CannedPakes

Nice bike. Where'd you get the frame pump?

zjrog

I have a drop bar from my Cannondale R200 that I just hated the curves on, and I did bend in one side in a crash. I might give that a try and see about a drop bar conversion...

badger_biker 

After failing to get the STI setup functioning reliably I redid the cockpit with Tektro levers and Dura Ace bar end shifters on my Pro ATB. I also changed the FD to a road model Sora.

I feel much more comfortable with the shifting but the reverse lever action on the RD will take some getting used to.

mountaindave 

Reverse pull on the bar-ends? @badger_biker, is the RD low-normal? If so, how is it working for you?

badger_biker 

MD - I'm not sure exactly what low normal means but it is a Deore LX that moves inward with cable slack. It is working very well with the bar end indexing. I think under a touring load and facing a step climb I'm going to like the down motion on the rear shifter to downshift but trying to break the habit of doing the opposite will be a struggle. I have 3 other bikes with bar ends that I ride often so it will be a continuous relearning 😖

mountaindave 

You've got it. In the derailleur's normal position, it is in the lowest gear. That means you have to pull on the cable to shift up. It may be confusing with bar-ends, but it is completely intuitive with STI's or Rapid Fire - big paddle for either derailleur gets you a "bigger" gear, little paddle gets you a "smaller" gear. I have a low-normal RD on my grocery-getter and it's lovely. (But it's also the only bike with Rapid Fire shifters, so no confusion created.)

due ruote 

I have read that this was a fairly common practice back in the gnarly nascent days of mtb. Then again those guys probably did all sorts of things I wouldn't dream of doing.

Squeeze

Well, I technically have a drop-bar MTB now, but it's not ready to ride.

Questions:

1. The cables that came with my Shimano bar-end shifters are too short to reach the RD. I tried both, in case one is longer than the other. Is this what I need?

Jagwire Tandem Shift Cable Stainless Slick 3100mm

2. The cantilever brakes on my bike seem to have different length springs on each side, and the canti "arms", for lack of the correct term, don't move equal distances. I have cleaned and greased the shafts they rotate on, so I don't think gunk and goo in preventing full movement. I see I can buy replacement springs. Should I? Also, there are plastic "spring covers" - again, that's undoubtedly the wrong name, but I don't know what they're called. The spring covers enclose the springs except for the straight parts of the spring that enter a recessed area in the cantilever arm on one side and enter the center hole in the frame/fork of the bike. These plastic spring covers are old (it's a 1993 bike) and falling apart. Do I need replacements? If so, can anyone link an example please? I may not be using the right search term and so I'm not finding this part.

And, because we all love pictures, here's a quick shot of my work in progress. The things on the handlebars are flexible "Gear Ties" sold at hardware stores. They're rubber-wrapped metal ties and do a good job of holding the cables in place against the handlebar before they're ready for tape. I added a fork-mounted cable hanger. Previously the front brake cable went through a hole in the stem. Hopefully this will help with fork shudder. I look forward to being able to ride this to find out.

Handlebar tape will be black, as I don't think I can find a red tape to match the dark red in the frame. I have guessed at handlebar angle and brake lever placement. I imagine I will fine-tune those when this is ready to ride.

thumpism 

Those spring covers had the habit of breaking, although that has not been a problem on my own bikes that use these. Yet. When I was repping it was common practice to carry a big plastic sack of these in the van to dole out to shops that needed some spares. Don't know who'd have them in stock now. Normally, you'd adjust the little screw on one of the canti arms to adjust the centering of the brake arms and that would take care of it. With the cracked covers it is harder to adjust correctly, in my experience. Disclaimer: I was not working in shops when this brake was current so my exposure is more limited than many who post on here.

I also found use for the Gear Ties. I use one in place of the worn-out elastic bands on my old Eclipse Pro handlebar bag to attach the D-rings to the front rack to hold the bag steady. Runs from one ring down under the rack top and over to the other ring. Works fine.

mountaindave 

Coming along nicely! It seems odd that the new cables are not long enough. I would think an LBS would have some tandem cables. I had to get some for an extra-cycle project. That looks like a large frame with a tall stem, I could see it pushing the limit of standard cables with bar-ends.

mountaindave 

My FIL had his old plastic spring covers wear out. I simply replaced the brakes with some spare linear pulls. I can't imagine there are replacements for them. When they start to crack, spring tension becomes uneven between the two sides and, as mentioned, they become hard/impossible to adjust properly. It might be cheaper/easier to replace them with something more reliable.

