No, its like using a torque wrench on your water pump bolts.

I admit, I only build 5-6 speed freewheel wheels, occasionally a Sturmy Archer, so maybe one is required for modern high dish wheels... Not my thing.

While we are on the topic, can anyone recommend a good source for max spoke tension for vintage rims of various models? Even if I owned a spoke tension meter (something I've considered but haven't been able to justify for the 2 or 3 wheelsets per year I might build), I'm not sure where I'd find specs for vintage rims? Would most box-shaped tubular rims be within the same general range?

I have only build 7 and 8 speed rear wheels, 126 and 130 mm OLD. Last week I replaced an 8 speed rearhub, with 130 mm OLD. No need for a tensionmeter.
Tensionmeters are nice to have tools, but not necessary.

If I'd build wheels for others, especially if I would get paid, I'd get a tensiometer, just for peace of mind.

I've found that plucking will get you close, and will be just fine for lighter riders. I weigh in at 225 and have found that even tension throughout will build me a set of wheels that need little attention afterwards. So I do a little of both, get it close by plucking then check my tensions, I then fine tune with the meter.

I just re-read the original post. As long as you're handing the wheels off to a someone else for final tension, truing and stress relief then you don't need a tension meter.

So all your doing is lacing them?

I just got one of the cheaper tensiometers. I believe it is a knockoff of the Park tool. I had no expectations of it giving absolute values, but just wanted it for baseline even tension as one approaches final truing. I found it quite useful for only $25 and a bit of peace of mind is instilled in the final job. I checked one set of wheels I had done previously, and found a couple of spokes either looser or tighter by a bit and corrected.
I thought that while I did things, why not go for evenness.

I am not real confident in my ear for plucking. Just now I have some newly laced up Weinmanns that I did just before getting the meter. I’m sure they would have ridden fine, but I redid them. Not much change, but I got the evenness a bit more consistent. I also liked it for final truing to see whether to tighten one side or loosen the other for adjustments. Peace of mind I think is nice, especially with the low cost of the tool.

Oh man, we ALMOST broke the 10-year barrier.

The OP's last post was over 9 years ago but you never know, he might still be lurking.

You know nipple washers and spoke head washers are not the same, right?

guilty, but does it matter?

I bought the Park a couple of years ago after a buddy who builds wheels for a living loaned me his cheapie (a Park). Once I got used to using it, I found that it helped me visualize what is going on around the wheel; sort of a topography of tension. I rebuilt a bunch of old wheels recently, swapping rims, etc, and I think they're nice for figuring out what is going on with less-than-perfect, used parts. It also helped me accept that even tension does not always equal true, which is a bit of a mind-f***. As with all aspects of repair and maintenance, it comes down to enjoying your own approach, and if you're the sort of person who likes reading gauges, they're a real treat.

I know this is an old thread, but still kinda relevant. I have built maybe 2 dozen sets of wheels over the last 30 years, so I am by no means an expert. I learned by measuring (counting) threads and "feel" Then I got a cheapo tensiometer about 5 years ago, and probably over-rely on it.

Mine looks just like a TM-1 but is branded "ZTTO" and is black + red. I think it cost around $10 or $12 on Amazon. Cheaper if you want to go the Aliexpress route.