So last year I picked up a Miyata 912 locally. It was in decent but not great shape. After a couple of rides I found out the pedal threads on the drive side crank were stripped. Didn't have a ton of money to spend so I had the LBS put on an el cheapo crank (it actually had the plastic tooth protector ring on it. It fell off...) so I could at least ride it.

So now I have some money to spend on the bike and am planning to put on new tires, cables, seat and replace that eyesore crank. I am willing to spend $150 or so on a crank and don't care if its new or an Ebay find. Its all Shimano now but the crank that was on it was campy. Stick with Shimano? Campy? Sram? IF so, am I better off with a new lower quality component or used but higher end? Or does it not really mater in the long run.

The brake adjusters are stripped also but they still work, so in the future I'll be replacing those as well. I will want to make sure it matches the new crank brand-wise, I'm just anal about stuff like that though I'm sure it doesn't matter. So that is a consideration as well

So, with that in mind I'll take any advice your willing to give.

i like two chainwheels in the 42/52t size on my bikes. it allows simple shifting, looks good and offers familiarity. this chainring/gearing decision will drive your purchasing choice. concerning look and composition, id take a look at the miyata catalog for that year and buy something that fits the look of the frame and derailleurs. if they're shimano, go with a light aluminum japanese crank (shimano or sugino) of that vintage.

i wouldn't spend more than $50 on the arms and $100 total for a used set (or used with nos rings). you can sometimes go real cheap (less than $50 for everything) and do a little cleaning/polishing with oven off and auto quality sandpaper. use a metal file between chainring teeth to renew them.

often, if you like the look of your components, it rubs off in the way you ride and care for your bike.

i very seldom use my brake adjusters to move the pad to/from the rim. they so seldom need adjusting, and it's easy to untighten the cable anchor and readjust cable length. if adjusting cable length continues to be a problem, you may try completely removing the calipers and overhauling them.

Another question I have is about the width of the bottom bracket. DO they vary? I assume so as when the LBS put on the new crank he tried a few bb's to get the width right. If I get one off of ebay and it comes with a bb, how do I know that the width is correct? DO I have to stay with a square taper or can I use one with octalink or some other system for joining the cranks?

Research the crankset you are buying on Sheldon Brown. He lists many of the bb spindle lengths for various cranks.

How do you know FOR SURE bb is right? Its ebay, so you don't. What if seller puts the wrong length bb with the crankset? Suppose seller mixed and matched random parts out of their bin? It happens. Of course, ebay has policies in place to protect the buyer. As long as you mount it shortly after buying it, you should be covered.

Cranks are designed for a specific length bb, and its not bike specific. So as long as the seller includes the right bb, you will be fine.

BB design is also crank specific, I've used square tape, Octalink, external bb, etc., all on the same bike (different cranks).

I like stuff that matches, but on several of my bikes, the cranks do not match. I think they look just fine.


Superbe Pro bike, but it has Campy calipers, and the crankset is not Superbe Pro either. It does have Superbe Pro hubs, shift levers, and derailleurs.




Or this:

Ultegra components, modern Shimano Hollowtech (not Ultegra) compact crankset. I've since rebuilt it with Dura Ace components, still using same crankset.

Post a pic of your bike. Then we can recommend some stuff