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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 14750911)
I recommend that if you want to respond in this thread, don't read anyone else's responses. This way, you can write your response without noticing that it duplicates previous responses.
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the Pastor Bob method worked. broke one pin punch. and it takes forever. the angle is awkward and even when after the intial movement started I needed to keep using the punch until the very end. YMMV
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I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel). I took the axle out abnd dremeled the freewheel body to make the notches deeper and sharper, and was eventually able to break it free with the freewheel puller.
Whew! |
I *do* feel compelled to point out that 'Tipo' simply translates as 'type.' The hubs are Nuovo Tipos, "New Type."
Thank you for your consideration. |
One more idea. I've seen a plumbing tool for gripping the INSIDE of a pipe and turning it (wish I had one when I re-plumbed 14 radiators, I tell you), hex head on a shaft with two slightly-non-concentric knurled cylinders that "jam" against the inside of the pipe for grip. No idea if any of the available sizes match the inside of the freewheel area inboard of the removal-tool area or if there's enough depth to let this tool worth, but I thought I'd toss it out there.
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Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 14768346)
I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel).
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
(Post 14768113)
the Pastor Bob method worked. broke one pin punch. and it takes forever. the angle is awkward and even when after the intial movement started I needed to keep using the punch until the very end. YMMV
Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 14768346)
I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel). I took the axle out and dremeled the freewheel body to make the notches deeper and sharper, and was eventually able to break it free with the freewheel puller.
Whew! So two different C&V members used two different methods to remove stuck freewheels! :thumb: Bravos all around!
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 14768952)
Did you remove the outer cog (or two) before you tried the pin tool? The Regina freewheel body was originally designed for a 4-cog cluster, so it is quite narrow. As five, six and even seven cogs became common, the face became quite recessed below the level of the cogs.
Sachs freewheels are a good example of a deep face under the top cog, which is true of their 6, 7 and 8 speed models. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...edsideview.jpg |
Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
(Post 14751091)
I like this. However, has anyone tested if the hub shell would twist/distort on the old narrow-waisted rear hub shells?
Your plan is immobilize the non-drive side flange. And you are applying the usual freewheel-removing torque to the drive-side. Will this distort or even break the hub shell at the waist? |
Originally Posted by Captain Blight
(Post 14768438)
I *do* feel compelled to point out that 'Tipo' simply translates as 'type.' The hubs are Nuovo Tipos, "New Type."
Thank you for your consideration. |
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