bconneraz

[QUOTE=cooperryder;16669579]My seat stays at the seat tube on my red Cimarron broke loose a few weeks ago.
Before:


After:
Perhaps it secretly wanted to be a GT. Ha Ha!





I disassembled the Peugeot a few days ago & will be rebuilding with some of the old and also some parts
from the Cimarron as well as these 2.3 fat Michelin Pilot Sports. The Peugeot has a few cm more clearance for them than the Cimarron.
I thought the similar matching checkered flags was a nice touch. (See downtube and tire sidewall.)


I'll be crushed if that happens to my Cimarron; glad your fixing it as it's worth fixing.

Steamer

:: BUDDY FLAPS :: * fancy

the one in the back is for your buddies, the one in front is for your feet.

due ruote 

Thanks, I'll keep my eye out for one of those. I figured a Nitto would work; was tempted by the Kalloy because they're readily available and cheap as, well, dirt. Hard to tell though from the picture whether the taper on the clamp would be sufficient to accomodate the bars.

wrk101, the removable face plate is very sensible but I'm a sucker for the clean lines of a traditional quill so I'm going to tough it out.

frantik

wise choice

frantik

What tires are those? Paselas? Looks like a panaracer tread pattern...

Steamer

Compass 1.75's. Yes, same tread pattern as the Paselas. Ride quality and smoothness is a bit better though, especially if we are talking about the TG version of Paselas (which seems to be all you can buy these days; the plain versions are disappearing...)

frantik

sweet i have two pairs of the compass tires I looked for the logo but didn't see it so i assumed they were paselas. I picked up a pair of NOS old school Paselas in 1" size for cheap and put em on my gf's bike. She's very happy with them so far..

pathdoc

My 26 inch wheel tandem with road bike handlebars

frantik

^ sweet

jeremyb

Iirc those crosscuts have crazy long top tubes.

treadtread

Looks good! I really like how older mountain bikes look with drops. Do you use a size smaller than usual (in mountain bike terms) to compensate for the additional stretch introduced by the handlebar? Or is that inadvisable, and just use a smaller/riser stem? I'd love to do this some day!

cyclotoine

If you look at his seat height I would say he is using a size larger than normal in terms of BITD MTB fitment.

My comment is that the dirt drop style stems tend to be very short reach and have a lot of rise so you shouldn't have to size up or down because MTB's were made silly long stems in the 1990s... Syncros even had a 170mm stem in some models... so it's the stem you use that will make all the difference.

Sixty Fiver, I have noticed you tend to ride large frames and do not use short stems, do you have a proportionally long torso and/or arms?

Squeeze

Quick poll of drop-bar MTB riders, and especially those with traditionally "road-bike" shaped ones, not the Woodchippers and similar "off road drop bars", if anyone feels like playing along.

Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?

I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.

Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.

Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.

Thanks.

Sixty Fiver

It is a higher rise / shorter reach stem...

cyclotoine

I do not qualify for the poll, but I ride mountain bikes a lot and road bikes and I think you might be able to ride find but that you will give up a lot of speed and handling.

Sixty Fiver

I have a 33 inch riding inseam and longer arms with a fairly average torso for my five foot ten frame... 52-55cm is my range of rideability depending on geometry and setup on my road bikes and touring bikes.

My Cooper road bike is a 55.5 with an 80mm stem and it fits like a glove, my P20 has an effective top tube of 54cm and I currently have an 80mm stem and am building a 100 mm custom stem.

Most people who are my height find that they can't deal with the extra reach I have on my bikes and I can comfortably test ride 56-58 cm frames as long as they are not rocking extra long stems because I have the flexibility and reach... I also spend a lot of time in the drops and have more issues with sitting upright.

My Blizzard is a 20 inch frame which is large for a mountain bike but the set up and reach are ideal for me... I have tried riding 18 inch frames and they feel cramped up top.

kehomer

This bike is about 90% completed. It started out as a 1986 Stumpjumper Sport frame and fork I purchased a year ago. The paint is candy-orange powder. The components are a mix of new, NOS and refurbished used. I think the most distinctive things about the bike are the Shimano 105 7sp downtube shifters and the color. The shifters are mounted on brazed on posts. I really like the relaxed geometry of the frame/fork. The 44/34/24 chainrings and the 32t big cassette gear help my old knees to get up these North Georgia hills. Aluminum fenders and lighter wheels are additions I hope to make soon. The bike weighs 26 1/2 pounds minus the rack.

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Yo Spiff

Actually, the top tube on mine worked out just about right, and I don't have long arms. My converted Trek 900 has the bar reach good, but just a touch further than ideal. The crosscut is perfect.

I did just change the crosscut from Salsa Woodchippers to OnOne Midge bars, so I'll see if the reach still works once I take it for a spin.

due ruote 

Kehomer, fantastic job on that Stumpjumper!

What tires are you using?

pathdoc

Great job, killer bicycle, love the color and the frame. Very nice.

kehomer

Thank you. I was surprised at how well it turned out. The tires are Panaracer T-Servs 1.75". Great tires!

kehomer

Thanks for the kind words!

neo_pop_71

Oh man kehomer, that Stumpjumper is amazing! I've been wondering when we'd see your modified frame build, you had plenty of interest from your previous posting. I have to say that it was well worth the wait, yours is easily top 5, maybe even top 3 Stumpies that I've ever seen... it's just beautiful! I'm absolutely loving the brazed down tube shifters but even the little touches like the braided cable housing (my personal favorite) are just right!

I'm curious what canti brake calipers are you running? That cable flare is about as wide as I've seen, I really dig how it looks!

I'm going to pursue having shift mounts brazed on some future builds. It looks sharp and since I'm not a fan of bar end shifters, it's a great additional option for a drop bar build! I'd never considered adding the braze ons until I saw your previous posting... thanks for the inspiration!

kehomer

I appreciate the good words! They mean a lot. The brake calipers are old Shimano BR-454 made in Japan, borrowed from another MT bike. I haven't ridden the bike much yet but anticipate that I may have to change out the Ichigear Pista drop bars for something more conventional. It is surprising, however that I can achieve a number of useful hand positions. I really like the bottom of the drops position however. Bike control is terrific and I have a more upright position than with conventional drops.

So far, I really love this bike!

bconneraz

Exactly why I went with mustache bars; they are great for riding the road, or on single track.