If this what I think it is I kind of want it for the kit.


1982 Pro Miyata Vintage Racing bike: True 12 speed, 20",still a good racing bike, all original parts. Extra wheels (front and back) 3 extra tires. Comes with the original tire pump and water bottle. $200 other website adds asking twice as much for same bike. Call 607 754 7920, I will not reply to e-mails asking if I still have the bike

canny for $150 is a very good deal imo - at least in my area

OK, it's a day later. Have you picked up the Pro Miyata yet?

That Pro Miyata is a steal, but it's too nice for a beater fixie conversion. That Univega is too large to be a 21" frame and a Peugeot is too french.

Go for the 112 if it fits you. It should be a later model, quality low-mid frame for a conversion.

Excellent frame for a fixed gear. Light, aggressive geometry, and good components.
Very snappy performance, and the condition lends itself to a banger, in my opinion.
You can easily sell the shifters, FD and RD (lots of market for 6-sp indexed, in general)
The front caliper, light, and good for a single pivot, will stop you, but not like a dual-pivot.

The wheels, if you plan to jump curbs, etc, will not hold true, as they're pretty light.
If you true and tension them, they should be OK. Tire clearance? you're probably at 25c max, 28c if lucky.

If I was gonna fix-gear that, I'd probably eschew the "kit" and get one of those screw-type tensioners you can add by drilling a hole on the dropout and bolting on. Then I'd make sure the wheels were "right," add some 25C cross tires, and put flat bars on it and keep both brakes, use some $10 Avid levers. Get a master link for the chain or a new chain with one. Keep the crankset, run the small ring with single-speed bolts on the rings, or washers. Add a cheap seat post, a saddle, and some black grips, yellow housing from China.

Figure spend $60 on a rear wheel, $50 max on everything else, sell the shifters, FD, RD, brake levers for at least that offset, and ride it.

I have sent IM frames to a messenger friend in Quebec, and he says they're great urban attack vehicles.

With horizontal dropouts, you don't need any kind of chain tensioner.

It is quality. Both the Miyata and this Centurion are fine examples of Japanese frames. Find one that fits you and don't butcher it. I personally, like a lot of other people on this forum, would leave the Miyata geared as it is already. Don't mess with a good setup just to have a 'fixie'. If you must have a fixed wheel bike, buy the Centurion if it fits.

EDIT: The Pro Miyata not the 112.

I'm a big centurian fan, so I vote for the dave scott. You could always locktite a cog and bottom bracket ring on, stick with the inner chainwheel as Robbietunes suggests and have the thing running for $35 without selling any old parts.

BTW i rode fixed gear before it was cool and I'll probably ride fixed gear after its cool. It still is the most reliable and safest bike to run in a Minnesota winter.
OTOH, for dead reliable transportation bikes, I'll probably just ride the parts off whatever I'm riding and singlespeed the thing out.

Current commuter and all-rounder is an '86 Centurion Elite RS with the original crankset and front derailleur, Campy Veloce 9-speed shifters, ultegra 8 speed rear d, SRAM 9 speed cluster and a shiftmate to make it work. Brakes are Campy veloce from just before skeleton brakes. Saddle is 70's Wrights. Bars and stem are very pretty 70's japanese pieces. The best of the 70's 80's 90's and 00's