1981 Sekai 2400
#1
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From: Seattle, WA
1981 Sekai 2400 [Phase I complete]
UPDATE
Phase I complete. See post #23 for the images.
Probably spent a tad bit more than some of you would have, but I think I got a fair deal.
Here he is, just the way I picked him up. Sans the brake lever covers.





Phase I complete. See post #23 for the images.
Probably spent a tad bit more than some of you would have, but I think I got a fair deal.
Here he is, just the way I picked him up. Sans the brake lever covers.





Last edited by uRabbit; 08-03-12 at 06:25 PM.
#5
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From: Seattle, WA
Well, my fellow Idahoan, those may yet be a ways off. Other than a good cleaning and bar tape, this cycle really doesn't need much else. I won't be cleaning it until I finish the wife's bike, probably. And that needs the brake pads put on and two new cables and housing, and our new pedals coming in the mail. I know, big whoop for a lot of you.
But I'm a newbie, I work 45 hours per week, have a 1-1/2 year old, and the wife cooks from scratch. So, as you can imagine, I'm not one with a lot of free time. But I should be able to do it this weekend. If I don't sneak off on a ride. 
Oh, I did just remember that the front brakes were not stoppy enough for me, so I need to examine that.
Cant wait to see what I do with this cycle!
But I'm a newbie, I work 45 hours per week, have a 1-1/2 year old, and the wife cooks from scratch. So, as you can imagine, I'm not one with a lot of free time. But I should be able to do it this weekend. If I don't sneak off on a ride. 
Oh, I did just remember that the front brakes were not stoppy enough for me, so I need to examine that.
Cant wait to see what I do with this cycle!
#6
Urabbit,
Great score, that has a lot of potential. Nice components. I'm sure RaleighSport will be chiming in soon , get that serial # ready. Clean it when you can, ride when possible. Good idea on the new pedals tho, those have to go !
Regards
Great score, that has a lot of potential. Nice components. I'm sure RaleighSport will be chiming in soon , get that serial # ready. Clean it when you can, ride when possible. Good idea on the new pedals tho, those have to go !
Regards
#7
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From: Seattle, WA

The pedals that are coming in are to replace our Suburbans' block pedals. I have yet to decide what to put on the Sekai. It is a good idea, however, for me to finish the wife's bike before even starting this one.
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-19-12 at 08:50 AM.
#8
Hogosha Sekai

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
Likes: 26
From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
I have been silently monitoring this thread, as I had a hand in the acquisition and have gotten almost all the details/cool info pre the thread.
#10
Hogosha Sekai

