rhm

+1

I have used those tires for years, on both straight-sided rims and hooked ones, and the only time a tire ever blew off a rim, it was a hooked rim.

There is really nothing wrong with straight sided rims. I won't say straight is better than hooked, but that while neither one is foolproof both are generally pretty good. If you are having trouble with a tire that won't seat properly on your rim, don't use that tire, at least not that rim. The tire may be defective, or damaged, or just a bad match to that particular rim. Bad luck, maybe, but there is nothing you can do to the rim to fix the tire.

SuperLJ

+1

Straight-sided rims and kelver bead tires don't mix, that's all. Get a set of steel-bead tires and you won't have anymore problems, ever. I've used Paselas for years on rims like yours with no problems, and thye're far and away the best deal in bike tires out there. The ones you need are available here for $14.95 a tire:

https://www.ebikestop.com/panaracer_p...?PARTNER=qbike

rootboy 

That's a nice price on Paselas. And if you decide you'd like a slightly narrower profile, I like the 1 1/8 version.

repechage

I think the original poster should design an extrusion profile with the "period correct" visible face and a hook bead internal section then have an extrusion house run some material for him and roll up some rims.
In general the minimum run is about 2,000 lbs., that die might cost under a grand.... about the same amount of sense as the original plan.

busdriver1959

Back in the 90s I had a rigid fork MTB. In order to get "suspension" I tried to run the tires at 15 psi. When I found that the casing would slide on the rim a rip the valve stem out, I used tubular tire cement and glued the tires to the rim. Worked great and I still have all of my teeth. The OP might want to consider this if he is worried obout the security of his current rim/tire setup. 3M makes an automotive glue called Fast Tack, part #8031. It's what I and many others use on tubulars. Cheap, easy to find on Amazon. Use a small bead on the tire and let it dry after mounting on the rim. Don't use so much that you end up with a PITA if you need to pull the tire off for a flat.

SuperLJ

I should have added that steel-bead Paselas (unlike the kevlar-bead TourGaurds) used to run 2-3mm underwidth, but the latest pair I bought ran true to size on a 22mm rim.

FrenchFit 

OP - Get some Sun M13 27" rims off amazon and relace the wheelsets onto new rims. That's your fix. https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Alloy-Rim-.../dp/B000AO7EXC

Zoku620

+1 wire bead Pasela. I run 27x1 1/8 with no problems at all.
I don't know if the JB would even work, I think it would break off when you mounted the tire. It also may have chemicals that will detoriate the tire itself, idk. 3m fast tack might help, but both are kinda messy to apply.

Zoku620

FWIW, Baby powder on your tubes let's them slide a bit inside the tire, helping prevent the valve stem from pulling at low pressures.

Bill Kapaun

They have complete wheels on Amazon for <$30.
Just make sure you pick "alloy" and not steel.

IF the OP wanted a better quality Sun Rim laced to his existing hubs, they would require new, shorter spokes.

dddd

The first thing I would do seems to be what no one else mentioned, so here goes.

If you can get the widest Velox tape available, 22mm iir, and trim it to a width such that it can be laid in the rim cavity floor in wall-to-wall fashion, the tire's blow-off rating will be very much improved.

Schwinn's steel rims wouldn't let a properly-seated tire blow off even at pressures used by tandem riders, and this was purely a function of having a somewhat elevated "floor diameter" (where the rim's inside floor meets the inside surface of each of it's sidewalls).

Only by having a bead diameter in excess of the rim's inside floor diameter can a wire-bead tire ever produce sufficient slack for the bead to creep up and over one of the rim's sidewalls, and a very small change in the floor diameter greatly affect's the amount of slack that a particular tire's bead will experience during inflation.

Proper inflation still depends on getting the tire straight initially, which was much more difficult with Schwinn's rims than with just about anyone else's rims, but selecting from various brands of 27" wire-beaded tires will do very little to improve either blow-off or difficulty in mounting.

Using a 1-1/4" tire instead of a 1-1/8" tire will also do very little to improve the situation, as the bigger tire will generate the same bead-tugging tension in the tire's casing at a lower pressure (inversely proportional to the tire casing diameter). Thus, the smaller tires will take a little more pressure, but nothing is gained since the smaller tire will need to be run at higher pressure.

Fitting the wide Velox tape might require accurate trimming to adjust it's width, and can be difficult to lay in straight inside many rims with a deeper central cavity, but this has to be a whole lot easier than anything having to do with epoxy or machining.

I did consider using epoxy myself at one time, but not to create a bead hook. Rather, if you can simply elevate the floor diameter even 1/2 millimeter, where the floor meets the sidewall, the bead can no longer creep upward at any place around the rim's circumference.
Adding too much thickness though and the tire bead will no longer be able to seat in the corner where the rim's inside floor meets the sidewalls.
With tape, you can achieve a very consistent thickness, unlike with epoxy.

At the time, I was trying to use up a supply of 27" Michelin Hi-Lite Tour tires I had been given, and these with Kevlar beads would reliably blow off at around 55-60psi. But with some rim taping, on these same, wide Araya singlewall alloy rims, I used up those tires which I regularly pumped up to 65psi.

