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Originally Posted by gaucho777
(Post 14750563)
^But how would you get the spokes into the drive-side hub holes with the FW in the way?
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^Oh, gotcha. I should have thought of that.
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Originally Posted by Metacortex
Am I the only one who uses an impact gun for removing freewheels? It just works so well...
Actually, between my really large adjustable crescent wrench and my extra long socket wrench, I've never met a freewheel I was unable to remove.
Originally Posted by realestvin7
(Post 14750173)
I've got a freewheel that I need to remove from a hub that someone cut the spokes on. What a genius move on their part.:notamused:
How would one go about resolving this problem?
Originally Posted by realestvin7
(Post 14750272)
I would then screw through all the openings in the flange and tightly sandwich the board and the plywood together as tightly as possible. Mount the block of wood in a vise on a sturdy workbench and go at the freewheel with the correct tool. You would need to have room to mount the QR skewer, so keep that in mind in fashioning the wooden block. It might be that the release lever needs to be removed from the QR. Just my 2 cents. |
I recommend that if you want to respond in this thread, don't read anyone else's responses. This way, you can write your response without noticing that it duplicates previous responses.
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Originally Posted by realestvin7
(Post 14750173)
I've got a freewheel that I need to remove from a hub that someone cut the spokes on. What a genius move on their part.:notamused:
How would one go about resolving this problem? |
Originally Posted by Metacortex
(Post 14750507)
The best way to remove a freewheel is to use the proper removal tool having a hex end* combined with one of these: http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com...ools/1-2-drive
http://fileserver.ingersollrand.com/...OB_HiRes_m.jpg When using an impact gun with the wheel in a horizontal position I haven't had to set the wheel in a vise or use a skewer or any other device except the weight of the gun to hold the remover down. One or two bursts of the gun and the freewheel comes right off without any damage to the notches or splines. While I haven't done it yet, I'm fairly positive that using an impact gun I could easily take the freewheel off of a hub where the spokes were cut (with no rim for leverage). Am I the only one who uses an impact gun for removing freewheels? It just works so well... *By "hex end" I mean one that would be compatible with a socket. While most removal tools have this, some older ones do not. For example, when removing the Schwinn Model F2/F3 freewheels I would use this tool and not this one. While both fit the same freewheel splines, the latter would be incompatible with the socket in my impact gun and thus useless to me. |
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 14750636)
What I would try in this instance is to fashion a block of wood that has a hole drilled in the center to accommodate the axle in order that the flange would fit flush against the wood. I'd then take a piece(s) of plywood to fit on the inside of the flange and around the center shaft of the hub.
Just my 2 cents. Your plan is immobilize the non-drive side flange. And you are applying the usual freewheel-removing torque to the drive-side. Will this distort or even break the hub shell at the waist? I read once where someone built a wheel in which the spokes on one flange were laced up in the wrong position - all one over from where they should have been. When the wheelbuilder started to apply the tension, and the wheel started to look reasonably true, he discovered to his horror that the lettering on the hub shell had spiralled. So basically the flanges had rotated relative to each other due to the spoke torque. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 14750636)
Metacortex, not many of us have a shop with an air compressor and air impact wrench.
Actually, between my really large adjustable crescent wrench and my extra long socket wrench, I've never met a freewheel I was unable to remove. What I would try in this instance is to fashion a block of wood that has a hole drilled in the center to accommodate the axle in order that the flange would fit flush against the wood. I'd then take a piece(s) of plywood to fit on the inside of the flange and around the center shaft of the hub. I would then screw through all the openings in the flange and tightly sandwich the board and the plywood together as tightly as possible. Mount the block of wood in a vise on a sturdy workbench and go at the freewheel with the correct tool. You would need to have room to mount the QR skewer, so keep that in mind in fashioning the wooden block. It might be that the release lever needs to be removed from the QR. Just my 2 cents. I think this is simple and brilliant. Simply brilliant. I saved this Normandy hub and Cyclo Competition freewheel from my PX-10 these 30 odd years. (since the first bad crash destroyed that Mavic rim.) Now, there is hope to reuse them both. Thanks! |
Some creative ideas in this thread. I'll be interested to see if and how these freewheels come off. :thumb:
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Just guessing it's a Tipo hub, not from any info in this thread, but just because I looked at your history.
