Hi! I don't know much about bikes. I inherited an old Motobecane Super Mirage from a former roommate and finally began commuting (2.8 miles each way) to work in Boston about two weeks ago. I probably haven't ridden this much since I was a teenager and I'm 30 now. I forgot how much fun riding bikes was!

I've looked around the internet a bit and found one (as a fixie) with similar coloring but not much information on it. It has 2040 tubing, ten speeds, SunTour Vx, Weinmann Vainqueur 610, etc., with everything all original when I got it (I think? except maybe the tires?). From what I've found, it sounds like this is late 70s, maybe?



Some things I've done so far:
The faux leather handlebars were rubbing off and making everything black so I removed those and replaced with shellac'd cotton grips. I took off the horizontal levers (are these what people call suicide levers?) and tried to squeeze some Dia-Compe non-aero hoods on, but the fit isn't that great. Any advice for the hoods? There was a lot of friction in the rear brake so I replaced the brake cables with VO metallic ones. The original saddle was looking a bit worse for the wear (and not super comfy anyway) so I switched that out. The pedals had weird plastic toe-holds so I removed those. I replaced the rear brake pads with salmon Kool-Stops, which squeaked like hell for the first week but seem OK now. And I replaced the chain.

Problems?
I'm still not in love with the rear brake. I tend to ride on the hoods and I feel like I have to press a bit too hard. Maybe changing the angle would correct this? Probably replacing the brake levers entirely would be a good option at some point.

Shifting is OK. The first time I got on the bike, the chain popped off right off and the derailleur was bent. So I bent this back and it seems OK now. I'm not sure if all the angles are perfectly ideal though.

There is also a bit of play in the wheels. Would replacing the wheels be a good idea at some point? This seems like it might be the most expensive upgrade but also potentially have the most impact on the ride.

What should I do with this old fellow? What would you do?

Cheers!

Alot of times when i get brake noise/squeal, if i just clean the rim off real good it usually helps. i use dish soap and and the scrubby side of a dish sponge. You are right about the wheels, they are a huge part of the ride and they they can be expensive! it depends on whether you want to buy new stuff or dont mind getting used/ older less expensive parts. i guess that depends on what you're trying to build it for, utility, commuting, for fun, or versatility even, etc. nice bike, try to keep fun in it whatever you build it for.

Thanks for the brake tip, will try that if it gets bad again.

I'm not looking to spend -too- much, but since I got it for free, I don't feel too bad about putting a hundred or two into it over the next 6-12 months or so. Since I am a newbie at city riding, I want to take my time with it and see how my use evolves. I know these bikes aren't all that exceptional and I could probably get a little bit of a better bike for around the same money I'll spend upgrading it, but then I'd probably miss out on some learning along the way. Plus I think these old steel French bikes have a lot of beauty/character.

Still, better than 9/10 rides will be <5 miles, I think, just commuting.

If I could do it cheaply, I'd lean toward repairing the wheels myself (I think replacing the hubs? is this a crazy/difficult/expensive idea? the rims are still true). I'm also not against replacing the wheels entirely, either with new 27" steel or alloy (is this also a bad idea? lighter wheels on a bike like this? do they have 27" alloy wheels for vintage bikes or would it be better to go to 700c)?

Those wheels look like alloy already so I would not replace them. What do you mean by play in the wheels? Sounds like you may need to just rebuild the hubs. Not that difficult and only requires new bearings, grease and some cone wrenches.

By play I meant a little uneven lateral movement in the hubs. I had a guy in a shop take a look at it; he tightened things up but mentioned that there was probably a little damage to the... possibly bearings and/or cones?... and that it might not stay tightened up. I've noticed a little bit of a shake in the front wheel when I'm riding fast.

If the cones are damaged, I'd probably need to replace those too, eh? Or is it more common for the bearings to go?

I think you would get a LOT more braking power by replacing your brake levers. If you have levers that are set up for turkey/suicide/horizontal extensions, I have found that they don't work as well with them removed (which I think you were right to do). They also are a sign of a lower quality lever. If you want a lot of stopping power, search eBay for a nice set of vintage brake levers. (suntour superbe, mafac, modolo, etc) and get the aforementioned Kool stop pads. It'll be around $30-$60 depending on what king of deals you find.

Then disassemble/clean/lube your center pull calipers. Spend a night doing this and dialing them in, you will be completely shocked and thrilled by the difference.

You'll need to take the hub apart and inspect to see what is worn. Sounds like the shop didn't inspect just adjusted.

I'm glad I decided to stop lurking. Very helpful advice, everyone--thanks.

Here's some good info.
https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

Slippery slope you are on. I started with a Super Mirage a few years back and it was a gateway into an obsession. Throw that bike into the Charles and get a Wal-Mart bike before it is too late.

I knowww--I have been reading and thinking and tinkering an obscene amount of time over the last few weeks (I had bike dreams last night). Already freely sliding.

Unless you're really tied to having non-aero brake levers, a cheap set of modern aero levers will make a world of difference. You can get XLC or Tektro levers for around $20 and the improvement will be a revelation.

I would get the existing brakes set up nicely before starting to replace parts. You will probably find the braking is fine.

