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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 10-06-21, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by gthomson
Could these bikes be used in a gravel bike race or do they have specific rules as to what makes a gravel bike?
Mine isn't really suited for racing (I don't think so anyway), but I did build it with all sorts of road types in mind. It'll suit for those trips when I'm even hesitant to take the LHT.
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Old 10-06-21, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by thorstein
Love those SunTour 3 pulley derailers! Which one is it? I can't quite tell from the pic.
Itís a Cyclone MK-II body that I attached a 3-pulley to. It was a clean swap from the original GT cage. For as much as I also love the look, it seems to get very temperamental if the hanger is even slightly misaligned.
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Old 10-06-21, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pcons713
Yes, it has required a bit of adjusting and seems like it will work out well. Still not 100% but it is getting there, and a little touch to the barrel adjuster mid-ride is ok for now.



I'm using a no-name stem adapter which I bought a while ago, so I don't know which website. I can't recall how tall this one is but I know its either 160 or 180mm. In this photo it isn't quite extended to the max height, so I can still bring the tops level with the saddle if needed. Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard of many quill stem failures on the fork insert part so I'm not very concerned about the reputability. I think most fail near the handlebar clamp.

This fender setup is so clean. Are the pannier rail looking bits functional?
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Old 10-07-21, 08:24 AM
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Loving all the tan wall options showing up on the vintage drop bar MTBs. I went with the Maxxis DTH for mine. But the Billy Bonkers and the Gravel Kings look pretty sweet.

Here's my ride in its latest iteration (photo is from summer though). She's a pretty steady gravel road climber. The only thing I may change yet is the stem setup. Maybe doing a threadless stem adapter quill stem. Actually, how I go about that might depend on a recent observation I had of the steering behavior. I'd been riding a vintage flat bar MTB a bit on some single track trails and hadn't gotten out on the drop bar MTB much. First ride I took on it again, I felt a sensation like it wanted to steer into the corners. I can't recall noticing that phenomena before and I don't think I have on my road bike either (though, I haven't been riding it for a while either and not since I road the flat bar MTB more). Can it be something to do with stem height, or length? Or some combination of them?


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Old 10-07-21, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rooney
Itís a Cyclone MK-II body that I attached a 3-pulley to. It was a clean swap from the original GT cage. For as much as I also love the look, it seems to get very temperamental if the hanger is even slightly misaligned.
Interesting! Mine is an original XC body that hasn't given me any trouble even after repairing the broken off b-stop tab. I'm on the lookout for derailer bodies that could be subbed in when it finally fails for good.
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Old 10-07-21, 11:10 AM
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My friend gave me this MTB and I turned into a drop bar singlespeed. I later donated it to the local co op.
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Old 10-07-21, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mattk42

First ride I took on it again, I felt a sensation like it wanted to steer into the corners. Can it be something to do with stem height, or length? Or some combination of them?

so, you never noticed it before on this bike? i would guess if you're used to how it or other mtb's handle with flat bars, then it could be just that. mtb's aren't really geometrically designed for drop bars. so, your weight distribution changes going from flat bars to drops particularly at the front wheel. more of your weight is toward the front wheel and your sensitivity towards it's handling would be accentuated. and, weight distribution affects how front trail/wheel flop behaves
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Old 10-07-21, 02:39 PM
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These bikes look so rad, I really want to make one and those tan wall tires give it that extra bling. I notice most people have to raise the handle bars significantly, is that because the ergonomics of the mountain bike frame require it or more of a personal choice? I admit, I like the look of the builds using a road bike stem and bars but want it be comfortable enough. This is the bike that I would be converting if I can do it.

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Old 10-07-21, 02:40 PM
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What a beauty. What size are those DTHs and where were you able to find them? I've been looking for the fatter version of those but can't seem to find them.
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Old 10-07-21, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gthomson
These bikes look so rad, I really want to make one and those tan wall tires give it that extra bling. I notice most people have to raise the handle bars significantly, is that because the ergonomics of the mountain bike frame require it or more of a personal choice? I admit, I like the look of the builds using a road bike stem and bars but want it be comfortable enough. This is the bike that I would be converting if I can do it.
head tubes are typically shorter and top tubes are longer on mtb's compared to road bikes. and, putting drop handlebars on greatly increases how far it is to reach brake levers and the drops themselves. a shorter and taller stem is the solution bringing the handlebars closer to you.
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Old 10-07-21, 09:09 PM
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93 Rockhopper single speed
not sure about the silver/grey bar tape but I get tired of always using black. Thinking about adding racks