More recently, it was my early 1970's Schwinn SuperSport's back rim that had this problem, and (with some difficulty) I was able to "carpet" the inside floor of the rim with trimmed Velox and raise the pressure at least 15psi.

noglider 

How much do you weigh? I have the same tires and have been slowly reducing the pressure, afraid of a pinch flat. I'm down to 70-front and 80-rear. I weigh 178 pounds, and my bike weighs about 35.

dddd

It will depend on rim width, but since 27" Paselas run true-to-size (i.e. are relatively huge) I would expect that a 178lb rider could use a rear 1-1/4" Pasela down to 70psi and even ride off road.
I run 1-1/4" gumwalls at 60psi on wide rims, I weight 155, and the actual width of the tires is only 29mm at most.
I do a lot of off-roading, even over rocks, and do not pinch-flat.
The Paselas, by comparison, measure a full 32mm wide on these rims, which would allow them to be run at an even lower pressure or would support a heavier rider at that pressure. My Miyata 610 is no lightweight, either.

Riding technique is important though when riding off road, since I could easily pinch flat my tires if I was careless about how I ride over larger, square-edged rocks.

ThermionicScott 

I'm (ideally) in the 160's and the bike (a 1970's Schwinn Suburban 5-speed) probably in the mid-30's. I first tried to pump one of them up to 75 psi, at which point, I had a slow-motion vision of the bead creeping off the rim and the tube emerging before we all went deaf -- likely user error since I'm used to hooked rims.

No pinch flats yet at this pressure, and if we needed more, I'd be interested in trying dddd's method.

non-fixie 

Until I joined this forum I didn't have a pump with pressure gauge. I just pumped my tires until they were REALLY HARD (checked with thumb) for 30 years or so. Never knew what the pressure was. Never had an issue either.

dddd

What brand and model of rims did you have?

The Bead Seat Diameter, i.e. the inside "floor diameter" of the rim that I mentioned before, is quite variable depending on the brand/model of rim, the manufacturing tolerances and even the spoke tension.
And like I said, a very small difference in this diameter can make a big difference in the ability of the bead to create enough slack at one point to where the bead lifts over the sidewall.

And, in the case of Schwinn's steel rims, the Bead Seat Diameter is so large that often the tire's bead won't lift completely out of the central trough during inflation, which can allow the slightly-crooked tireto then fail to lift it's bead evenly up onto the "ledge" where the BSD is measured, so the bead will develop slack at one spot during inflation and blow off.
I actually use alcohol as a bead lubricant when attempting to seat the beads while inflating a tire on a Schwinn steel rim, and am even tempted to drink the stuff when it takes several tries to get a straight-seated tire, as it often still does.
There is, however, no chance of the tire blowing off of one of these smooth-sidewalled rims once the bead is seated up on the ledge.

non-fixie 

I really don't remember. It was in the dark days when I thought bikes were just cheap transport devices, and I couldn't care less about rim brands and types. Hoewever, when I was a kid my dad did teach me how to mount a tire:

1. after mounting, put in a little air, just enough to fill the inner tube
2. push the valve in, make sure the tire sits neatly around the strengthened part of the inner tube around the valve
3. check that the inner tube is not caught anywhere between the tire and the rim: 360 degrees, and on both sides
3. bring up to desired pressure (in my case: rock hard)

I've always done that religiously (still do), and I'm pretty much convinced that it at least led to my tires always being seated correctly.

Renp

Wow, I fell asleep and woke up and this thread became a treasure trove of usefull information!
I like the idea of the tape inside that makes sense to me to help the tire seat properly while its being inflated.
it seems to be paselas for the tire is the consensus here, I'll give those a go as soon as I get my next paycheck. It's got some tires on it that look ok just a little old, I don't fully trust them, but they will do for the week.
Seriously thanks for the help everyone this was really helpfull.

noglider 

dddd, thanks. It seems I'll be safe riding with lower pressure. I just have to get over my fears.

Renp

Yeah thanks dddd you have been really helpfull to me as well

miamijim

Fair enough....there was a time I was super poor to!!!! Here's what you do, scrap together $40-50 dollars and buy yourself a used GMC Denali road bike, it'll be fairly new and have hook bead rims, The money you save on inner tubes can help to defray the cost of the bike. Throw your old bike on CraigsList to help as well.

Renp

would that bike have five gears so I can just put the new wheel on? And yeah I'm gonna sell my bike, from what I have read its got pretty good components for its time, I just can't figure out the brand of the frame.

StevePGN10

I have run both the Tourguard and non-Tourguard Pasela tires on hooked and straight sided rims. I gave up inflating to the pressure printed on the side of the tire a couple of years ago. I now inflate until when I put my full weight on the saddle, the tire flattens a little. This is my half baked method to get 15% drop. I ride every day and have never had a problem, with a tire blowing off or a flat. The gauge on the pump shows about 60psi front and 75 psi rear when I reach what I think is a 15% drop. I am heavier than you, 200lbs. You should be able to lower your pressure a little more, and enjoy a comfier ride.