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
Likes: 26
From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
#11
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From: Seattle, WA
Alright gentleman.
Will these work with my ST's? (I only ask because I don't know the difference between brands and cable ends.)
Trying to figure out the colour scheme. This yellow, this blue, and this green match the logo colours, so those are options...
Will these work with my ST's? (I only ask because I don't know the difference between brands and cable ends.)
Trying to figure out the colour scheme. This yellow, this blue, and this green match the logo colours, so those are options...
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-22-12 at 06:02 PM.
#12
I think they make two dimensions on the housings, and the larger looks a little
more authentic with the older stuff, but either works well.
Make certain you use brake housing for the brakes and shifter housing for the
shifter cables, otherwise it's as close to easy as this ever gets.
#13
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From: Seattle, WA
What's your question ? Will jagwire cables and housings work with your brakes ? .....sure.
I think they make two dimensions on the housings, and the larger looks a little
more authentic with the older stuff, but either works well.
Make certain you use brake housing for the brakes and shifter housing for the
shifter cables, otherwise it's as close to easy as this ever gets.
I think they make two dimensions on the housings, and the larger looks a little
more authentic with the older stuff, but either works well.
Make certain you use brake housing for the brakes and shifter housing for the
shifter cables, otherwise it's as close to easy as this ever gets.
I have only used the Bell universal cables (that come with all of the cable ends and housing). There aren't specific housings for brakes or derailleurs, so I have not had to worry about that. Now, I do? Haha. Is this just a Jagwire thing, or a technology that I'm not yet accustomed to?
Last edited by uRabbit; 07-22-12 at 06:11 PM.
#14
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 378
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From: Oslo, Norway
Bikes: 1951 Armand Carlsen, 1969 DBS Deluxe, 1949 Diamant, 1978 DBS Winner Tandem, 1955 Herkules... to infinity and beyond!
I have only used the Bell universal cables (that come with all of the cable ends and housing). There aren't specific housings for brakes or derailleurs, so I have not had to worry about that. Now, I do? Haha. Is this just a Jagwire thing, or a technology that I'm not yet accustomed to?
#15
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Nampa Idaho
Bikes: 76' Centrurion Pro-Tour, 86' Specialized Rock Hopper, 88' Centurion Iron Man, 89' Bruce Gordon "Hikari", 95' Rock Hopper Ultra.
Well, my fellow Idahoan, those may yet be a ways off. Other than a good cleaning and bar tape, this cycle really doesn't need much else. I won't be cleaning it until I finish the wife's bike, probably. And that needs the brake pads put on and two new cables and housing, and our new pedals coming in the mail. I know, big whoop for a lot of you.
But I'm a newbie, I work 45 hours per week, have a 1-1/2 year old, and the wife cooks from scratch. So, as you can imagine, I'm not one with a lot of free time. But I should be able to do it this weekend. If I don't sneak off on a ride. 
Oh, I did just remember that the front brakes were not stoppy enough for me, so I need to examine that.
Cant wait to see what I do with this cycle!
But I'm a newbie, I work 45 hours per week, have a 1-1/2 year old, and the wife cooks from scratch. So, as you can imagine, I'm not one with a lot of free time. But I should be able to do it this weekend. If I don't sneak off on a ride. 
Oh, I did just remember that the front brakes were not stoppy enough for me, so I need to examine that.
Cant wait to see what I do with this cycle!
Cheers,
Chris
#16
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From: Seattle, WA
Oh Man, I so know where your coming from! I have four teenagers at home and work 50+ hrs a week...I have learned to be be patient with my bike projects ;-) And I too have to make sure my wife's bike gets painted and upgraded before I start another project! Oh and my Sekai probably won't get touched for at least two yrs....
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
#18
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From: Seattle, WA
Stay tuned! The build is nearly complete (at least, in its first stage). 
Just waiting for bar tape to get here, and trying to figure out a brake cable issue.
I think it's going along quite splendidly for my first rebuild/replace.

Just waiting for bar tape to get here, and trying to figure out a brake cable issue.
I think it's going along quite splendidly for my first rebuild/replace.
#19
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Seattle, WA
By the way, I just wanted to post here, what I have already posted in Mechanics. Here it is:
---
Not sure exactly what it is called, but you can see it in the below image.
I was testing my front brake (running new cable and housing), when SNAP, the cable pops right out of the doo-hickie that it routes through in the lever.
In the following image, the cable end is still in the larger hole. However, just a little bit more pressure, and it pops right out.

My theories:
1) Cable housing is too long. (Here is my cable routing.)
2) Cable router is backwards (channel should face up when properly installed, rather than down).
3) Hood needs trimmed just below the lever, as it touches.
4) I am experiencing a previously unknown phenomenon.
Rear brake (fine)

Front brake (acting up)
---
Not sure exactly what it is called, but you can see it in the below image.
I was testing my front brake (running new cable and housing), when SNAP, the cable pops right out of the doo-hickie that it routes through in the lever.
In the following image, the cable end is still in the larger hole. However, just a little bit more pressure, and it pops right out.

My theories:
1) Cable housing is too long. (Here is my cable routing.)
2) Cable router is backwards (channel should face up when properly installed, rather than down).
3) Hood needs trimmed just below the lever, as it touches.
4) I am experiencing a previously unknown phenomenon.
Rear brake (fine)

Front brake (acting up)
#21
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From: Seattle, WA
It turns out that the cable popping out was just a bi-product of the real issue. Somehow, I had not pulled the cable tight enough before anchoring down. It may have been that I was distracted by a fray in the cable.
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