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Old 10-08-21, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
so, you never noticed it before on this bike? i would guess if you're used to how it or other mtb's handle with flat bars, then it could be just that. mtb's aren't really geometrically designed for drop bars. so, your weight distribution changes going from flat bars to drops particularly at the front wheel. more of your weight is toward the front wheel and your sensitivity towards it's handling would be accentuated. and, weight distribution affects how front trail/wheel flop behaves
Never. Been riding it as it's shown for several years too. It and a 80-something Schwinn Premis. Well, the Maxxis DTH tires are a more recent addition, and then I mostly rode gravel after putting those on. Where I noticed the steer into corner feeling was on a bike path recently. The flat bar MTB in question is a early-mid 90s Tequesta. I see we have similar bikes.
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Old 10-09-21, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mattk42
Loving all the tan wall options showing up on the vintage drop bar MTBs. I went with the Maxxis DTH for mine. But the Billy Bonkers and the Gravel Kings look pretty sweet.

Here's my ride in its latest iteration (photo is from summer though). She's a pretty steady gravel road climber. The only thing I may change yet is the stem setup. Maybe doing a threadless stem adapter quill stem. Actually, how I go about that might depend on a recent observation I had of the steering behavior. I'd been riding a vintage flat bar MTB a bit on some single track trails and hadn't gotten out on the drop bar MTB much. First ride I took on it again, I felt a sensation like it wanted to steer into the corners. I can't recall noticing that phenomena before and I don't think I have on my road bike either (though, I haven't been riding it for a while either and not since I road the flat bar MTB more). Can it be something to do with stem height, or length? Or some combination of them?


Love your tail light! I need to figure out a tail light mount for my old Blackburn rack. All the lights I have strap to the seat post, which is useless when you put a bag on the rack.
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Old 10-09-21, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RichSPK
I need to figure out a tail light mount for my old Blackburn rack.
There used to be little alloy loops that fit over the back end of those racks for reflector mounting. You could probably use P-cllps to approximate one, or drill through the joint where the top loop and stay run together for an inch or so and bolt through there. I've done that.
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Old 10-09-21, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
There used to be little alloy loops that fit over the back end of those racks for reflector mounting. You could probably use P-cllps to approximate one, or drill through the joint where the top loop and stay run together for an inch or so and bolt through there. I've done that.
Yeah, I think the solution involves P-clips.
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Old 10-10-21, 04:13 AM
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Technically still not a MTB, but pretty close.

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Old 10-14-21, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wesmamyke
This fender setup is so clean. Are the pannier rail looking bits functional?
Yea the rack works well, the fenders are built sturdier than normal and are stiff enough to manage panniers as long as it isn't overloaded. I typically commute with about 6kg on each side at most and have no problems at all (rated up to 8kg on each side). Took a bit of time to install and I had to trim the end with a Dremel to fit the chainstay clearance, but happy with the results. You can find info on the fender/rack combo here https://www.hebie.de/en/protection/m...guards/alumee/

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Old 10-18-21, 08:54 PM
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this thread inspired a Drop Bar build, the candidates are a '94 Single Track 920 in Purple (love the color) and a '96 in Green. The Green fits better at 21" so its likely the one, the purple will either get moved on after it donates/swaps some of its better parts to the green (def the tan wall tires!) - or just become a family loaner/campground cruiser for the wife. I did put 40 miles on the purple before deciding its just too small. Unfortunate as its really nice and clean.

The only new parts I plan to buy for the Green are some Micronew 7 spd brifters. I have the 10 spd version on a recent build, and for the money - very happy. I think I have the rest of the part on hand which puts me well under $200 for the total build.

question - at 42-32-22, and a 11-28 cassette in 7 spds, seems to spin out on any kind of downhill , trade off is some insane low ratios for climbing which could come in handy on a trip we are planning to Colorado next summer - but would 48-38-28 be better for mostly road use? I'm an average, maybe improving, but def average cyclist. How would the 42-11+ combo be on a relatively flat rail trail such as the Katy Trail or Mickelson?
I ride a 50/34 11-28 set up mostly on my road bikes in my area. the 34/28 is enough for my toughest climbs (prob not tough to you hill climbers)

thanks for any input!




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Old 10-18-21, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by justcynn
I did put 40 miles on the purple before deciding its just too small. Unfortunate as its really nice and clean.
Dang! Too bad about that purple one being too small cause that color is SO GOOD!

