Removing galvanized layer on spokes
#1
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Removing galvanized layer on spokes
I have a wheel-set that have non SS spokes and i would like to know if there is a diy way in removing the galvanized/cadmium plated later on these spokes.
Although the rust have been removed there is under the magnifying glass still rough spots to be seen that show when i polish them.
Now the easiest way is off course to replace them, but for reasons of authenticity i rather would deal with these the best way i can.
Even now after i polished some of them they are near on par regarding the shine with rvs ones i have in other wheels, but the spots bugs me.
So is there a way to have this layer removed and than polish the steel as is.
I will be used in summer weather for the occasional ride just for fun so no all year around.
Although the rust have been removed there is under the magnifying glass still rough spots to be seen that show when i polish them.
Now the easiest way is off course to replace them, but for reasons of authenticity i rather would deal with these the best way i can.
Even now after i polished some of them they are near on par regarding the shine with rvs ones i have in other wheels, but the spots bugs me.
So is there a way to have this layer removed and than polish the steel as is.
I will be used in summer weather for the occasional ride just for fun so no all year around.
#3
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Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Use bronze wool and a some light oil to polish them up. However you will be doing it for the rest of your life. Bare steel rusts, quickly.
Aaron
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#4
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Can i remove with bronze wool the galvanized (or what the heck it may be) this layer?
I have allready polished them up with cotton buffing wheels and that works it was just the spots that irritated me so now i want to remove the zinc or whatever layer.
That is the main q'n.
I have allready polished them up with cotton buffing wheels and that works it was just the spots that irritated me so now i want to remove the zinc or whatever layer.
That is the main q'n.
#5
If you're concerned about authenticity, then you shouldn't polish them. Galvanized spokes aren't supposed to be shiney. I have one set of old PX10 wheels with galvanized spokes. I cleaned them up with Brasso and then waxed them when I first got them. I don't think I'll ever do that again. It's just too much work. They're on a beater, anyway.
Galvanized means there is a layer of zinc on them to prevent rust. You can buy cold galvanizing compound in a spray can that contains particles of zinc. I have a can, but I've never tried it on spokes and I don't remember where I got it. I've used it inside bottom brackets after cleaning out rust.
Galvanized means there is a layer of zinc on them to prevent rust. You can buy cold galvanizing compound in a spray can that contains particles of zinc. I have a can, but I've never tried it on spokes and I don't remember where I got it. I've used it inside bottom brackets after cleaning out rust.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 09-17-12 at 10:45 AM.
#6
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You have a point there which i won't argue, see it as a enthusiastic youngster polishing up his/her pride where the manufacturer left behind due to costs reasons.
#7
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Get a piece of aluminum foil. Crumple it up, shiny side out. Rub away and watch the spokes take on a new luster. Of course, oxidation can still have its way with the spokes, but they will look and feel much better once alloy rubbed.
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#8
MIKE is my name!

Joined: Mar 2012
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Bikes: hans lutz, , puch mistral ultima,2x Austro Daimler Smoked chrome Ultima,Austro Daimler Mixte,Austro Daimler 531 mixte, flying arrow,F Moser,
Im in a situation that I have a perfect straight wheelset with galvanized spokes and slight rust.
for 20 bucks a wheel I can get stainless double butted.
I can get new galvanized for much less.
I can lace up and true a wheel in less then 2 hours and all my problems are gone,
during that process I can polish the hubs and rims and be very proud of my work.
wheel building is not so difficult, its the fear of building them that what most are afraid of.
I trued many a taco(wheels that nasty kids jumped on) to acceptable condition, then I had one wheel that was too far gone- that was my first rim replacement- I was very proud I finally learned this
"right of passage" acheavement, I have since built over 4 wheels and I get faster and better.
watch some vids in youtube,find a straight wheel with no value- take it apart and put it back together
you will be very very proud.
mike
for 20 bucks a wheel I can get stainless double butted.
I can get new galvanized for much less.
I can lace up and true a wheel in less then 2 hours and all my problems are gone,
during that process I can polish the hubs and rims and be very proud of my work.
wheel building is not so difficult, its the fear of building them that what most are afraid of.
I trued many a taco(wheels that nasty kids jumped on) to acceptable condition, then I had one wheel that was too far gone- that was my first rim replacement- I was very proud I finally learned this
"right of passage" acheavement, I have since built over 4 wheels and I get faster and better.
watch some vids in youtube,find a straight wheel with no value- take it apart and put it back together
you will be very very proud.
mike
#9
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Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
I don't even have a supplier for galvanized spokes anymore. I pay about $16-$17usd for a wheel's worth of straight gauge stainless steel custom cut to length. I still have bikes with the galvanized, the aluminum foil trick works well if the galvanizing isn't too far gone. Depending on the original quality of the spokes they may not have been too smooth to start with. I have had some that were rough enough to cut a finger on if you weren't careful.
Aaron
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#10
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In my experience, aluminum foils with some WD40 adds a bit of lustre to the galvanized spokes, but won't remove any spots. Your results may vary, but I've never been able to get rid of "age spots" on galvanized spokes.
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'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#11
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Well i have changed the strategy on my bike and the remark of Grand Bois kept me thinking and i decided to do easy on the polishing and that way i can keep the spokes.
After reading the reply's i have treated some of them with the alu foil method (bizar, but it works) and will finish of with linseed oil to give it some protective layer against further rusting.
So far everybody thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge it's much appreciated.
After reading the reply's i have treated some of them with the alu foil method (bizar, but it works) and will finish of with linseed oil to give it some protective layer against further rusting.
So far everybody thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge it's much appreciated.
#12
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Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Man, that sounds like a lot of work.
Puchfinland is on the right track. Just ride them until they are starting to pop and replace them.
Puchfinland is on the right track. Just ride them until they are starting to pop and replace them.
#13
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Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
I'd tend not to disturb the surface layer any more, behind trying to seal it and maintaining the sealant. There's a lot of tension in those spokes, and those little pits all are points where stress risers can form.
#14
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
#16
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So after a while and lot's of experiences wiser i must conclude however that the spokes where beyond saving so now i must have replacements.
The size is a bit of a problem at least here so here i go
15/16/15 gauge (1,8-1,6-1,8 mm) and 304 mm long.
I prefer SS, but than again it's all depending on what is available and where.
Can any of you enthusiasts help out.
Thanks in advance.
The size is a bit of a problem at least here so here i go
15/16/15 gauge (1,8-1,6-1,8 mm) and 304 mm long.
I prefer SS, but than again it's all depending on what is available and where.
Can any of you enthusiasts help out.
Thanks in advance.
#17
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From: finland,baltimore
Bikes: hans lutz, , puch mistral ultima,2x Austro Daimler Smoked chrome Ultima,Austro Daimler Mixte,Austro Daimler 531 mixte, flying arrow,F Moser,
ebay- there is a guy who will sell you a complete package of exactly the spokes you need,
pspiak@roadrunner.com "paul/ct"
I purchased from him before.
do remember the front spokes are one length,
the rear are 2 different lengths left and right
so you have 3 different lengths!
if you wanted straight 2.0 stainless used there are plenty wheels that have these, i have plenty..
pspiak@roadrunner.com "paul/ct"
I purchased from him before.
do remember the front spokes are one length,
the rear are 2 different lengths left and right
so you have 3 different lengths!
if you wanted straight 2.0 stainless used there are plenty wheels that have these, i have plenty..