How to do it – the long, detailed version is to get on the Sheldon Brown site and start reading. For example here https://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html Or, to go to the Park Tools site and read their tutorials. The quick and dirty version is:
- Buy Koolstop salmon (orange) pads that fit your brakes (I guess you’ve already done that for the rear) and a set of stainless steel brake cables and the cable ends.
- Clean rims as mentioned above.
- Replace pads and cable. Adjust pads so that they contact the rim squarely, don’t rub the tire (important!), and are toed-in (when front end of the pad first touches the rim, there is about a quarter coin’s thickness gap between the rear end of the pad and the rim). Adjust cable so that, without applying the brake, there is about a quarter’s thickness of a gap between the pads and the rim. If the rim is wavy enough to rub against the pads as it rotates, you will want to true the rims. Not hard, but leave it for another post.
- Squeeze the brake lever hard, as you might do for a panic stop. This stretches the cable and reveals if you failed to tighten the cable anchor nut enough. You may have to readjust the cable now. Crimp on the cable ends.
- Ride around, applying the brakes, they may squeal at first but should stop after a while, if not then add more toe-in.
- Get the right brake hoods, those aren’t.

You might also rotate the bars down a bit. If the bars are rotated up too much and you are on the hoods, then it is harder to apply force to the brake levers – they are at a bad angle for your fingers, if you see what I mean.

I second replacing the brake levers with modern aero ones. here is my moto super mirage I daily comute on and I love my tektro brakes. I also like the looks of the randoneur bar. it even mimics the Motobecane "M" a bit. I really prefer the clean look and function of aero cables as well as improved braking performance from less cable housing movemet and the Tektro's have a slick Quick release too.



Royal

Version 2.0:


Additions:
-Suntour Superbe brake levers
-New brake cables/housing
-Swapped out the front pads for Kool Stop salmons
-Got a VO Model 5 sprung leather saddle on clearance (a bit heavy but significantly more comfy for the rough roads on my commute).
-Added a rear rack for hauling things

I decided to go non-aero for the moment because I didn't want to rewrap the bars just yet. But braking is a lot better now. Thanks for the suggestions!

I'm trying to figure out a good regular grocery hauling solution still. A saddlebag/pannier/handlebar bag sort of a system is likely in store. I want to try rebuilding the wheels too at some point, though I might wait for a bad spell of weather in case I mess them up beyond quick repair.

+100.

If you still have the stock Weinmann Calipers and levers, you will find they're quite adequate especially with your alloy rims and Kool Stops. BUT as with any brake, they have to be set up correctly.
They only thing I would add to jyl's advice is to replace the housings as well as the cables - and finish the turkey-wing-ectomy while you are at it. (Take the (usually red) pivot out of the lever body and cut it flush at the shoulder, so they won't protrude into the hoods.)

You have a nice bike there - well worth some TLC!

Thanks! I replaced the housing as well as the cables. Instead of grinding down the red pivots, I decided to opt for a pair of used Suntour Superbes I found on eBay, which feel pretty solid. And I like the drilled-out look. The hoods fit pretty well now too. One of these evenings I'll try taking the calipers off of the bike, disassemble, wash, grease, etc. I noticed my back caliper is missing a nut and the bolt gradually works a bit loose on rides as a result. Anyone know what sizes these tended to run for Weinmann for replacements?

I don't know which nut you are referring to, but you should replace it now. It would not be a good thing if your caliper (or part of it) jams between the wheel and the frame. I'm pretty sure your local hardware would have something that will work.

I'm mostly happy with this at the moment. Some fenders will probably finish it off.


Obligatory glamour shot (Cambridge side of the Charles yesterday).

Beautiful. I have one that I got free and restored and I absolutely adore it. I have put a zillion miles on it, I love this bike because it's so gentle on my aging body. I am a bit jealous- yours is a 58 CM and those are pretty rare around here. (CT), Mine is a 62 CM. All the above advice is solid, as usual. I have swapped various wheels on mine, and I like the old Rigida rims better than the Arayas, (in 27") they seem to stay truer .

I sort of skimmed through this thread, I assume there's the usual lecture about the bottom bracket in there somewhere.

Yeah, get that hub play fixed, that can cause high speed wobbles on descents, and you don't want that. Make sure you lock that bike up real good. Not a bad idea to lock up the panniers and the saddle as well.

My Moto Super rides better than some of the other bikes I had that had "better" tubing. The way the french did their construction and geometry was so utterly kick-ass. Enjoy! very, very nice.

Thanks! Out of curiosity, how could you tell it was a 58cm? What is the issue with the bottom bracket? It seems pretty low to me. I haven't had pedal strike issues yet but there isn't a whole lot of clearance so I'm sure it'll happen sooner or later.

Headtube length. After a while you can tell a frame size from afar. I mean the bearings in the bottom bracket must be checked/cleaned re-lubed . Don't neglect this French bottom brackets can be a bit finicky to adjust, but if yours is an 80's model it might have a standard (BSA) threaded BB which is huge, 'cause then you can find replacement cups and a spindle more easily. Not a bad idea to open it up and look inside at the grease at least. Get it re-packed before the grit in there destroys everything. This is the "heart" of any bike. Huge threads have been written on this forum about french bottom brackets. . try searching that or search Sheldon Brown on that. My spindle may be worn, has some pitting. BTW if anybody has one for a Super M. please PM me. Velo Orange sells sealed bearing units for 50.00, not bad and my bud said they spin great. But it will fit only IF you're is actually (pre 80's ) french thread. The other guys here know all the details on exactly what year they switched threading, I could go on for days on this... If you start hearing a knocking/clunking sound it's probably the dreaded bottom bracket. Make sure your headset stays tight. The headsets on these are fine, it's just standard procedure.