Originally Posted by justcynn
question - at 42-32-22, and a 11-28 cassette in 7 spds, seems to spin out on any kind of downhill , trade off is some insane low ratios for climbing which could come in handy on a trip we are planning to Colorado next summer - but would 48-38-28 be better for mostly road use? I'm an average, maybe improving, but def average cyclist. How would the 42-11+ combo be on a relatively flat rail trail such as the Katy Trail or Mickelson?

I ride a 50/34 11-28 set up mostly on my road bikes in my area. the 34/28 is enough for my toughest climbs (prob not tough to you hill climbers)
I also ride 50/34 11-28 on my two newer bikes and good with 34/28 for the tougher climbs too. My vintage road bikes (mostly mid 80s tourers) vary just a bit, but all triples mostly 50/40/30 12-28, which I'm also happy with. I've done two Mountain Bike Drop Bar Conversions, one with 48/38/28 12-28 and the other with 46/36/26 12-28. Both bikes about the same year, build quality and components and I find myself liking the 46/36/26 better. Not sure I've ever even used the 26 granny gear so I guess the 46/36 combo is my sweet spot.
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Old 10-19-21, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by justcynn
this thread inspired a Drop Bar build, the candidates are a '94 Single Track 920 in Purple (love the color) and a '96 in Green. The Green fits better at 21" so its likely the one, the purple will either get moved on after it donates/swaps some of its better parts to the green (def the tan wall tires!) - or just become a family loaner/campground cruiser for the wife. I did put 40 miles on the purple before deciding its just too small.
Before you commit check the top tube lengths. Remember, on many mtn bikes the TTs are relatively longer than on road bikes so the purple bike may be fine once dropped and you're riding on the hoods. I'm 6' tall with 32" inseam. My conversion is a '95 Trek 850, 19" frame. It is very comfortable. Every day comfortable. Last summer I did a 100 mile ride on it, through the woods one day.

Are the stem diameters the same? Can you install your bar n stem set in each to get a feel before you ditch the purple bike. BTW! Yeah, great paint on the purple one.



This is the 850 on my Century ride thru the woods. That is probably 8" of seat post showing. The reach from the sit bones to the hoods is exactly the same as on all my road bikes. That's helped with fit. Good luck with your project.

Last edited by Prowler; 10-19-21 at 06:04 AM. Reason: added happy snap
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Old 10-19-21, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Prowler
Before you commit check the top tube lengths. Remember, on many mtn bikes the TTs are relatively longer than on road bikes so the purple bike may be fine once dropped and you're riding on the hoods. I'm 6' tall with 32" inseam. My conversion is a '95 Trek 850, 19" frame. It is very comfortable. Every day comfortable. Last summer I did a 100 mile ride on it, through the woods one day.

Are the stem diameters the same? Can you install your bar n stem set in each to get a feel before you ditch the purple bike. BTW! Yeah, great paint on the purple one.
good advice. Thank you. The top tube is def longer than my road bikes. Good point on riding on the hoods. I also think I have a riser stem that I could use and a longer seat post. I am 6í4 with a 34Ē inseam.

def gonna give it a shot. Both are nice bikes, but the purple is def nicer
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Old 10-20-21, 08:46 PM
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Just spent a few days scrolling from page 1. Like a number of others, I created an account specifically for this thread. Looking forward to checking out more cool conversions and posting my own once I get to 10 posts.
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Old 10-29-21, 06:25 PM
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Is this too much stem? The stem it had on it was garbage and this was the only 25.4 stem I had. Its a 135! Riding the hoods, the hands would be right at or maybe just past the front hub. I'm thinking of building it up just to see what the ride characteristics are like.
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Old 10-30-21, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by degan

Is this too much stem? The stem it had on it was garbage and this was the only 25.4 stem I had. Its a 135! Riding the hoods, the hands would be right at or maybe just past the front hub. I'm thinking of building it up just to see what the ride characteristics are like.
If that is the reach you need, then it too much stem.
...it also probably means the bike's geometey isn't ideal for you, but many of these bikes fit that reality.
If the Stem is being used simply because it's what you have, maybe pick up a different one and some 26.0 or 31.8mm bars.
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Old 10-30-21, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by degan
Is this too much stem? The stem it had on it was garbage and this was the only 25.4 stem I had. Its a 135! Riding the hoods, the hands would be right at or maybe just past the front hub. I'm thinking of building it up just to see what the ride characteristics are like.
With all that seatpost, your stem may work fine. I would put some cranks and pedals on it and spin a bit before going any further with the build.
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