The freewheel is shot, you've put hours into it already, and a Tipo hub isn't that expensive. Cut your losses, literally (as in spokes). Salvage what you can, buy a display case from Kurt and look at it forever. Ignore all of this if it isn't a Tipo hub and a buggered freewheel. I would work harder on a Record level hub. |
Originally Posted by teetime
(Post 14751450)
Just guessing it's a Tipo hub, not from any info in this thread, but just because I looked at your history.
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Originally Posted by lostarchitect
(Post 14751800)
Or, also, because he says it's a tipo hub in the thread. :rolleyes:
Trash it, then. |
As has been said, ...
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 14750911)
I recommend that if you want to respond in this thread, don't read anyone else's responses. This way, you can write your response without noticing that it duplicates previous responses.
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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 14751848)
As has been said, ...
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Originally Posted by teetime
(Post 14751450)
Just guessing it's a Tipo hub, not from any info in this thread, but just because I looked at your history.
The freewheel is shot, you've put hours into it already, and a Tipo hub isn't that expensive. Cut your losses, literally (as in spokes). Salvage what you can, buy a display case from Kurt and look at it forever. Ignore all of this if it isn't a Tipo hub and a buggered freewheel. I would work harder on a Record level hub. Well, at this point it is bit of my will against the indignities the bikes has had (took weeks to get the seatpost out)....and I am cheap. I figure if I can get the freewheel off I can put a more modern one on for a lot cheaper than rebuilding the wheel and faster. wheel seems to spin wheel and is true.....of course if things go on par with rest of this build I will take the hub apart and find out it has hanta virus laden rodent poo instead of ball bearings. |
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 14751891)
Dang Tom! You are certainly in a surley mood! :p Need a healthy shot of lemon chello? :thumb:
If you have a freewheel screwed onto a hub with no spokes or wheels, I believe you can spoke it up to a wheel without tensioning it. Then remove the freewheel the normal way. This assumes the freewheel's removal interface is not damaged. |
Originally Posted by teetime
(Post 14751834)
Missed post #6. It is not in the OP.
Trash it, then. |
Originally Posted by lostarchitect
(Post 14751999)
Spend 30 minutes on this and it'll be off.
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Die grinder + cutoff wheel and cut through the entire freewheel. Quick work. Make sure you don't cut into the hub.
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Originally Posted by teetime
(Post 14751834)
Missed post #6. It is not in the OP.
Trash it, then. Even if it wasn't a part the OP wanted to keep, the ideas generously offered here are worth filing away for future use, or just practiced on older equipment in case something really $$, or near and dear to one's heart needs to be fixed. :) (Sometimes I like to take something apart and put it back together just to see what's inside and how it works. :p ) |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 14751914)
Just rolling my eyes. Not severely ticked off or anything.
If you have a freewheel screwed onto a hub with no spokes or wheels, I believe you can spoke it up to a wheel without tensioning it. Then remove the freewheel the normal way. This assumes the freewheel's removal interface is not damaged. Well, I'll answer "yes". Spokes can only be fitted on the open side of the hub. If one were to lace spokes to a rim on only one side of the hub, that would not provide fixed tension to remove the freewheel the normal way. Or, would it? |
Originally Posted by RosyRambler
(Post 14752167)
I find it far more interesting to read the suggestions and solutions that get posted to questions like these.
... (Sometimes I like to take something apart and put it back together just to see what's inside and how it works. :p ) |
Originally Posted by Peugeotlover
(Post 14752314)
If one were to lace spokes to a rim on only one side of the hub, that would not provide fixed tension to remove the freewheel the normal way. Or, would it?
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by Peugeotlover
(Post 14752314)
Is it not a problem to get the spokes past the freewheel side of the hub? The cogs are in the way.
Well, I'll answer "yes". Spokes can only be fitted on the open side of the hub. If one were to lace spokes to a rim on only one side of the hub, that would not provide fixed tension to remove the freewheel the normal way. Or, would it? You can over-come this by using Spectra or Vectran cordage instead of spokes and weave it in and out of the drive side flanges. You could use "Emergency Spokes" for example. Or get a hold of 1/32" Vectran or Spectra cordage from a marine goods supplier. Weave said cordage in and out of the flanges and through the spoke holes in your hoop. This kind of cordage can be hugely useful for various survival and emergency purposes, so worth having a few tens of yards around anyway. |
cudak888 and Drakonchik: Thank you for the replies.
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