - 27
Crankset total: 660
Pedals: Shimano XT PD-M735 (pair) - 290
Chain: Shimano HG - 305
Brake calipers: Shimano XT BR-732 (front & rear with pads) - 310
Brake bolts front - steel, short - 13
Brake bolts rear - alloy, long - 14
Straddle cable hanger: Onza Chill Pills front and rear - 10
Front Wheel: Ringle Hubbabubba hub, spokes, nipples, Mavic 230 rim, rimstrip - 750
Tire: Compass Tire 26x1.75 - 445
Tubes: Schwalbe - 135
Quick release skewers: Ringle Ti - 40
Front total: 1370
Rear wheel - AC apX 8 hub, spokes, nipples, Mavic x517 rim, rimstrip - 870
Tire: Compass Tire 26x1.75 - 440
Tube: Schwalbe - 135
Skewer: Ringle Ti - 42
Cassette: Dura Ace 8sp 13-23t - 305
Rear total: 1850
Saddle: WTB SST with Ti rails - 265
Seat post: Kore Lite Post 2 - 250
Seat post collar: Gineyea - 19
Cables & Housing: Jagwire Racer brake and shifter cables (uncut weight) - 205
Total: ~9.7kg or 21.4lbs
Last edited by frantik; 04-27-14 at 11:56 PM.
04-28-14, 10:40 AM
#2971
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[QUOTE=frantik;16705875]Finally finished with this build I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbs
Impressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbsImpressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
04-28-14, 11:32 AM
#2972
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[QUOTE=cooperryder;16709157]
Look to the tires and wheels, that is where the weight really comes off. Looking at frantik's numbers I can see his wheels come in at a pretty respectable weight. Titanium bottom brackets are great for saving weight too, I have a stash of NOS syncros BB's for this reason.
Finally finished with this build I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbs
Impressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbsImpressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
04-28-14, 01:31 PM
#2973
Senior Member
[QUOTE=cooperryder;16709157]
That is an amazing build. Thanks for sharing.
Finally finished with this build I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbs
Impressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
I think i need a stem with less reach but otherwise she's done for now. Weighs a little under 21.5 lbsImpressive! Very nice job? And so light.
But you only beat my latest build I am working on
by only around 9 pounds. LOL!
It would be a dream to get a tall mtb with fat tires so light.
I like the several blue highlights that go well with the frame finish.
That should be great fun to ride & I expect should you find some hills,
climb very well.
Enjoy!
04-28-14, 03:02 PM
#2974
Hogosha Sekai
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I have to say that cantilevers are traditionally not the easiest to set up and those pair I saw of yours are probably some of the worst all time to setup. If you ever try to put another pair on again, the modern wide style tektros are pretty solid to setup. Bolt on style brake pad models help tremendously. Also grease all the nuts and bolts on the vbrakes and canti's because your gonna readjust a million times.
Great at looking build by the way!
Great at looking build by the way!
Hey RaleighSport,
Your Ridge Runner came out great! Nice choice going with the Scott wrap around handlebar, I've wondered when I'd see one used, you're the first. Please let me know if you get into that extra hand position down by the head tube. Are you still playing with the saddle to bar height? I ask because that seat looks very high in relation to the brifters. I'm imagining throbbing pain in the wrists around mile 30 or so. I ran brifters on my Cimarron and found that the standard v-brakes were awful with the brifters. I had a little better grab with the mini-v-brakes but nothing I would trust while descending. Since I didn't want to use a V-Dapter or Travel Agent to take up the extra cable, I was forced to stay with the canti brakes. Do you have solid stopping power with the mini-v's and brifters? If so, that's great because I sure didn't... totally wrong cable pull.
Well done, now go ride it and give us a trail report!
Cheers!
-D-
Your Ridge Runner came out great! Nice choice going with the Scott wrap around handlebar, I've wondered when I'd see one used, you're the first. Please let me know if you get into that extra hand position down by the head tube. Are you still playing with the saddle to bar height? I ask because that seat looks very high in relation to the brifters. I'm imagining throbbing pain in the wrists around mile 30 or so. I ran brifters on my Cimarron and found that the standard v-brakes were awful with the brifters. I had a little better grab with the mini-v-brakes but nothing I would trust while descending. Since I didn't want to use a V-Dapter or Travel Agent to take up the extra cable, I was forced to stay with the canti brakes. Do you have solid stopping power with the mini-v's and brifters? If so, that's great because I sure didn't... totally wrong cable pull.
Well done, now go ride it and give us a trail report!
Cheers!
-D-
Freaking gorgeous! I was hoping for a reprieve for my ugly betty but you blew it out of the water!
04-28-14, 06:02 PM
#2975
Chainstay Brake Mafia
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
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Thanks everybody
Look to the tires and wheels, that is where the weight really comes off. Looking at frantik's numbers I can see his wheels come in at a pretty respectable weight. Titanium bottom brackets are great for saving weight too, I have a stash of NOS syncros BB's for this reason.
yeah the BB is the only thing I don't know the exact weight of and I suspect I could drop weight there. Eventually I'd like to go with a modern two piece crankset with an outboard BB to reduce weight even further. Just need to find the right crankset
Look to the tires and wheels, that is where the weight really comes off. Looking at frantik's numbers I can see his wheels come in at a pretty respectable weight. Titanium bottom brackets are great for saving weight too, I have a stash of NOS syncros BB's for this reason.
Last edited by frantik; 04-28-14 at 06:06 PM.