Squeeze

Thanks guys. You are both correct about those plastic spring holders being extinct, according to a LBS I visited today. I talked to two guys who agreed it has been 20 years since they had seen those as a replacement part. Apparently the solution is to replace the whole things.

So, almost fifty dollars poorer, I'm back from the store with a tandem shifter cable and two sets of new Shimano cantilever brakes. I figure as long as I'm doing this, I might as well do it right, but I'm reminded of the old saying that most projects take twice as long and cost three times as much as expected.

Time to git wrenchin' again. Hopefully I'll finish this today.

What do I do with the old canti parts? Would a bike co-op want them or should I just pitch them in the recycling bin?

The standard cable almost reaches the RD but doesn't have enough length to loop around and attach. I intend to wrap the cables under the tape up to the stem, so that is taking up what would probably be just enough cable to run them exposted from near the bottom of the bars as most folks do.

Squeeze

They also work great to tie a bike to the workbench in my garage to keep it from being knocked over.

wrk101

My bike co-op appreciates old parts, so donate them.

The lower end Shimano cants from the early 1990s tended to have those plastic spring bodies. Higher end Shimano cantis were a better design, as were older Shimanos from the mid 1980s and Dia Compes.

LesterOfPuppets

Even LX got those plastic spring covers. Not sure if any XTs ever had them.

Quick search and yep, XT had those damn things, too. BR-M737

himespau 

I have some XT canti's from the mid 90's that have those plastic caps, which eventually led to me giving up on those calipers. Shame, they were really nice brakes with good stopping power other than the one flaw.

wrk101

The XT M734s had the better design. Ditto the DX 650s.

LesterOfPuppets

Ah, yes, the paper football brake arms! Love those.

I have some 1996 STX cantis that came after the terrible plastic piece brakes that had a smaller plastic piece which was less susceptible to breaking.

By 1997 pretty much all decent MTBs had Vees, though.

cookandcycle

Looking through this thread I was completely inspired. A few months back I had been looking for a late 90's aluminum MTB to build up in order to try to make my dream bike from whenI started cycling. A friend of mine from a LBS said he had a stumpjumper if I wanted it. Turned out he had a rigid 1991ish rockhopper. Not what I was looking for. After months of searching for the bike I wanted, I happened across this thread and remembered he had the bike. I immediately called him and asked if he wanted to trade it for my bmx bike I no longer used. He was thrilled with the idea so we did. Ive had the rockhopper for about a week. It came to me with a busted rear wheel which I replaced and I replaced the casette while I was at it. came with no front tire so I grabbed a CST sidewinder, which I may put on the back seeing how great it looks and feels. I put WTB cyclocross race bars and shimano slr brake levers I had sitting around. So far about $110 put into it so far and all I need now is a seatpost, one bar end shifter, and some bar tape and a good trail! You guys in this thread have made me look at bikes in a much wider spectrum and for that I thank you.

mountaindave 

Nice! Are you making a 1x setup? I did the same but left all the chainrings on. Technicall I can still use them, I just have to stop and shift.

Clean up those white brake hoods (simple green, goo gone or the like) and you're going to have one sexy cockpit!! If they are still slightly tacky, dust them with baby powder - it'll whiten them up further and you will smell baby fresh.

Squeeze

Many thanks to everyone who helped with advice, inspiration, and a mention to @Velocivixen as promised, since these were her Midge bars originally.

We were talking briefly on the last page of this thread about Gear Ties. Here's a shot of how they can be used as temporary bar tape while cutting housing to length.



With tape on the bars, out on a gravel trail yesterday:




With my son's bike at a park yesterday afternoon:



I'm delighted with the switch from flat bars. Previosly I had mis-matched brake levers and shifters, the brake pads (and I guess the brake arms too, with the worn-out spring covers) were shot, and it was time for a full tune-up. Despite it taking longer and costing more than I expected, the actual work was easy to do and I'm very pleased with the results.

The day I brought it home from craigslist in 2013:



Yesterday:

mountaindave 

And pleased you should be!

Squeeze

Thanks, @mountaindave. I'm grateful for your advice.

wesmamyke

Good trick with those reusable cable ties.

imabeliever1

Got this one finished this week. Bought the frame and fork, with brakes BB, and headset at the Frankenbike SA swap in June for $5.00.
Mid 80's High Sierra now fitted out with parts I had. Have not been able to ride it because of recent surgery, but I'm looking forward to it.